Uberoo

when I did mine I payed close attention to the taper I was putting in to closely match the taper on the tie rod.I didn't just take a large drill bit and run it through.

why not? people have made 4.44 DR ej transmissions,I have climbed up hills or made it though mud holes that people said was impossible in a car.Impossible just means it hasn't been done yet.

eh why not. heres another plow car. http://www.guzer.com/pictures/redneck_snow_plow.php

I did this on a vehicle that had a 2" suspension lift.Before as the suspension moved at all the steering wheel would go everywhere off road.Now the only time it really moves off road would be when I hit a large rock hard enough to pull a wheel in one direction. flipping the tie rod end is only for suspension lifted vehicles. I dunno if it really bothers you experiment on a spare set of spindles.I don't really have any problems offroad or on road.The only problems I have on the road come from my horrible alignment.take something offroad and the alignment will get knocked out of adjustment.that and my tie rods themselves are bent... HOWEVER numbchux is correct as far has the tie rods raising the roll center of the car and increasing bump steer IN THEORY.in practice when the suspension is lifted the tie rod is at such an extreme angle already that the tie rod binds up pulling the wheels in.tie rod flipped only helps for offroad long suspension travel setups. so like I said,try it on a spare set of spindles on a suspension lifted car and see how you like it.

I used thin external lock washers because they would be pressed into the beveled hole by the nut.in the pic you can see a bit of a lock washer above the nut.

when your suspension is adjusted downward IE suspension lift the tie rod is at a pretty steep angle.that produces alot of bumpsteer with the range of suspension travel.when the tie rod end is moved up it reduces the angle so it reduces bumpsteer a fair bit.Or at least it did on mine.tie rods seems to work best when they are as close to horizontal as possible.So moving the tie rod up helps to correct the tie rod angle from a suspension lift.

if you take a dremel to your hub and move the tie rod up above the pivot point rather than below it, it will reduce the angle on it so you wont get as much bump steer. like this: I used some soft thin washers to help fill in the beveled hole on the bottom. still looks epic.

I found a website that deals with troubleshooting ford and GM computer controlled carbs.The carb has a solenoid that directly controls the A/F ratio.The solenoid has a needle vlave with a rubber tip.Overtime that rubber tip corrodes and falls off the needle valve right into the solenoid,restricting its movement.When that happens the car will surge and in some cases backfire at low throttle.Idle and full throttle are fine because they work on different carb circuits. so with that being said will a normal 2 barrel EA81 carb bolt on to the 1.6L's intake manifold?

except that he didnt shut the engine off before,during,or after fueling.I know shame,shame.

The car was low on gas so we filled it up,and the problem went away for 15 minutes then it came back.Any ideas of what it might be?acceleration is fine,only happens at steady throttle.

subscribed.looks very interesting.

I'm going with an EJ22 in my offroader mainly because of the distributor less ignition system on the EJ22.There is nothing mechanical in the system to wear out and fail other than the fuel pump.Everything is all solid state electronics,so it tends to last long.I too have ran a EJ swapped wagon in water that came up to the bottom of the dash(car had a 1" lift and 24" snow tires". as far as wiring goes one trick Ive found that made everything much easier is to cut wires you know you will not be needing out of the harness as you are pulling it.For example the lights,horn,wipers,AC stuff(if you are not running AC), most anything after the A pillars,radio,speakers,instrument cluster,etc. After you get the harness home and have removed all the tape and wiring loom,start removing cut wires one at a time. if a wire goes to a merge of several other wires cut that wire only.If a wire gets traced all the way to the computer don't panic.Instead leave the wire long and wrap it around the computer. many wires end up getting cut that go to computer especially if running with out AC and its a manual.A couple wires will be cut that harness needs for power that go to ECU.A few wires from the instrument cluster that were cut will go to ECU-these will be stuff like the tach or CEL. IIRC 13 wires get cut that go to ECU if manual and AC less. there are two relays in the harness that are needed:a silver circular relay with a green connector(fuel pump relay-one wire to this will get cut that is the output wire to the fuel pump.), and a brown square relay with a brown connector (ignition relay).All other relays can be cut out of the harness. connectors: only the 4 connectors that go to ECU(bright yellow) and the connectors that go to engine are needed in the harness,all other ones can be cut out-with the exception of the SMJ connector,its the MASSIVE connector in the harness near where the fuse box was.Leave that alone until your harness just has engine wires.Then you can carefully cut one wire out of the SMJ and its corresponding wire on the other side of the connector and solder them together.slowly eliminating the SMJ from the harness. sorry for the book,I just wanted to show that harness isn't hard,you just need a good attention to detail.

what is lighter? EA81 4wd manual wagon or EA82 manual 4wd sedan? also are the crossmember lift blocks in the same location for Ea81 vs EA82?IE could I use sections of an EA81 lift on an EA82?

