Uberoo

I built "super stretchy" axles using legacy inner DOJ's at each end of the stock axles.

on my 81 hatchback offroader I began having problems with breaking rear axles after I installed a divorced nissan transfercase and 31" tires.I may have fixed that issue by using legacy inner DOJ's at each end so this post may be worthless only time will tell.However I just swapped in a ej22 so i might be back to blowing axles.The thing is I was blowing the old axles and I wasn't even on the throttle.Ie crawling up a hill in low gear idling...If I can't figure something out I will swap in a solid rear axle.I am just wondering if there would be any sort of practical difference between a toyota 8" and a nissan H190 or C200 in 4.11.Ive heard any of those axles can take 35"s,I would just be running 31"s under a hatch...would any of those axles be lighter,have better ground clearance,easier to convert to disk brakes,etc?

I have a phase 1 ej22 in my offroader that I need to build a snorkel and an exhaust for. I was planning on running a 2 1/4" straightpipe (might add a glasspack) exhaust .The snorkel will be connected to the car through a airbox I had from a mazda 2200 diesel.So I will have to neck down the factory 3" air intake down to 2 1/2".On the other side of the mazda airbox it will be 3" pvc to the roof. I am wondering if either intake or exhaust will kill top end end power? thanks in advance.

never mind.found it.the port was hiding beneath a bunch of stuff and I had to look at it funny to see it..

I haven't found a single port on the crossover tube other than the one I added for the EA81's gauge. Would anyone have a hose diagram or something for that area?Im losing my mind trying to find where that hose goes to. thanks in advance.

mounted up yet? I want to see some pics of the suspension cycled with the tires on.

here is a link with the gravel express WANT. anyway theres some pics in there of the rear tire mount.Interesting.. http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=2124

would you happen to have a picture of the hose from the crossover tube to the IAC?I'm not finding any hoses near there or any other open ports.The port is the one directly about the coolant temp senders.

doubt it,trailer rims are really narrow.

SHE LIVES!!!!!!!!!!! I connected a wire from switched hot to the yellow wire of the diode and she fired right up.Ran PURRFECT.Hitting on all 4 no stumbling or missing.Didn't run it for long because the radiator isnt hooked up but just long enough to hear it bellowing out its subaru song with just its y pipe for an exhaust.. EDIT: there is a small 5/16" tube fitting on the IAC.Does that little hose connect to the intake tract after the MAF like everything else does?

you can make one yourself. its not hard,but it wont win any beauty contests. I made mine for $2 from parts at home depot. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=127565

I messed around in paint and I came up with kinda a hybrid design.Tire mounted in the center with its bottom about the same height as the lower edge of the stock bumper.top bar going horizonal across the car with its centerline lined up with the lower edge of the hatch,then have a lower bar angling from the tire down to a mount with the bearing center lined up with the upper bar bearing mounted to a steel bumper.so both mounts would be slightly outside the body to clear the hatch.In my minds eye it would seem that the lower bar would do most of the work holding the tire up,while the top bar would almost act as a zero-force member.I wonder if that design might work better and hopefully not tear the body sheetmetal.there would be a fair bit of vertical distance separating the mounts so it should resist twisting(sagging) reasonably well.The rodeo I got it from had both mounts mounting to the body and it had a couple of plates welded to the back side of the skin to anchor into.Then it latched in place in the center of the tailgate resonably tightly.All said and done the mount was held to rodeo body by 10 bolts(3 in each mount and 4 holding the latching mechanism.)

