Uberoo

brown might not stand out as much as black if your on dirt.

So what are the improvements you want before the next race? I'm thinking some weight reduction might be nice: fiberglass hood fiberglass rear hatch fiberglass fuel door or just get rid of it altogether replace rear 1/4 windows with lexan, same with the hatch glass if you are willing to loose the heating element relocate battery to trunk remove rear seat remove speakers from rear doors and rear parcel shelf then you could gut the rear doors and install fixed lexan windows with the hatch glass being lexan the rear wiper is not essential and it too can go in the round file With no speakers behind the driver,their wires become redundant,same with the rear wiper motor,the wiring for the door ajar sensors and the sensors themselves are more of a convenience than a necessity so they can be removed as well. The biggest gains will come from looking at everything you added to the car and removing any excess fat/beef from them. switching to a lightweight battery would also be a nice touch

asphalt or dirt?Is there a figure 8 as well as the derby?Are there separate classes for compacts or do they lump 70's american iron with jap-tin?

DO NOT LET YOUR FRONT END GET HIT.Your distributor is right up front and your CV axles are very vulnerable. Post a copy of the rules,and what your likely competitors will bring. FYI, I like demo derbies but I will never run a subaru in one.The sheetmetal is too thin,The engine is too close to the front bumper.They will not survive overheating,The drivetrain will not survive the abuse,etc.That goes for all subarus.

Yea if you could measure the width of a SOHC ej25 that would be great IIRC a phase 1 ej22 is ~29" wide. So how is the powerband of a SOHC ej25 with stock cams?What RPM does it fall flat on its face?Does it provide power over a broad RPM range or is it peakier? *EDIT from looking at a dyno of a stock SOHC vs DOHC 2.5 it seems that everything is better with the SOHC until ~5300 rpm and then DOHC runs away with its improved top end breathing.So for my purposes I would need a set of cams from the SOHC ej25 that shifts power up a little higher up the RPM range without taking too much from the mid range.

With the OBS suspension and the 1" lift the control arms are at a steeper angle this in effect increases the relative suspension stiffness because more the force from the road is transferred into the chassis instead of being absorbed into the suspension.To fix it you would have to put slightly softer springs on relating to the cosine or sine of the control arm angle change to find out the new effective spring rate,and soften the springs by that much. So MATH BLAH BLAH BLAH Angle Stiff suspension BLAH BLAH BLAH.Drive down some dirt roads or jump it to soften the springs up.

So I was thinking of shoving a SOHC EJ25 in my first gen rx7.Due to the extreme width of DOHC heads they wont fit between the frame rails. SOHC ej22's will fit, but I am wondering if the SOHC ej25 is wider than the EJ22 and if so by how much? Assuming the engine fits whats the reliability like on the SOHC ej25?Whats the power delivery like,ie does it feel sporty or truck like in nature? Any issues with the SOHC ej25 in NA form I should be aware of?

'splain to me how 3/16" wall tube that mounts to 3 layers at best of subaru 22 gauge steel is anything but redunkulus?

the rear diff and axles should hold up to H6 power because only 1/2 of the power goes back there.so roughly only 115 hp,about the same as an ej18 driving the rear wheels.On my T cased hatch with an ej22 the rear axles held up fine in rwd, at least on the street.

Looks good but anything over 1/8" wall is overkill on something like a toyota or jeep, 3/16 or 1/4 wall on a subaru is redonkulus.

It goes BOOM.The 5 speed manuals don't like the H6,the 6 speed might hold up to the power though.The DR 5 speeds eat transfer gears with stock ea81/82 power

The middle of the road ones from rockauto should be good, or you might get lucky and find some nice cheap spares at the pick a part. It might be worth a shot to get some maf cleaner and clean out the sensor and see if that fixes it before spending the money for a new part-store or otherwise. The engine can still run off preloaded maps from the O2 sensor or TPS without a maf. The computer uses those 3 sensors to fine tune the maps for optimum power/mpg I think anyway, I haven't actually seen the programming or fuel/ignition maps. When a sensor is bad but still transmits data the computer gets confused because the values arn't typically on the standard fuel/igniting map,when the sensor is either disconnected or not transmitting the computer uses the standard fuel/ignition maps with reference to the other sensors at its disposal.