I wasnt aware the feedback carbed ones would give codes.learn something new everyday.How do I check and identify codes for a feedback carb?

if the EGR was plugged wouldn't that cause a rich condition?computer is expecting a certain amount of air and it gets less air than that.right?Unless the EGR was open to the atmosphere letting in more air..

I know fram is crap. but it was designed for a specific car,so it is possible to get a high quality universal filter for cheap.Don't like fram? get the bosch filter, or the mobilone filter, or the K/n filter if you so desire.

My friend has an 81 FWD hatch.It has a 5 speed and the 1.6L.Not to mention the feedback carb. anyway the car has no problems idling or reving up and going but if you cruse at steady throttle the car will start violently surging.Atleast enough to rock you in your seat.pressing the gas more or letting off will help but as soon as you try to be at a steady RPM it will surge again. Its a DL so no tach to look at while its doing this. I've heard that surging would be a lean condition.In this case lean while cruising, so that's controlled by the low rpm circuit in the carb.Is there a screw I can adjust to richen the mixture at cruise and low throttle? Or any other way to fix it? surging only really happens at low throttle/low load.If you start climbing up a hill,the little bit more throttle needed will straighten it out.

theres two problems with ATV tires: 1. they are offroad only 2. if you try to run them at 5-7 psi they are rated for they will fall off the bead of car tires. for something like an offroad only subaru they work fantasic if they are filled to about 20 psi with a tube.

an ATV tire only needs to hold about a quarter of weight on them say your car weighs 3000 lbs loaded with trail gear and what not.each tire only needs to hold roughly 750 lbs.Most if the atv tires with more than 4 plys are rated for atleast 1000 lbs per tire.

EA81 body styled cars are the best as far as factory goes.at least for offroading. they are lighter and smaller than the EA82 stuff.They also have more ground clearance stock.the EA81 engine itself is great. However the EA82 body style does have some things going for it. A dual range 5 speed is nice because it is very robust compared to the DR 4 speed in the EA81s.Not to mention the equally robust and simple single port fuel injection on the latter ones. my favorite car is a combination of subaru parts: EA81 body style ea81 OR EJ22 engine 5 speed DR(1986-89 EA82's) EA82 front suspension(longer axles,control arms,etc) EA81 body style pros: lighter,smaller,more ground clearance,stout engine EA81 body style cons: crappy 4 speed DR,carbureted,slow,short front suspension limits travel.cars are getting a bit scarce. EA82 body style pros: 5 speed dual range,SPFI,better front suspension than EA81. EA82 body style cons: everything else. larger,heavier,EA82 engine likes to overheat and eat timing belts,less ground clearance stock.

why does the output or input of the transfercase have that ring around it?

you might be a redneck(or poor) if your tires cost more than the car.

at the time of my posting it was round 1 where distorto had 70+ votes. his mod list is as follows: modlist Engine: Vf23 turbo - deadbolt monster ported & polished and ceramic coated TurboXS TMIC Blitz induction box Helix catless downpipe - ceramic coated by Polydyn Invidia G-200 catback with an interchangeable straight pipe modded stock injectors walbro fuel pump opensource tune by AWDTuning Suspension: 05 Forester struts/springs and tophats 04-08 Forester trailing arm brackets rear camber bolts the car is aligned at -.5F and 0R to help conserve the tires Wheels/Tires WINRACE TA Safari - Gravel in 15x7 ET50 Super Swamper Radial/TSL in 27x9.5x15 Rally innovations light bar/skidplate Hella FF1000 driving lights Primitive racing skidplate I consider items made for a specific vehicle with a brand name attached to be bolt on.IE ProDrive coilovers are bolt ons where Super Swamper boggers are not bolt ons because they are are not made for a specific vehicle.