Uberoo

are the two inch blocks a solid piece or are they multiple blocks.If they are a bunch of 1x2" blocks than you can just unbolt the strut top from car and put them on.If the blocks are one piece ala SJRlift then you will have to remove the strut from the car to install them.

the stock location for the ecu is lower than if it was mounted where the spare tire used to sit.plus it would be difficult to effectively waterproof the ecu,relays, and ignition amplifier while fitting behind a dash that never even was designed for a computer.the car is an 81 hatch.On my last car was an 84 gl and I tried to fit the ecu behind the dash and it was VERY tight.Not to mention that the old plastic was super brittle and most of it on the dash was destroyed in the effort to remove the dash.On this car because the dash is physically smaller,older,and in better condition than the dash on the 84 I opted to put in where the spare tire would sit.

spare parts of whatever is most likely to break.axles,timing belts,various sensors,etc.Spare lugnuts are also good.

the ammo box also is where the relays and ignition amplifier live.kinda hard to water proof those.

yea they pulsed on and off, same with the light in the computer.They kept pulseing even after I unplugged the green connectors and turned the key to off.They quit when I pulled the fuse front the memory wire.

it still wont start.I thought maybe that the choice in wires for start and run wasn't working so I checked them again.I can't find a wire that is 12V plus when I am cranking,the ones that have voltage are 8-9V.I can't even get the thing to pop.timing is right. even running the start wire directly off the small wire on the starter doesn't help.Pulled a spark plug and Im still not getting spark.

so it looks like F47 14,B48 11,and B48 22 are supposed to be grounded.is that correct or is more needed?all three of those wires tap into a rather large bundle of grounds in the harness. so I added those three grounds now and once again my battery is complete crap..I need to fully charge it and see if its any good at all.

it sill doesnt start but now I can smell gas.

so I spliced a wire from constant 12 to the large yellow wires for relays same with the ecm wire 12V constant has hooked to originally,then a switched 12v wire from the light green relay to the other switched 12v.got it all hooked up.nothing in the car is soldered or in its proper place.gonna try turning it on and see what happens before I put everything in final.then my battery is junk.it charged all of yesterday,and it was disconected and its still flat.so its on a 50 amp start charge.in 30 minutes ill go out there and see if I can get this thing popping!from what I understand it should have 12V at all the right places(switched and constant).

I am doing a EJ22 swap on an 81 hatch.I had the ecu mounted where the spare tire used to sit inside an ammo box.got everything all together and I wouldn't start because there is no power to the ignition relay.While its apart I can change some things. originally to seal up the holes in the ammo box where the harness ran through I used lots of expanding foam.It would have worked just looked bad and was a real PITA the get the harness out.the harness came out the back of the box close to the firewall,so not that ugly but noticeable if you looked at it from the side.Anyway I am asking for any suggestions on how to seal the ammo box(at least enough to not leak for a couple minutes submerged).I know that subaru=/ submarine but when your offroading in tracks made by large trucks and your in something relatively small like a lifted Subaru-water tends to go over your hood..then if you get stuck in said hole

ok got the harness out and partially stripped. constant hot just goes to B48 15. switched hot goes to the little yellow wire in the fuel pump relay and B58 12. all of the yellow wires from the ignition relay splices into a wire to the engine. the light green wire from the ignition relay goes into a wire splice that goes to F47 9 and the engine. the black ignition relay wire is grounded and is the only ground I have.

nothing.

I have no power whatso ever at the ignition relay on any wire.

i put 2" blocks above my struts.the bolt holes were offset for camber. as for the trimming,if you look at stock fenders you will see where the fender flare meets the rest of the fender.I cut all that out.Then bashed in the floorboard until it was all a couple inches past the lower door hinge.after I was done I had to readjust the clutch for more travel and adjust the doors.. all hammering was done with a 10 lb hammer.` after I beat it out I ran with it for a while.Then I put ea82 front suspension under it for more travel.When I put the ea82 front suspension under it I also extended the radius rods 1.5" which moved the tire forward away from the foot well. the rear suspension was just cranked up. here is a picture of the thing before I put an 8" lift and a nissan transfer case under it. heres a pic when it still had the factory suspension.the tire went flat because alot of debris got into the bead after playing.you can still see how close the tire was to door.

ob1 91 intake manifold,wiring harness and ecu.

looks great,my only concern is the D rings on the rear bumper arn't meant for recovery just for tie downs.I don't know if you have had to use them yet,but I thought I would throw that out.For recovery you want shackles mounted as securely as possible to something solid. either type will work but you can use more weld to mount the shackles than you can with the d ring.

im not a fan of rag joints,mainly because the effort of turning my 31's was tearing the rag joint a little..that and I like steering precision.

ok so I try to start it after I have everything hooked up and it didnt start.pulled a spark plug and no spark so that tells me the computer is somehow not getting voltage.So I got out my my multimeter and started checking for voltage.I have voltage at the constant hot wire for the computer,when the ignition is switched on I have voltage to the wires that is supposed to be hot in run and start,and I have voltage to the start wire,BUT I HAVE NO VOLTAGE to the the ignition relay. is there something Ive missed?the harness and ECU came out of a running car.Any ideas on where to check before I unsolder all the connections the harness has to car and lay out everything on my floor and start again? there is power all the way up to the original yellow wire splice that that should be hot in start or run from there one wire goes toward to engine to power up that part of the harness and the other one goes to computer to power it on.even if the memory wire for the computer wasnt connected it should still start and run. if anything there is only one wire attached permanently to car,everything else has connectors..except that wire requires taking apart the dash.

I am putting the finishing touches on my 81 EJ22 hatch.Right now my only concern is the return line.I know on the engine the reline line is the one that feeds into the pressure regulator.my problem comes with the car itself.the car originally had a computer controlled EA71,so the return line is very small,like 1/8" inside diameter.I am wondering if that will flow enough to return the fuel from the ej22?

from your exhaust it looks like some water is either getting in the exhaust or the engine.Double check all your connections just be be sure intake and exhaust.

needs MOAR flapper.

aw you dont NEED taillights so its all good.

depending on how much you want to massage the fenderwells, I fit 235/75/15's on my 2" lifted EA81..

how come you didn't have a skidplate? thats mandatory for offroad.Heck around here its mandatory on the street.

very nice