Uberoo

Not all EA engines are bad. I love the EA81.Its simple,reliable, durable, and takes well to supercharging.The problem is the boat anchor of an engine the EA82. Negligible power increase over an EA81 and piss poor reliability.The EA82 is prone to timing belt failure and headgasket failure while the EA81 and EJ is NOT.On an ea81 or EJ the headgasket rarely blows unless it was overheated.While the EJ has a timing belt, it works for at least 100K miles.The EA82 timing setup with its complexity and duel belts is very failure prone rarely living past 25K on a good day.The only good thing about an EA82 is its simple and robust SPFI system that can be easily adapted to an EA81.One of the biggest reasons I like the EJ series is their overabundance of power while still having excellent reliability. With an EJ engine passing or go up hills no longer is a floor it,wind the hell out of the little engine, and pray you have enough room to complete the maneuver kind of ordeal.Every time I tried to go up even the littlest of hills/mountains I would need to wind the EA out up past 4K to even attempt to stay with traffic.With an EJ22 I can keep it in a higher gear and just drive up those hills.I live in a town built on the side of hill,I have been here for 10 years and I have yet to find a spot I can park my car without it rolling away in neutral.Winding the piss out of engine everyday just to stay within a stones throw of traffic gets old fast. With that being said an EA81 with a weber carb is hard to beat for reliability.An EJ trails slightly because while its ignition system is completely electronic and has no moving parts to wear out, it has a timing belt that isn't as reliable as pushrods.Also some of those sensors may eventually fail and when that happens they arn't cheap. as for rebuilding an EA82, rebuild it to stock specs.If the rebuild process involves getting more power out the engine just swap in an EJ and be done as far as power and reliability goes.EA81 stuff can take the mods just you will pay alot to play.

By my rough calculations from looking at each graph EA82 = .5*79 hp*3400 RPM = 134000 hp*rpm EJ22 = .5*110 hp*3800 RPM + .5*110 hp*1000 RPM = 264000 hp*rpm which is roughly 2x as much as EA82,makes sense because an EJ22 IS 2X more powerful than a EA82.

There Fixed it for you BTW the EJ18 makes 108 HP at 6000 RPM and 110 Ft/Lbs at 3200 RPM. with that being said even though they both appear to be peaky based on the their numbers BOTH an EJ18 and a EJ22 have more area under their respective horsepower and torque curves than a EA82 could ever hope to achieve.An EJ22 swap gives enough torque that you can idle up something that with an EA would be a full throttle attack,while still having an overabundance of power on tap should the need arise. Have you ever even driven a legacy or impreza?Or better yet an EJ swapped EA vehicle?There is no comparison between a EA82 and a EJ18/22.The EJ22 pushing around the big heavy legacy is impressive enough, it swapped into a much lighter vehicle is amazing.If it was peaky do you think people would swap their EA81/82s for EJs? Here is the dyno of a STOCK EA82 turbo at the wheels,so its roughly the same as an EA82 at the crank While here is a stock dyno of a phase 2 EJ22 at the wheels(I tried to find one for phase one but no luck) So which one have more area under the curve?If you don't know the engine with the area under its horsepower and torque curves is the most powerful/fastest all else being equal.

Spending all that time and effort on an Ea82T that will make 140-150 HP and last for 50K miles isnt worth it when a BONE STOCK naturally aspirated EJ22 makes 140 HP and will live for a good 250-300K makes zero sense what so ever.Heck a frankenmotor will make 160-180 HP without the complexity of a turbo.If you must have a turbo get a EJ205 and be done with it.The EA82T was not designed for high power.Nothing in the engine is robust enough to handle the pressure.Say you dump 5 grand into built internals it will still blown up because the block is crap.EA81s and Ea82/Ts have a 1/2" coolant crossover cast into the block.An EJ has a 1 1/2" coolant crossover pipe.While the small crossover is good at 70 HP it starts to fall short at 100 HP.So a EA82T will never run cool at least not without a ton of mods and custom fabrication work,On top of that the block isn't strong enough to sustained power.Just because it HAS a turbo DOES NOT make it a WRX. Look at volvo turbos from the 80's, they have a 2.0 iron block inline 4 and the make something like 150 HP.Getting them to 200+ HP takes alot of work,and volvos are known for having super stout engines.The normal EA82 can't cope with the heat generated (due to that small coolant crossover) and you expect the additional heat and stress from a turbo to somehow make that better?

The pan wasn't dented much, other than a 1/2" deep dent from when pull and save punched a hole in the pan to drain the oil(why can't they just unbolt the drain..)So how do I check those screws on the back of the pump?I should make sure this new engine is ready before I stuff it in the car.

That engine was in the car for a year and a half.It came from a car with only 150K on it.However I bet I only put about 5-10K miles of hard life and abuse on it.I am worried because the "new" engine has 225K. Even still the oil pressure on that engine was never more than 65 PSI cold~45 warmed up... I am trying to make this engine last because I have killed almost as many engines as CV axles. 3 EA81s ,1 Ea82,2 EJ22s. Most due to water/debris ingestion,a couple massive overheats,and finally this one due to oil issues.Those are just the ones that died after an offroad outing.Total engine failures adds three more EA81's and two more EJ22, plus a couple of EF12s(justy) engines for good measure.All of these over the roughly 8 years that Ive been into subarus.