I just got back from pull and save where I made a spare super duper stretchy axle (legacy inner DOJ's and EA81 axle shafts).Just as I was about to leave I happened to see a isuzu rodeo with a swing out spare tire holder.So I grabbed that to put on my hatchback.It seems like its not going to go on nicely,it looks like it will be a chop, cut, reweld type of deal. So i was wondering if anybody had some pictures of a hatch with a swing out carrier for inspiration?

except that the DR 5 speed isn't known to be that reliable when pushing power through them.The rear transfer gears tend to die.theres several people with EJ22's that have had to replace a DR 5 speed.ej20t would just be worse. from what ive found out turboing a non turbo ej22 is a bad idea so I wouldn't try it.

the turbo itself should be fine assuming you let it cool down a bit before going into a mud hole.the turbo when under extreme load for a long time can actually glow cherry red.as long as the turbo isn't that hot when you mudding it will be fine.I would be much more concerned with dirt entering the turbo than the heating and cooling.If your really concerned with it you can always run a splash shield/heat shield around the turbo. axles and stuff should live if you go with EJ parts.the ej stuff was designed for a heavier car.So I can only imagine that going down in weight would make them last longer provided you didn't go big on tires. if you figure that a wrx roughly weighs 3000 lbs and has roughly 25" tires and a gl weighs about 500 lbs less. thats roughly a 17% reduction in stress so a tire 17% bigger would put it right at about the same stress as stock.but everything is designed to go like 200K miles at that stress so you could go a fair bit bigger on tire size for a corresponding decrease in axle life. if you ran a tire that is 33" that is 34% bigger so it would effectively half the life expectancy of the axles. thats just kinda a baseline though,because there is a whole lot more variables acting on the axles than weight and power and tire size.not to mention if a wheel is spinning and catches traction it could blow an axle. so with that being said in real life with 33" tires and wrx/STI power I would expect broken parts somewhere between 1 month and 1 year after the swap depending on how hard you are offroad.assuming you started with brand new parts in the first place.

so your saying I need to bypass the diode with switched power?

the gas tank stays in the same position near the body,so no. fuel lines at the engine?maybe depending on how much slack there is in the lines. brake lines.On ea81's there is enough slack in front brake lines for 4",the rears can go to about 12" with some creative line routing.So I would imagine the lines are somewhat similar on a legacy.

a three day weekend,hm.I might be able to swing that one.when,where,and what time would you all meet up at? I would love to come out there meet you guys.I just have to get a few things ironed out on my subaru first.for starters the ej swap doesn't run yet,and before the swap I was blowing up rear axles.I seemed to have fixed that,not sure with more power though...

that wire has power.on the engine side of the diode that wire is yellow.the wire on the other side of the diode is light green and splits up.One of those splits is the ignition relay switch which is connected to ignition power.

where does the coil pack get its power from?

I'm looking for an exploded parts diagram for a DR 5 speed and a push button or EJ 5 speed.Not having very much luck finding them elsewhere,but if anyone knows where I can digital versions of those it would be great.

displacement and compression wins the NA horsepower wars.the 2.5 has you beat as far as displacement but I don't know its compression.On the other hand if if the 2.33 ends up with higher compression it will be faster because there isn't that much difference in displacement between 2.5 and 2.33.any idea of what the compression would end up as with the 2.33 vs 2.5? EDIT: doing some research on the net it seems the 2.2 block+2.5 crank and rods+ 2.2 pistons = 8.0CR. reportedly using 2.2 rods makes compression 11.0.It seems your best best is to put together crank, and 1 cylinder worth of stuff to measure clearances.

if the dash is the same how come the instrument cluster from the 84 phsyically wouldnt fit in the 81 dash? the 84 instrument cluster was 2 inches taller and 3 inches longer than the space available.

when I put the ecu in the other one I mounted the computer in a tupperware container that was a little bigger than the ecu.that was mounted in the dash where the glove box went.I had to modify one of the HVAC hoses for it all to fit.it was a mess and it was only good for splash protection. before that I had the ecu stuffed up into the dash where the driver side speaker went held in place with lots of zip ties.After drowning the ecu and the motor I started to looking into waterproofing all that stuff.

a weber only needs two vacuum lines: one from the carb to the vacuum advance on the disty,and the brake boost line.not to mention the tin can looking thing and its assorted lines.that's a vacuum reservoir for the HVAC stuff in the dash.everything else can get capped off as close to the manifold as possible then removed.