See if it runs better by disconnecting sensors one by one.If it is a sensor issue it will either run worse if its working correctly, or run better if its not because the bad sensor sends bad signals to the computer confusing it. Also take a look at your sparkplugs,one or more injectors might be messed up and dumping fuel or running lean to where the other injectors pour fuel in the engine to make it run Also, seeing as water seems to effect it check your fuel lines and anywhere else where water could possibly get into the fuel system.

I had another thought from the dumb idea department.What if I converted that long rear strut into a long front coilover by converting the suspension to a dual wishbone suspension? Then I just have to figure out how to mount a balljoint in the knuckle where the strut went. I mocked everything up and there is enough space around the brake booster to mount those as coilovers....the cogs they are are turning...and shearing teeth.

I'm not using EA81 axles all around per se. The front I was hoping just to use front ea81 axles,the rear on the other hand uses EA81 axle shafts with legacy DOJ's on both ends.If the ea81 fronts are not strong enough after optimizing the geometry I will play around with axles to see if I can get ea82 or EJ CV joints on the ea81 axle shafts.The best axle would be an outer CV at each end for lots of flex,but the suspension would need to be very optimized so that there is no axle plunge at all. I found out about the long travel ej rear struts from monroes website,volvo 740 front struts are also pretty long IIRC.

I need to get better tools before I can take the front knuckle apart.Broke my 1/2" craftsman socket wrench trying to get the axle nut off, and my impact wrench didn't have enough power to get it broke loose. Now I need to return that socket wrench and see if the pawn shops have a 1/2 and 3/8" breaker bars awesome.

I was planning on using EA81 axles because they are short and stout enough that I *theoretically* can get long travel out of them just by moving the inner control arm pivot points inward to reduce axle plunge.Power wise EJ22/DR 5 speed through a divorced transfercase feeding into 4.11 diffs.

In my quest for more suspension travel I found out that EJ rear struts have almost twice the travel as EA front struts.Then at the same time I decided to use 1st gen legacy or impreza front suspension under my 83 rx7 to get rid of the recirculating ball steering and relatively fragile front suspension construction.I ended up finding a 93 impreza parts car to rob stuff from and have most of the parts I needed from it. Now that I have some of the parts next to each other I am a little unsure how to proceed. The EJ rear strut is much bigger than the ea81 front strut both in length and diameter in addition to mounting style.Rather than try to modify the ea81 knuckles to accept the EJ struts it seems easier to use the EJ front knuckle with the rear strut along with an ej front tophat .I'm just wondering if it is possible to use EA 4x140 hubs on the EJ knuckles for bolt pattern reasons because it is easy to find offroad wheels in 6 lug not so much for the EJ 5x100.While the bigger brakes would be awesome I can always swap in some toyota brakes on the EA stuff.Here is a picture of the two struts side by side so you can get an idea of what I'm dealing with. I first thought of removing the ej mounts and welding on some EA style mounts but that ended badly last time I tried in addition the struts are a full 1/4" bigger in diameter so the EA knuckle wouldn't be very strong with that much material removed.Then I thought about cutting apart some EJ rear knuckles to use the mounting ears but I'm not sure if there is enough meat to build up the EA knuckles, to say nothing of welding cast iron.What do you think?I would like to use those longer struts because they are about as long as any that I can find before going to coil overs,but I would still like to use the 4/6x140 pattern for its availability.

So fix the headgasket,its not that hard or that expensive even.

He already has an outback so he would need forester struts.

So in prepration for making the rollcage mockups punch through the roof and also to seam weld the existing roof structure I removed the windshield.The old rubber seal was very hard and brittle so I cut it to get the glass out rather than risk breaking the windshield.The seal itself didn't want to come off the roof so I ended up burning it out with a propane torch.So much for the "pristine" roof paint-lolz,the roof paint was so crappy I had zero issues about laying body panels on top of it from the start of the project.. On the plus side, the window rail was perfectly preserved with no rust,sweet. Taking the glass out really isn't picture worthy because it really doesn't change the look of the car much.Especially when most of the burn marks/discoloration from the torch rubbed right off.

A bent valve is possible with some water ingestion at low engine speeds.

1968 Honda CT90. Rebuilt the engine but now I can't get it started . So now it sits in the garage until I decide to start working on it again.

One might say that a long travel IFS subaru with a rollcage would be totally impracticable to drive on the street.

Yea, no AC in an enclosed car with a firesuit and helmet could get a bit hot, but what if all the glass except for the windshield went missing BECAUSE RACECAR then the AC would be redundant.If you are still abit hot afterwards you could always get one of those coolshirt setups...