The EJ22 in my offroader ate itself.It seems it couldn't take bouncing off the rev limiter for 4 minutes in mud.It still runs but has no oil pressure and has rod knock. Fortunately I have another engine I can put in.Looking at the specs of the stock oil pump, tells me that the stock oil pump is only good for 50ish PSI which is alittle low for bouncing off the rev limiter at 6250 RPM if following the 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM rule.Is there a way to increase the operating pressure of the stock pump 10 or so PSI? Thanks in advance.

Why was a thread about building a non turbo engine put in turbo tech?

I don't understand how a small heater core size radiator could be put on the turbo return.For one even though not alot of fluid actually flows out the return while its running,It has to be as free flowing as possible-straight down into the oil pan with minimal bends, otherwise oil would back up into the turbo and leak into either the exhaust or intake.If what your are describing is true I bet that your friend has blue smoke out of the exhaust pipe on decel,maybe even a bit on hard acceleration.Not to mention oil consumption issues. On the other hand an oil cooler is almost mandatory on turbocharged engines.An oil cooler would even help an EA82T run cooler.

So not only were you representing the older subi crowd, you were the only one that was lifted.

An EA82 has two timing belts,as long as the passenger side breaks the distributor will still provide spark and the engine will "run",just on two cylinders. also what moron would put an EA82 in an airplane when EA81's and EJ22's are plentiful?

That can be a bad thing and a good thing.Wet sand will certainly be firmer,however it will also be stickier and will stick everywhere.When it dries it will have to knocked off by a rubber mallot or LOTS of high pressure water.Or to put it another way, when its wet it has the consistency of wet cement,when dry it more or less is cement.I learned this when I when wheeling at place that the soil was very sandy and silty...

As has been said you can make and install a 2" lift for about $40 and a days worth of your time.

Is there any chance I could crash at somebodies house on the first of August?Right now its looking like I have enough funds for fuel and the discovery pass and even that is stretching it kinda tight.Other than that I guess I could pull into Burnett on the 1st around 8 PM and just sleep in the truck and wait for everyone to roll past in the morning.

Dont park facing uphill either.

Its sounding like something is blocking airflow out of the engine bay at speed.Air gets trapped under the hood,and air wont flow through the radiator.Have you messed with any of the factory aerodynamic parts on the front of the car?Even something as simple as opening up the grill for more flow can hamper high speed cooling.Are there any loose parts on the front end that may be flapping in the wind and blocking airflow?

Find a new to you subaru donor engine if you were turning any sort of RPM when it broke. The engine is fubar-dented pistons,bent valves,bent connecting rods,cracked head... for something like that maybe run a phase one EJ22 90-94 because while it is down 15 HP it will not kill itself if the timing belt gets knocked off.

You guys are making this way to tough.OP doesn't need to replace axle just reboot the inner end. *Jack up car so front wheels are off the ground,put jackstands under rocker panels behind front tires *use 3/16 pin punch+hammer to knock out roll pin near the transmission of the CV-always hammer out the roll pin from the DIVOT on the Cv axle cup *If CV axle will slid on splined shaft from transmission,skip to next step.If not cuss at it,hit it with a hammer,spray penetrating fluid on the splines,heat the axle cup with a torch,repeat until CV axles cup moves freely on splines. *Turn steering wheel to full lock,If lucky there will be enough room to slide CV axles off splines,If not remove the bolt/nut that hold the lower control arm to the crossmember. *Tear rest of CV boot,and wipe out grease with rag/shop towels,old t shirt.Once clean you will see a circlip in the inner lip of the CV axle cup.Use a screw driver to remove clip.Cv axle cup should come free. *remove remainder of CV boot from axle and CV cup. *remove circlip that holds CV balls/retainer to axle shaft *install boot onto shaft,reinstall CV balls/retainer +circlip,Install axle shaft into CV cup,reinstall circlip that locks the CV cup to the shaft,fill the boot with grease,install boot on CV cup,use whatever to hole CV boot to various parts *Installation is reverse of removal.

No.I noticed the suspension binding up without the axles or shocks bolted on.

swapping in a 5 speed into an EA81 IS like an hour job.The most time consuming part is clearancing the bellhousing for the EA82 flywheel.

when I go to the junkyard and I need drivetrain parts I get them from autotragics or wrecked cars.There is a good chance that a bad automatic put the car in the junkyard and thus the engine is still good.Same with wrecked cars because my theory was that the car was running well enough to at least get into an accident.

The legacy is a Fail Wheel Drive autotragic in colorado, DUR!

Do a full tune up and drive the leqacy before you pull its engine out by its roots That way its alot easier to diagnose problems relating to the swap.Its nice to know that the engine was working perfectly BEFORE the swap,because when you install the harness one wire wont get connected in the the final stages and it wont run right if at all.. And if its all the same to you it can be kinda fun stripping down a harness by yourself.My first EJ swap I paid a member on here to strip it down.The next harness I stripped down after reading up on it.Although for a first timer it is more convenient to send the harness to somebody and get it back stripped down with labels on all the wires as to where they go.If however you want to try it on your own myself as well other members could walk you through the process. If you decide to strip the harness by yourself get ahold of me before you pull it from the car and I can give you some pointers that will make the process easier. I am not trying to take business from Scott,Scott is a great guy who is honest and does good work. I am just telling you there are other options

Could you please post some pics of the connector on the wiring harness?The resolution isn't high enough to zoom in that far. Although its looking like I need to move two wires to different pins. the black wire on the 82 connector needs to move into the empty space and the red/yellow needs to move into the space that the black wire is.Thats what I am thinking right now. Those wires arn't entiery correct.The turn signal works but I only have low beams,and they turn off when I try the high beams..

Sad Face