Uberoo

its all good until the snow you are pushing with the front bumper starts coming over the hood.

drilled rim: often times the drilled area of the steel wheel will be a fairly strong spot, usually 1/4" steel or better.Downside: looks bad, tire shops may not mount tires,can only use steel wheels. Drilled hub: looks nicer, can use aluminum wheels. Downside: the extra holes are drilled where the hub is weakest due to the thin metal but the addition of the two more studs negates that loss of strength. Drilling the rim means drilling something cheap and available so if you eff it up its not bad.Not to mention has less of a chance to mess it up anyway.Good Hubs can get a bit scarce sometimes.

the downside is that IF your hub strips out you need a new hub and machine shop time to get you going again.

yea LSx is the new 350 chevy. also power potential becomes kind of a moot point anyway.Depending on the type of driving you do 100-200 HP per driving wheel is just asking to become a tire shops preferred customer if you try to use all that power. 100 being for gravel and 200 for pavement.Assuming that you are interested in things other than going fast in a straight line.

swap in a dual range transmission.Then you can still get home.If the rear is welded you can get home with one axle working...

the porsche has better tires and more horsepower.If you want to make it fair at least put some sticky tires on the BRZ.The tires are crap so you can have some fun with the BRZ triplets at slowish speeds..

so maybe if you have to money to buy one and your coming from purely FWD cars you should buy a cheap RWD car to play around with.Although some people just can't be helped my first RWD car was a volvo 240 wagon and it felt really natural to slide it around.On the test drive I actually went a bit tail out on a gravel road at slowish(20-30 MPH compared to my normal 60 ) just to see how it was..

I actually started feeling sick watching the video of the 2jz into an FR-S.All of the design work by the subaru engineers wasted.

I have hydrolocked 3 engines that had the airbox up where the spare tire sits. My airbox is up at the top of the car but it still isnt 100% leakproof. The space where the spare tire used to sit is now filled with an ammo box holding my ECU and relays and stuff.I used cut vacuum lines to line the edges of the holes for the wires than I filled them in with expanding foam and so far it seems to be working.

cyfun how are you sealing your intake where the silicone coupler slips INTO the PVC? On my own snorkel setup joints like that are a constant source of leaks.I redesigned the snorkel to remove some of those but still some remain...

Jebus,10K! that would be wild in a mud hole.

I am just not sure because the bearings and seals run about 90-110 a side,compared to $13 a control arm from pull and save.

So the rear wheel bearings in my EA81 offroader are SHOT.As in the first or second time I went offroad with the car that the rear suspension came off they were making noise,that was two and a half years ago.Anyway I went offroading today and the noise and vibrations from the rear on the highway was deafening,and slightly scary.So I figured it might be time to change them.However after seeing how much those solid gold/platinum impregnated bearings run I was just wondering if from now on it would just be better to run to the junkyard and see if I can find a car with better bearings and just swap the control arm rather than actually changing the bearings.I dunno how hard is it to find EA81's in the junkyard that don't have totally shot rear bearings after 30 years?

let me put it to you this way.I am saddened that the EJ22 in my offroader the ECU cuts the fun at 6500.Mainly because with the ea81 that was in there I shifted out of 1st and 2nd when the valves started floating...

Could always go with links with johnny joints.They don't have quite the flex as heims but they also don't rattle and clank.Expensive though.

So what exactly was wrong on the hatch that made it horrible car offroad other than the broken axles?What has been fixed by going to the ea82 body style? Granted right now most of my EA81's suspension is EA82 or newer,but what was so wrong with it?

compared to so much understeer when braking that it will physically not TURN at all?Let off the brakes and it will turn just fine.. Granted I would much prefer it to stop straight and true each time without out inducing over or understeer,but sometimes that isnt the case..

oversteer while braking is fun,compared to understeer under braking anyway.

compare to this 1980 MB 240.

As far as the handbrake goes.It would be great to have one in the car.I could use it to park the car with the engine running or even use it as a poor man's LSD for the front. Unfortunately my transfer case mounts where the handbrake used to mount and I haven't mounted it somewhere else yet...

anyone ever swapped in toyota or chevy 6 lug stuff?

My offroader is a 81 hatch rolling on 31x10.50 15s.power is served by a EJ22 backed by a 5 speed DR and a divorced nissan transfercase.It goes just fine.stopping is different matter.I have never had a 4wd subaru with something I would consider good brakes especially when lifted and rolling on bigger and heavier tires. In the best of times I could get the rears to sorta kinda lock on gravel.Now my left front caliper is leaking.I should note that I am already running EA82 front suspension on my hatch.Anyway the caliper is leaking from the back-the ebrake setup..So I was planning on rebuilding the front calipers,but I got to thinking while I have to do the brakes anyway why not upgrade them.With the bigger rims I have some room for bigger brakes.So has anyone ever upgraded their brakes to better cope with the larger tires found under an offroader while staying with 4 lug? thanks in advance.

makes me wish I had a car that was going to the crusher...

two winters ago after having FWD cars my entire life I completely gave up on FWD.My 93 FWD legacy with 4 BRAND NEW snow tires would not climb the hills around here half as well as any of my RWD vehicles.The legacy would understeer like no other into the turns and would fall flat on its face when it came time to accelerate up out of the corner.To the point that no matter how you tried to drive the car would only go walking speed with the front tires spinning. Even the darling of FWD handling the left foot brake( which works so well on gravel) did nothing to help with the understeer. The only time I ever had to back down a hill and get a running start at was with the legacy. Assuming I have decent tires on my rwd cars I can blitz right up the same hill with no problems other than the tail out attitude of the car.FWD is really good at starting from a stop on flat ground but as soon as you start going up a hill the advantage goes to RWD. not to mention I find it easier to drive my RWD cars because the front end isn't constantly darting around anytime one wheel has more traction than the other. I'm not just saying this out of the joy I find in RWD oversteer but I have skied almost every year of my life and every FWD has behaved the same.Some slightly better than others,but still every single one of them the front end would dart everywhere and the cars would understeer into the corners. FWD is supposed to be easier to master?You practically have to be rally car driver to manage FWD. No my only priority is NOT driving sideways everywhere. Around here I see AWD/4wd's stuck in the ditches all the time due to overconfidence in their machine.When you take off from a start in snow in an AWD vehicle it takes some serious abuse to get it to start spinning its tires.So the average driver thinks its not that slick out there so its perfectly acceptable to go 65 when conditions only warrant 35-45.Then eventually they find a corner that does cause the tires to break loose and they end up in the ditch possibly even upside down.With a 2wd you know right from the start that it IS in fact slick out there and to slow the hell down...

as far as making the rx7 AWD NO.I may get flamed for this but I view RWD>AWD. Say your in the snow AWD's natural home. AWD can lead to overconfidence because it takes alot more to make them slide,but when they DO slide things can go from bad to worse really quickly.So that leaves 2wd. FWD is lame and won't climb the hills around here so that leaves RWD. So I may be insane but 98% of the time I would take RWD over AWD/4wd. AWD only helps you accelerate,not brake or steer.