Uberoo

how did you manage that?

thats a cool chevy blazer you got there with a brat body kit...

monstaru is right.the environuts have enough ammo to kill our sport.We don't need to give them anymore ammo.Wheeling in town will just piss people off eventually.best to play it safe.a couple pissed off homeowners complaining is enough to enact major changes. on that note also try not to post pics or videos that could be taken out of context...

Can't wait to see this all finished!

purdy but isn't the engine going to get dirty?

stay away from a remaned axle.An old stock axle with good boots from the junkyard is 100-1000X better than a reman.An old stock axle with new grease is easy 1000X better than reman.I had a reman on the front of my 2" suspension lifted EA81(with EA82 front suspension) and it siezed in 3 days of driving.I have a set of old stock axles with original grease and good boots that have been on the car for a long time with no issues.Heck,stock subaru axles are known to click for 10K miles before they die if they have a torn boot. I vote junkyard axles,or if its the same side side each time look at your motor mounts..

ive used a unmodified 6lug to get home once or twice.I didn't go very fast and the tire was on the rear but it was better than walking... I normally only have one spare tire with me so when it does get called into play I usually start heading home.Or park the rig and finish the trip with someone else... but then again where I play isn't that far from my house.Its nice when the woods are 17 miles from your house... at 200 miles out from anywhere I probally would bring 2 spare tires,and a handfull of spare parts.Not to mention some water both for you and the car,some gas,and enough tools to fix most of what might break..don't for get food while your at it...

NO.Drill the hubs for 6 lug.

I am constantly in low on the DR box anyway.that might change with the EJ's power.

how strong is the legacy 5 speed trans with the center diff welded up? i would loose the low transfer gears,same as the toyota trans for a alot less money.then maybe put in a sammy t case..

i might look into toyota stuff eventually,but right now its set up for subie stuff.my 5 Speed is still going strong so far.I had the setup with a SPFI EA81 for a while and worked pretty good,just everytime I went out I broke a rear axle.Fixed that issue hopefully with legacy DOJ's.

My new offroad car started life as a 1981 subaru Hatch.With a EA71 and FWD.It will end up powered by a phase one EJ22 and backed by a DR 5SPD.Power will then go to a divorced nissan transfer case.the Diffs are 4.11's and it will be turning 31 10.50x15 mud tires.It seems there are some differences between a car that came with a top mount starter EA71 and most of the EA81's.For starters the clutch cable is WAY to short to even reach the DR 5 speed. So I need to make the two hour journey up to pull and save to get a different clutch cable and a EJ22 throttle linkage because I was careless when I put the engine in place and broke a section of the linkage so now I don't have throttle. other than getting the linkage pieces and a longer clutch cable do I need anything else to put a EJ22 and DR 5 speed into a originally FWD EA71 81 hatch? will the clutch cable from a say a 84 EA81 be compatible with the pedals in the 81?Will the throttle cable be long enough/have enough travel to work with the EJ22? the engine and transmission are at stock height relative to the body.

why would you want a FWD 80's wedge?wait wern't most cars in the 80's FWD wedges? a 4wd/awd turbo wedge on the other hand.

A weber or SPFI is a great thing on EA81s.With the old hitatchi the engine would redline at 6000 rpm.With a weber it would go as long as you dared.Back when I had a weber I always got a bit skeered at 8K and let off.SPFI only lets it wind out to 7500,booo.But it turns out when you keep an old 250K mile motor at 7500 pinned through the mud after a while bad things happen.like a cam breaking.One wheeling trip the car wouldn't maintain even 6000 rpm through a mud hole,next mud hole it was floored and only going 4000.By the time that mud hole was over it would only do 2500 floored.Tried to limp it to camp the engine stalled about 1/2 mile from the road.never to start again. all old engines eventually die.Now I have an EJ22 with 135K sitting under the hood.it will be interesting having power..

if it was a hotrod I would spray paint it chrome.

but the rust gets scrapped off in that amount of time too.

seems saving money but having something look "redneck" isn't popular.

