Uberoo

take a hole saw and swiss cheese the aluminum panel supports on the front. Do you run a windshield washer ?If you do you could mount the reservoir in the back. Run aluminum pulleys on the crank,alternator,etc. Are there any pieces in the front framework that could be made lighter by drilling some holes or redesigning the tube routeing? With your buggy its hard to add weight to the back because there isnt a back end. I dunno relocate your seat and the controls further back?

that lighting setup must have cost more than your car! HIDs, are like the stuff of legend, with light so bright it is legendary...

Backpressure is a MYTH! Its all about exhaust VELOCITY not pressure. If the pipe is too big the exhaust slows down and cools then the engine must work to force it out.The Inverse of that is that smaller pipe the exhaust flows fast and hot but it reaches a choke point where it wont flow any more air/exhaust CFM and top end suffers due to the motor having to work to push the exhaust out. Besides you already have enough of a restriction in the exhaust from the turbo itself. Would you still smell the exhaust if it exited at the top of the windshield rather than at the back of the "cab"? Ideal airflow speed in a pipe is 451.2 ft/s 2" ID pipe flows 590 CFM at 451.2 ft/s 2.25" ID pipe flows 747 CFM at 451.2 ft/s 2.5" ID pipe flows 922 CFM at 451.2 ft/s 2.75" ID pipe flows 1116 CFM at 451.2 ft/s 3" ID pipe flows 1328 CFM at 451.2 ft/s a 2.5L engine spinning at a maximum RPM of 7000 RPM with a VE of 125% flows 380 CFM,VE at 200% flows 618 CFM, and at 300% VE it flows 927 CFM. Although I highly doubt your VE is that high at full boost. My 310 HP cummins turbo diesel has a whopping 60% VE at max horsepower even though its boosting at 35 PSI to get there. You might save some weight by going with a 2.5" exhaust after the the firewall.You will be able to save even more if you can run it up the windshield rather than out back,but I don't know if you would still get "exhausted".Or just dump it out the side of the fender...

True but the additional drag wont cause the water to not flow.It might slow down the flown but that will be cancelled out by the extra metal tube acting as a heat sink-assuming that the OP does use metal tube for as much of the system as possible.In a closed system in reality when ever water pump impeller turns it will force water through the rest of the system assuming there is no air to compress.Which makes bleeding the system much more important than worrying about the effect of extra drag on the system or adding a booster pump

So if your worried about weight why have the hood and front fenders? Or the 3" pipe running all the way to the back .None of those things make it faster,stronger, or safer. Or are they required for racing?

Nice car however with that few miles the rubber bits on the car might be getting a bit dry rotted.Make sure to check all hoses,belts, and seals before taking it on its maiden voyage.Sometimes having little miles is almost as bad as having tons of miles.

What do yo mean "overcompensate" for the lack of sway bar?On just about any independant suspension vehicle removing the sway bar allows better turn in with less understeer on gravel/dirt because it allows both tires to grab traction.Overcompensate for a welded rear diff sure,I just don't get the issue without a sway bar.If removing the swaybar made it unstable on gravel then you have worn suspension parts. if removing the swaybar was bad how come so few rally teams run them?

find a nice clean west coast one to ease the pain.

does it work on engines?If so I'll take a crate!

An extra pump is a non issue.Your pumping water through a tube,it has no choice but to flow through the tube.Most important is to have a bleeder at the radiator and at the highest place on the engine.Not totally necessary but easier to fully bleed the system.

how do you bust a DOJ and have it work after it cools down?every single DOJ ive broken scattered its parts all over the road.

Think of the bright side, after all this time its not something major that gives out.Like for instance some cars had bio degradable wiring harnesses or were just wired incorrectly. I owned a 93 volvo 240 that everything would still work even if all of the fuses were pulled. A friend had an 83 VW that he had to turn the left blinker on for it to start every morning. However with that being said subaru plastic from the 80's-90's did degrade abit more than everyone elses plastic in the same time frame.One of the reasons I put my EJ22 ECU in an ammo box under the hood rather than in the dash was that I knew the subaru plastic would crumple if I looked at it funny (car is an 81) and my dash was still pristine.. I owned a 74 dodge colt(mitsubishi) and its interior was about on par with 80's subarus in terms of degradation.I had an 82 nissan/datsun 200SX and its interior was pretty good short of it needing a new headliner and the fake wood trim was peeling. the difference is that the subaru still runs and drives.The colt was a demolition derby car,and the 200sx ate its ENGINE at 100K. so would you rather have crap plastic but runner/driver or good plastic but non functional car?

single wire alts suck for low speed charging.If your idling with a single wire alt with your lights on the car will go flat because a single wire alt doesn't start charging until 1500-2000 rpm.

I'm guessing it took about a day.I didn't notice it leaking before hand.The the way to go wheeling I thought I smelt it burning but I didn't see anything,then it locked up on the return trip home after playing the whole day.I don't have any idea how much oil was it to start with though.The last time I checked the oil in the rear diff was when I welded the diff and stuck it under there a year ago.

