Uberoo

you can lengthen the radious rods a little to get the tires out of the firewall.

the sway bar really kills wheel travel,so it will ride rougher on logging trails with it on there. just without the swaybar it will handle like an old truck,with a low center of gravity.try it with and without the swaybar and see what way you like best.The swaybar is always the first thing to go on my subarus.

only if your keeping the sway bar.other wise just two.

holy necro thread batman.a friend once grabbed and picked up the ea81 that was in my lifted wagon and put it on the trailer when I blew a clutch...

arn't you running about a 27" tire anyway?There are super swampers at about that size.

Japanese accent/Turbocharger?/Japanese accent

needs super swampers for that.

there isn't really alot of fab involved to swap the ej in.just needs a 1/2" adapter plate and the flywheel needs some work.You can buy the adapter plate for around 200 after shipping give or take.you can buy the flywheel or dremel it out yourself... look in the retrofitting section and you can find a write up on the ej swap.Ive completed two and each one is a different experiance.

you really should have been in stock class because your tires are about stock size for those trucks anyway.Is there a 4 cylinder or v6 class?

I wasnt aware that subarus were fast.Mine just seems to make more noise when I press the pedal.

neither its cam is driven by a gear from the crank and the valves are actuated by pushrods.just like a v8..

unless I got lucky and the axle had a locker I would probably just weld it or throw in a spool of some sort.

its running in FWD so all the 4wd stuff isnt spining.

much mo' better!

the alternator wiring for the EJ alt has a yellow wire, a black wire and a large white wire.the white wire taps into the battery feed wire about 8" from the connector. the alternator wiring on the 81 has the large white wire in addition to a solid yellow wire,a solid black wire, and either a white/black tracer or yellow with black tracer(the wire looks like a darkened white wire or a faded yellow wire with a black tracer.) so what connects where?

when you are pulling the harness itself from the car cut connectors that you KNOW you will not need.Lights,heater fan,wipers, cruise control(unless you want cruise control) etc.When you have the dash off the car you will see that the harness splits in the middle of the car.One bundle of wires goes through the firewall DO NOT CUT THESE WIRES.The other bundle heads over to the passenger side of the car and from there it goes and feeds into stuff like taillights,seatbelts,power windows..there is only ONE wire from there that you will need.Its a black wire with a red tracer, it goes to the fuel pump from the fuel pump relay.However you can cut that whole bundle of wires.It might be worthwhile to keep the fuse box in the harness for as long as possible to help figure out where power needs to be. take the time to unbolt any grounds you come across.Many will just fall out of the harness after you remove a few wires. the ignition relay needs a ground,but you wont know which wire that is until you can trace it to the ignition relay.The connector that goes to the instrument cluster can be cut although a few wires a needed and those go the ecu.these are things like check engine light,tach,vss,etc. You can also remove all the other relays from the ej car other than the ignition relay and the fuel pump relay.Those are relays are for things like headlights,wipers,turn signals.Stuff that isn't needed because the car you are putting the engine into will have all those and those relays arnt needed to make the engine run. Are you running air conditioning?if not cut the connectors to the AC related stuff.Are you running an auto or a manual transmission?If your running a manual and the donor car came with an automatic you can cut all the wires under the hood leading to the transmission, same with the wires leading to the TCM, its the gold box under the dash.the engine ECU is the silver box with yellow connectors.. that should get you started.Once you get the harness home take the tape off and start tracing and removing wires that were cut when you removed the harness. just keep track of the powers.My own EJ swap wouldn't start for a while because I didn't have power where it was needed.Once I added those power wires the engine started up and idled smoothly,Even if it did SHOUT that it was alive.Y pipe only is pretty loud in a garage.. hope that helps.

its time to wire in an alternator on my ej swapped hatch.there two wires on the connector side that I am not sure of.A black with white tracer and a yellow wire.this is for a 91 3 wire alt.I imagine that one is hot whenever the key is on,and the other is the charge light.Going by subaru color coding yellow is normally a power so would it be safe to say that the yellow wire is switched hot,and the black wire with the white tracer is for the charge light? my car started life as an 81 hatch with an externally regulated alt.Will the factory charge light wire in the harness work even with the regulator unplugged and thrown away or would I need to splice in a wire somewhere? thanks in advance.

I already have EA82 front suspension.

could I use a EA82 powersteering crossmember? and is it even necessarily to get the ps cross member?I will be heading up to get parts in my sisters car(because driving my 17mpg cummins wont be fun up there) but I am worried that a crossmember may not fit in her car.

I am looking into possibly retrofitting power steering on my 81 hatch offroader.I have a front locker but it made it almost impossible to turn. I tried to test drive the offroader and I got it into the other lane of our two car garage.I had to make like a 10 pt turn to get it back where I was working on it, because once the wheel got turned it went to full lock and I couldnt turn the wheel the other way.So I would like to see if powersteering might be able to make it turn before resorting to an open front diff. from what ive gathered to do the swap I need the EA81 powersteering crossmember,the lines,and the steering extension.With my EJ22 what do I do for a powersteering pump?

would you rather have someone stick a hose down your tank and steal a couple gallons of gas or would you rather have them cut a fuel line or worse punch a hole in your gas tank to get the gas? same reason that I rarely lock my car.I would rather have them open a door and steal my stuff,than have them break a window AND steal my stuff.course I would rather them not touch my stuff to begin with.Normally dont have people in my car anyway.I don't keep valuables in the car.The only things they will find are wrappers and other assorted trash,if they take that there doing me a favor. theres the car itself,but every single one of my cars is easily identifiable.My subaru- its the ONLY lifted subaru around here.My datsun 200sx- its the ONLY one ive seen around here,not to mention its blue with white racing stripes-totally blends in a crowd... so if a car got stolen I would be telling it to the officer as someone else is pulling them over..." ya its the blue datsun with with white racing stripes that sounds like a popcorn maker at idle..." one thing nice about living in a small town.

theres a familiar tool!There was a time that I thought vice grips were only for locking tailgate struts.Then I learned that they are also extremely useful for transferring the intense heat of welding to your hand... a more permanent solution is to get a thin piece of metal as long as the travel of the strut and fold it over the the top of the strut so when its in place it locks the strut.Just make the piece loose enough that you can slip it on or off relatively easy but tight enough that it locks the strut. Bonus is that you can paint the piece of metal to look like it belongs,and it frees up the vice grips for more important things....like transfering the intense heat of welding to your hand.

how noticeable would the loss of 3" of ground clearance be under the diff?Right now my rear diff is 12" from the ground,A toyota axle with the same size tires looks to have about 9" under the diff.3" may not seem like much but right now if I go through a rut thats bigger than my diff the tires will extend down and continue to grab traction even if the diff is sitting on the ground. with a solid axle as soon as the ruts get high enough that the diff is the ground thats pretty much it.Your stuck unless the front can still get enough traction to move you.or is there not that much of a difference?

interesting

what does the little pin do?