If you need a MAF adapter for a cold air intake or snorkel you could buy one for about $30 give or take, Or you can make one for about $2.I had an old stock legacy airbox so I cut out the section that the MAF bolts to.A dremel with a cut off wheel works great here.Once I had that out I drilled out the two rivets that hold the metal backing plate to the plastic.Once that is done you are left with a roughly rectanglar piece of plastic with 4 holes and big hole in the center-and the backing plate.Save the backing plate and go to your local home improvement store with the plastic section and see if you can find something that will fit inside the hole.I found a 3-4" adapter thingie for PVC that fit into the hole and had a slight taper to it.So the further you slid it the plastic section the harder it was to push.Perfect.So I bought it for a total of 2.14 after tax.Once you get it home cut off the section of the adapter where it tapers up from 3 to 4".You will be left with a plastic tube that is tight fitting into the rectangular airbox section you removed eariler.It fits so nice you probally could just have it stuffed in there with nothing holding it other than friction,but I put a little bit of super glue on it for good measure. The metal backing plate itself needs a little bit of work.it has a formed "air horn" on it and that needs to go.So drill out the 4 spot welds and it will pop out. finally trim the adapter to fit the edges of the MAF sensor. Bolt everything together and there you go.total project time was an hour,including wandering home depot.Total cost was $2 if you have a stock legacy airbox handy. optional would be a can of black spray paint if you cant stand the contrast of black and white plastic.Mines going on an offroader so a couple times out everything under the hood will be the same brown so I'm not really worried about it.

For the people searching tempo FRONT springs work on the FRONT.Accord FRONT Springs work on the REAR. the tempo springs are a little smaller in diameter compared to subaru stuff,but they pretty much self center and don't clunk. sorry to the op for missinformation causing him to get the wrong parts.it worked on my car with the EJ22.If you were closer I would help you with it.

could always build a justy buggy with the engine mounted longitudinally next to you.Then use the axles to drive the diffs.It would end up crawler rather than racer but without a low range and the low torque of the justy engine...I bet even a justy engine would turn 31's in that configuration...

I got my springs from a second gen ford tempo 1988-1994 with a v6.I don't know the exact year or option other than v6 2nd gen.The springs are FRONT springs. as long as the springs are the front springs from one of these with a v6 it should work: http://www.thesupercars.org/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/Ford-Tempo.JPG BTW.The springs are actually about 1/2" smaller in diameter than subaru stuff,but they will still seat just fine. I wish I could be more help but a couple of years ago I heard a RUMOR that tempo v6 front springs would give a bit of lift and a stiffer ride.So I went to the junkyard and found a tempo with a v6(2nd gen, the yard didn't have any 1st gens,not that I knew what a first gen tempo even looked like) and grabbed its front springs.took them home and was amazed to see that they would work.just a little tall.I had to remove a coil just to fit them on the struts.

I would rather bring the ECM into the car but a couple problems:I have an 80 hatch so space is at a premium under the dash,secondly every time I mess with the 30+ year old interior panels(especially with subarus) they get broken.My dash is actually in decent shape. On my 84 wagon I mounted the ECM for the SPFI where the glove box would be.I ended up having to modify the ducting under the dash to get it to fit and I ended up with sub par ventilation. so if at all possible I would like to avoid those problems.So I was thinking ammo box with rubber grommets for wires to pass though with some expanding foam in the grommets as well..

How much airflow does a early EJ22 ECM need to keep cool?I am planning on mounting the ECM for my 90 EJ22 where the spare tire used to sit in an ammo box.This is on a vehicle that sees ALOT of mud so the ammo box will be sealed up about as good as I can get it.Will I kill the ECU if there isn't alot of airflow to it? scoobyclimbs mounted his ECM for his early EJ22 in an ammo box right there but he said he doesn't see alot of mud so he drilled a couple holes in the box. On mine it would see alot of mud/water and I am a bit of a slow learner,I know my subaru does NOT equal a submarine but when I drive though a hole made by trucks on 44" tires...I get wet...even with 8" of lift and 31's.especially if I get stuck in said hole...