Uberoo

have you test fitted the tire size you want yet?Looks like alot of your uptravel will be killed by the tires binding up in the wheel wells. on my EA81 with 8" of lift and 31's I can only stuff the tires so far into the wheelwells before they bind up.nowhere near the max angle of the CV's.Thats for the rear.the front is limited by the 6" travel ea82 struts... also what EJ car are the front axles for?

your tempo springs might be different,but I had to cut a coil off just to even get them into the strut.the coil you want is NOT progressive BTW.

drill out the hubs don't drill aluminum rims. especially ones that are thin where you need it the most. steel wheels are fine to drill because there is enough material there.

so how hot does your exhaust get?I wouldn't like to try to attach a tow strap to the clevis only to get my hand burned.

you know that a normal lift spaces the engine and running gear away from the body right?were it not for the bigger tires you would still have the exact same ground clearance.if you want more clearance why not do a 4" lift coupled with a 1.5 -2" suspension lift,aka outback struts.

I do alot of wheeling in the woods so it is fairly normal to have a tree limb smack the lights up top.I was thinking about building a cage out of 1/2" square steel tube to help protect them.Not to mention my old light bar mounts to the roof with 2 bolts through 1x2" aluminum blocks so it flexes abit.Probally could use stronger mounting for it as well.

make a wheeler out of it.Theres nothing on there that can't be fixed.or put its pits in another clean shell.

the fun way and the short fun way.

seeing as we are talking about offroad lights how about placement.It seems alot of us run the lights on the roof because on the bumper is too low.the lights would get filled with water or simply smashed off.When it comes to the fullsize 4x4 crowd however bumper mounted lights are prefered because they seem to light up the trail better. on our subarus roof mounted lights are probally close in height to bumper mounted lights on fullsizes.. what do you prefer?

mosquito pass looks doable by a stock subaru. proper tire placement and it should do fine. black bear pass would be a riot in a EA81 hatch,just drive right up it.

Ive seen a Tahoe with 8 forward facing lights (4 on bumper,4 on roofrack),4 side facing lights,and 2 rear facing lights.I believe that was somebodies SHTF vehicle.All the lights were on a roof rack,that also had 2 gas cans, and spare tire.Not to mention a lift and bigger tires.cool looking rig but I'm not sure if it goes offroad. that being said 6-8 offroad lights are fairly common.I have 4 that I am gonna mount to the roof of my offroader pointing forwards and two rear facing fog lamps.I just haven't got the ambition to try to remove the perfect headliner yet. I'm sure after I go wheeling in it it wont be perfect anymore..

why 8" of lift?What size tires are you planning on running?Extended brake hardlines can be bought from your local napa you can make some if you have the flaring tools.

3 point turn for subarus would be a turn you can make on three wheels.

in the pic with the guy messing with the rear brake,where is the jackstand?

I thought it might be worth sharing but I guess it won't work for us.

a legacy is heavier and more powerful than any EA series subaru,a WRX is more powerful than a legacy...a tribeca is very heavy.

I was reading a page on Z car modifications.Eventually they got to a section about changing the rear end ratio and correcting the speedometer.I know old subaru's and old datsun's shared alot of parts, so it is possible that speedometer gears for a datsun might work in a subaru to correct for different sized tires.For instance according to the website the WHITE gear is 19 tooth for 3.90.I took apart an old 4 speed DR and IIRC it had a white speedometer drive gear.Anybody know how many teeth the speedometer drive gear has for our subies?If its the same than re-gearing the speedometer might be possible. just as a point of reference here are the datsun colors and teeth counts: YELLOW is the 16 tooth for the 3.36 BLACK is the 17 tooth for the 3.54 BLUE is the 18 tooth for the 3.70 WHITE is the 19 tooth for the 3.90 RED is the 20 tooth for the 4.11 PURPLE is the 21 tooth for the 4.38

How would I do that?I havent had one of those boxes apart so I am not familiar with how they are set up.

the stock suspension wont give you that much travel.The front struts limit the front to only about 5-6".The rear suspension has short links so as the suspension moves it travels in an arc.that arc uses more cv angle than just the straight down travel would suggest.his setup has longer links so the wheels travel in a bigger arc. Meaning for the same range of vertical travel the wheel will have less side to side travel so you get more total travel.

You just unbolt the engine/transmission crossmembers and insert spacers of required height.Then do the same or blocks 1+ longer at the struts than what you put the engine/transmission at. IE. 2" at the engine 3" at the struts. or something

I know this is a old thread but I just want to throw in my two cents: What do you break the most and why:rear axles What is your final Crawl Ratio:46.391 EA81 or EA82:EA81 What size tires:31x10.50x15 Amount of lift:8" Locked/open/LSD:Locked/Fozzy Locker one of the really neat things about lifted subarus aside from the looks you get is there low center of gravity.Even though I am roughly a foot taller than stock I can take lines over obstacles that a conventional lifted truck/jeep would roll on.With my subaru being small and nimble and the low center of gravity I can take some very interesting lines through something and still be able to maneuver around things. when I first lifted the car I was constantly blowing the rear axle cups-atleast one per outing.Now that I have legacy DOJ's everything is holding up,but the last outing my engine blew.I swapped in a EJ22 now I kinda feel like I am uncharted territory as far as breaking stuff because I haven't had time to get it running yet.

is quality going backwards on new subies?Ive neever seen or heard of something like that for the 80's cars.my 81 doesn't even look rusted on the filler hose.The bottom of the door panels and the tops of the rear fenders though..

My first subaru was a 84 brat.I put a weber carb on it.Offroad the only limitations I had was traction.My next subaru was lifted 2" with 235's.I was limited by lack of power and/or gearing. Now I have power, gearing, and traction, now I am limited by breaking parts.

The only diagram of a throttle body in those diagrams was one of the entire air inlet system.Nothing detailing how the throttle body goes together.Its looking like I might just have to go snag a throttle body from the junkyard.

I have a throttle body for my 90 EJ22 in my offroader,but I accidentally broke the throttle linkage that connects the throttle bell crank to the throttle valve. I have all the parts to fix it just I forgot how everything went.Does anything have an exploded parts diagram for early EJ22 throttle body?One that might show the order of all the parts?