Recently the rear diff on my offroader ran out of oil and locked up on a gravel road.The right side seal leaked without my knowledge. After getting it home and cooled down I noticed that I can still spin the the rear diff without too much effort.So I am wondering if I can just replace that seal and fill it full of oil again or if I would be better off getting a new diff from the junkyard and welding the spiders together and replacing the one thats in there currently. If it matters the rear diff is a 4.11 ratio R160 from an early automatic legacy,

I tried that already and couldn't get it to come out any measurable difference. The dip stick tube angles in towards the oil pan but along the top it is vertical to pass behind the timing setup.Do you know if the tube itself has to be rotated at some angle to clear everything? or at least come out enough to replace the O ring?

I have just discovered that the O ring on the dipstick of my 91 EJ22 is leaking.Can the O ring be replaced without dropping the oil pan or any other major disassembly?Thanks in advance.

How about this? Or this? thats with 31" tires and 8" of lift.

The water seems to have come from a PCV hose.The PCV Tee seems to be the culprit.It broke off the intake tube along time ago so it was taped up with a bunch of electrical tape.It seems getting wet made the tape not seal anymore. the dipstick seal is also suspect because after I removed my skidplate it showed signs of leaking. I drained the oil out and will run it a few times through my centrifuge I use to make fuel for diesel,should remove the water nicely.It just might take some time because I drained about 5 quarts of cement colored "oil" out..

So I checked the compression and I'm not sure what to think. 1= 160 PSI 2= 180 PSI 3= 120 PSI 4= 175 PSI the right bank is lowest so does that point toward a headgasket? the engine is a phase one EJ22 with 150K ISH miles. this is with the engine cold.

So I went wheeling today with one of my friends and his wife. ME: 81 subaru hatch,EJ22,T-case,welded rear diff 8" lift and 31x10.5x15 sucky mud tires as you will see. Friend: 90's ford F150, 300 6 and manual,6" lift, welded rear diff, brand NEW 37" super swampers From here on out its all mudding because that is mostly all thats around here,that and trail riding, but the trails get graded down when they start becoming fun.. I managed to get some pics and even a couple of videos,Mostly of trouble spots. Here is a video of the first hole we found today.Those with keen memories may notice it is the same hole a couple of years ago that I blew up reverse with my old EA81 wagon..I Wanted to try it so I did.I started out in RWD then switched to 4wd when I realized how slick it was. then my buddy went through in 2wd then to really show me how much my tires suck his wife went through in 4wd. Next up is a hole that didn't think was very deep so I drove in and promptly got high centered. after getting pulled out I had another go at it. It looks like I got out but I didn't.I didn't have enough momentum traction to get out the hole so I backed up and got high centered again where i got stuck the first time. Next up is a very large hole.I tried to stay towards one of the edges but I got sucked right into the deep center. My buddy shot a short video then pressed the shutter button so this next video is broken up into two videos, but two short clips of trying the center,and the far side.. then I tried the center and got very far so I tried the left... my friend just to make a mockery of me drove right through it. sorry about the video quality,they were good quality,then I uploaded them and they went to spit.I even selected keep images in highest quality. Some of the images shown have a large red piece of equipment in the background.I have no idea how or why it was left there.My guess is the engine went T.U. either way I feel sorry for the operator.It has been there for the better part of this year.Sadly for the operator some person or persons vandalized it some time ago so the thing is pretty beat up.Right now its far to wet up there to even think about getting a semi up there to haul it back out,another month and it should be possible.I just hope that it wont be too much to fix because a small operator who most likely owns that,the equipment is their livelyhood.It would be a shame if it was destroyed beyond repair due to a few stupid people.I'm not sure why its so hard for people NOT to mess up other peoples stuff-disabled vehicles,gates,fences,etc.Just gives the rest of us bad names. sermon over. As for a damage report: shortly after that last hole shown my engine started acting sick.It was hard to start,down on power, and wouldn't idle so we towed it home. Along the way my rear diff locked up on a steep and narrow gravel road.So we pulled the rear axles from the diff and got the car safely down to the bottom of the hill.After that I got a my truck and trailer and was able to limp the car onto the trailer in FWD.A couple issues with the trailer not with standing and I got home around 9 PM. My buddies truck lost 1st and 2nd because the fork in the transmission broke,but it was going out anyway. I got the my car unloaded and cleaned this morning and the engine seems to run fine.water must have gotten into the electronics...I will still pull the plugs and do a compression check just to be sure.I did however notice a bunch of water in the oil, not coolant though.

The idea behind the coke/flour/oatmeal is to give it just a little bit more life when you can't fix it.IE when you blow your clutch wheeling or rallying that you can still get home or finish the rally.

vegablade are you serious?

poor subaru.

Vegablade some coke and oatmeal dumped in the clutch does wonders.