Uberoo

I have a 93 EJ22 in my offroader. One thing that has always bugged me is the cast iron alternator mount.So I was wondering if another subaru had an aluminum mount?Same goes for any other bracket on the engine that has an aluminum counterpart.Right now I am trying to remove as much weight from the front end as possible.Aluminum alternator pulley would be cool too.

Heres some dirty pics of it.

I have pics of the various rigs parked if that works for you. the ford on 31's went home pretty early on the day because it kept getting stuck.So did a chevy on 44's that the 4wd worked iffy.. I have FWD springs in the front because they softened up the ride and allowed it to flex more,but after the EJ22 I have noticeable negative camber.So I will try putting in some 4wd springs and see if that helps any.That might be why it did so well on the hill climb,the hill was steep enough and I was on the throttle enough that maybe the weight shifted more toward the middle and balanced things out. The car is lifted 8" all around so it still has the subaru rake,and with the front end sitting low its got a lot of rake. this is on flat ground.

If the goal is to remove the crank pulley why not put a socket and a breaker bar on the nut and position the breaker bar to its on a "framerail" in the direction the engine spins,and then bump the starter.

Can anyone measure the length and width of their gas tank please?I have to cut out all of the rear "frame rails" to replace them with newer stronger stuff because my rear recovery points/bumper mounts basically got ripped out of the car.

I went wheeling yesterday with a bunch of different vehicles in the snow up in mountains.Sadly I teneded to stay at the end of the pack so action shot opportunities were pretty few and far in between. I got some picks of the group when we all went and stopped for lunch but nothing other than that.The only "action" shot was of a heep cherokee on 30's pulling out a stuck stock ford truck on 31's. I am pleased to say that the subaru did awesome.There was this hill that was about 1/8 mile in length that a few of the vehicles in our group couldn't make it up.either they sunk in and got bogged down or they didn't have the horsepower to keep the tires spinning all the way up it.The only things that made it in our group were running big wide tires aired down to the teens(I aired the tires down from 15 psi highway to 8 psi in the front and 4-5 in the back).At one point the stock cherokee on bald 30" super swampers tried it and failed,so they backed down and said they wanted to see the subaru do it.I was in hi range on the subaru box and 4lo on the nissan box and I just SPRINTED up the hill.The subaru didn't sink in the snow at all and I had no shortage of power so I blitzed up the hill at the top of 2nd gear at 30-35 mph(according to them,I wasn't paying any attention to the instrument cluster).I showed them all how its done.That was the only time I wished someone was there to videotape that because it was awesome and very fun. anyway toward the end of day the snow got alot softer,and the front end started to sink in alot more.Once that frontend got in snow just a little too deep I would be stuck,by contrast I could back into snow drifts much bigger that what would stop the front and it would do just fine.In mud I don't normally have that much insight into how everything is working.So it seemed to me that the light rear of the subaru was pushing the heavy front around,when that front end encountered to much resistance the rears couldn't supply any more traction so they just spun. So I am wondering what I can do to improve the front end's grip?The rear is welded,but the tires back there are a bit worn down,while the front tires have lots of tread left even if the voids are a little close together for mud(I might open up the voids on one of the tires with a grinder or something).As far as weight goes,everything is on the front-the engine,transmission,and transfer case all have a forward weight bias.the radiator and battery,and the ecu box are all up front.The rear of the hatch has just about nothing.The rear seat and carpeting is all gone.The spare tire is back there but I haven't mounted it yet.I don't want to add weight just for sake of adding weight,I would rather remove weight from the front.So I was thinking of relocating the battery to the back,and mounting the spare tire at an angle so the battery sits under the front of it.Then I have to cut out and weld in new rear tow points because mine got ripped out.So that will add a bit of weight to rear,I am thinking of getting a gallon sized wiper fluid reservour and mounting it on the passenger side behind the seat.Any other ideas for improving front end grip or at lease making it so the front and rear loose grip at about the same time?

this thread started as a discussion of subarus vs suzuki SIDEKICKS,yet somehow it migrated to the much more capable suzuki SAMURAI.The sidekick is a mini mall crawler.it has IFS and a solid rear axle.While the samurai has solid axles front and rear,a microscopic wheelbase,and weighs about as much as a feather. this is a sidekick http://image.motortrend.com/f/features/consumer/1110_celebrity_drive_travel_channel_host_don_wildman/35462272/1991-Suzuki-Sidekick-side.JPG.jpg this is a samurai http://flipacars.com/pics/Suzuki/suzuki-samurai-13-03.jpg try not to get them mixed up,a samurai is a very capable offroader,a sidekick is very similar to our subaru's in that it doesn't get the respect it deserves until it has a chance to prove its worth.

mods please delete this post.

Has anyone put in the gas tank from a EA81 wagon into a hatchback?My offroader started life as a 81 DL hatchback,so it was FWD so it already has the larger FWD hatch gas tank.Problem is I am missing the extra capacity of the wagon tank,the fuel gauge moves a little faster than I would like.So I am wondering if its possible to put a EA81 wagon (FWD or 4wd) tank into the stock mounting location on a hatchback. Also if I was to say find a tank from an 84,would the sending unit work with my 81 DL's gauge?

Here's some pics of mine during the intermission of today's wheeling trip. 81 Subaru DL Hatchback 8" lift EJ22 ammo can ECU box in spare tire area snorkel 5 Speed DR EA82 front suspension legacy rear inner DOJ's on stock rear axle shafts rear disk brakes divorced nissan transfercase 4.11 gears front and rear,rear is welded 31x10.50x15 mud tires redrilled rims

how do you see?

I would like to add that I did demo derby a FWD car with powersteering. The diff was behind a cover so I welded it up. Worked GREAT on loose dirt until the first time I turned sharp under power at which point it promptly blew the inner CV joint into about 10 pieces. only found 3..For that car exploding cv's is quite rare,doesnt normally happen until you are making 3X stock power.

here is some pics of my setup: FRONT DIFF TRANSFER CASE I have 8" of lift and as you can see space is tight under there.Hope that helps.

I still have the EA81 front crossmember It the steering wheel WILL NOT PHYSICALLY turn without powersteering.I had a friend help me push the car when I didn't have the motor running.He can bench press a EA81 and he couldn't turn the steering wheel. I am just saying this because some hard pack dirt is just as grippy as pavement.

I will take some pics in the morning before I leave for spocompton. got to get all sorts of neat stuff at pull and save, rear disk brake assembly for 88-91 isuzu trooper,legacy ABS Master cylinder,EA81 rear control arms,shift knob for L series datsun transmission,door hinges/latches for datsun 620,couple of subaru/datsun window cranks.. so mcbrat, any other pictars of that incident?

Power Steering is a 90000% prerequisite. On my T cased offroader I tried to weld the front diff.I PHYSICALLY COULD NOT TURN THE STEERING WHEEL on my driveway.To go from my driveway to the street required a 20 point turn. power steering on the other hand might allow you to actually turn the tires.

The subaru starter isnt that big, but with how its mounted the EJ22 can't snuggle up to the firewall very well.

On a V8 the starter on them is a HUGE chunk of metal,so a popular option is a mini starter which uses gearing rather than brute force to turn the engine over.Right now I am contemplating putting a subaru EJ22 into a 83 Mazda RX7. One thing I am noticing is that the starter would stick a bit into the firewall.So I am wondering if there is a "mini" starter for a subaru. Something that is smaller and most importantly shorter to remove the need to cut the firewall,because I think where the starter would need to go holds the pedal box/and or heater core.

After getting everything bled I think I need to get a new MC with at least 13/16 or better.The 3/4" seems to bottom when I get about 5/8 braking effort.A full on "panic stop" stops the car like I am just using the handbrake.Which is less than stellar with 4 wheel disk brakes. not sure why rock auto sent a 3/4" instead of 13/16"..

yep what he said!

give me about an hour to charge my camera.

it normally doesn't snow IN lewiston because lewiston is in a valley so there ends up with a temp inversion.hot air near the ground and cold air on top.With that being said the last time it snowed here I wrote messages on the hood of my cars on the street.on my 83 RX7 I wrote "BRR",the subaru I wrote "YA!!!"

Ive done burn outs on dry pavement with my EJ22 powered Hatch.I'm running 4.11 gears,31" tires,the rear diff is welded solid.Power from the engine goes through a DR 5 speed to a nissan transfercase. Haven't blown it yet knock on wood.My nissan case does howl a bit because it leaks so it might be a little low at times.. So they are not that weak,and for roughly $70 I can replace the transmission should it fail. I can take pics of the front end if you would like, though its fairly simple.I am running EA82 suspension attached to the EA81 crossmember. My front diff mounts on the crossmember in the center.I have an 8" lift and space is TIGHT around the diff but it all fits.The bottom of the DR 5 speed is roughly 2 3/8" above the diff which is exactly where I run my Y pipe.

So what is a larger MC that will fit?Arn't 4x4 EA81 and EA82 MC's 13/16?

So I am replacing my brake master cylinder on my 81 hatch offroader. No matter how I tried to bleed the brakes I would always loose my brakes after a short while. The last time I bled the brakes before something clicked in my head I managed to get 3 outta 4 brakes working at least for a little bit then back to nothing.So anyway I take out the old one with fluid in the reservoirs still and press in the plunger.Nothing comes out of the "F" port on the MC but fluid squirts out of the "R" port.The car has a diagonal split as I am sure you all are aware of. LF to RR kinda thing.So how exactly did I get 3/4 brakes working when only 2/4 should have worked at all? I'm just a bit stumped on this.If it makes any difference It was one of the rear brakes that didn't work. also my car originally came with a 13/16 MC and rear drums.My front brakes were leaking from the handbrake assembly so I replaced those and did the rear disk conversion at the same.It is worth noting that I have EA82 front suspension/brakes on my 81.My question is the replacement MC is 3/4" bore with the bleed screws on opposite sides as the old one.No big deal.I am just wondering how that smaller MC will affect braking.I know that smaller MC's increase line pressure at the expense of needing more travel to displace a similar amount of fluid, so how will that work with the EA82 vented rotors up front and disks in the back.