Uberoo

I had a 91 (I think) subaru justy 4x4 RS(13" wheels vs 12").I loved it was the the most nimble little thing I have ever driven.within 2 days of owning I drove it down "old spiral highway" in lewiston at an average speed of 65 mph. that is the fastest ive been down it because everything else would wash out on the corners up top and I would have to slow way down.. However the justy has a fatal flaw.The shaft that drives the oil pump passes though an aluminum housing with NO BUSHING.As a result of that most justy engines died a quick death.I picked up mine with a thrown rod.I replaced the engine with one I got from the junkyard and it lasted a week.I was actually driving it down to the parts store to get an oil pressure gauge to monitor it.Oil pressure light flickered at a stop light,and a block latter it was siezed. its a great car,handles great,sips fuel-just you need to fix that bushing before you expect it to last long.

Ive had a intake manifold and wiring harness for a 93 subaru legacy sitting im my garage for a while just incase I wanted to put an EJ22 into my offroader. About two weeks ago I grabbed a long block from pull and save.however, stupid me I forgot to grab the bolts for the intake manifold-and the exhaust manifold gaskets... what is the thread size for those bolts?Length would be helpful but If I can find a bolt that will thread all the way down to the bottom I can figure out the length needed with my tape measure... Also would permatex ultra grey work as a gasket instead of the specified gaskets for the intake manifold?I'm down to my last $20 unless I can find another "handyman" type temp job...

what is a good object to use to permanently keep the tensioner compressed?Ive used small drill bits before to keep it compressed for a short time while installing them,but they seem to bend alittle bit, so not really ideal for long term use.

It would be nice but my rockers always seem to self clearance-thus giving me more ground clearance at the sides...

a friend actually got 15 HP on a dyno by plugging in an electric leaf blower and running it into his engine.it used the shop's AC...

I have a phase 1 non interference EJ22 that will be going into my EA81 body offroader.Im curious about running the timing covers or not.In the EA82 camp I normally remove the covers but I was advised not to remove the covers on any EJ series engine-interference or other wise. I have first hand experience with the covers on EA82 and EJ22's keeping coolant and oil from leaks in for the belt to run through.Ive also watched muddy water drain out of both EA82 and EJ covers after going mudding.I have also had to change the belt on EA82's or Ej22 and found lots of crap stuck in the covers. is there any reason why not to run covers on a non interference Ej22 other that because "debris" may wind up in the belts and skip time/break the belt?If that is the only problem than I can easily bring a spare belt.

for the price I like my welded diff.

I posted up a couple of pics for the heck of it.Now I probally should go work on putting my EJ22 in it...

Are pics in front of my house ok?My subaru is still covered in mud from the last outing,but the motor is blown,and its not pretty...

nice wagon BTW clear out your PM box.

if only it will stay puffed out.looks like an emblem underneath the skin...

Jb welded worked for a about a weekend then started slowly seeping water. I found a different engine because that engine wont stay in time no matter what I do.checked the distributor,the distributor drive gear on the crank,verified lock key is in place,verified rotor screw is in place and locked where it should be,etc. just picked up a long block that has 16 valves,displaces 2.2L,and only had 146K on it.Car it came out of slide into a ditch or something and bent 3 control arms and popped the air bag...

Oh ok thanks.

Ive used legacy studs on my EA81.I think the only difference between the studs is the length between some of them.

with a stock EJ22 you will have more than enough power even at idle that you shouldn't bog out even in the mud.A ej22 was designed to motivate a much larger and heavier car than the GL's before.On my EJ swapped 87 GL it made FWD pretty much useless until 4th gear.Like I said I could be driving at 25 mph in 3rd gear (like 2000 rpm) and punch the gas and incinerate the front tires. your buggy is so light that even on pavement in 4wd it might not hook up until 15 mph with a EJ22 if you launch hard... in the mud it should have enough power to keep your tires spinning even in that wet cement you call mud. the difference between a stock tired EA81 with a crapatchi and EJ22 is amazing.Pretty much twice as much power at any RPM as your EA81.

I have a stripped EJ22 harness and computer sitting in my garage,but its been so long since I stripped it that I forgot what year range it will work for.I think it is an early EJ22 harness because it only has 2 connectors for the engine on the left side instead of the two larger connectors + one small connector on the latter ones. so what year range legacy uses the two connector setup on the left side? Thanks in advance.

I thought the torque spec on that nut was 1/4 turn before the threads start stripping out?

car is in ruebins ID

when I was inspecting the distributor I looked at the drive gear down the hole where the disty went.It looked good.I even put the disty in without a cap just to see if the rotor was spinning...everything looks good. is the drive gear an integral part of the cam or was it pressed on or held on with a roll pin? Im just lost how a purely mechanical engine like a EA81 that has everything driven by gears and pushrods could have the timing slip.

I will pull the valve cover off when I get a chance and look at the gear.Right now the subi is at my friends house some 45 miles away because that is where it was towed to. Is there a roll pin in the cam gear that might have sheared?

the screw in the rotor is tight. cap is fine and the pin holding the distributor gear in place in fine if I grab the disty gear and the rotor and can move them maybe 1-2* as far as how much its jumping, anywhere from 90* out to 270* out.

Snow tires work great in gravel. other than the fact that they disappear into nothing in about 3 months in the summer...

do you have the O2 sensor and the knock sensor hooked up yet?

I have an Ea81 in my offroad toy.It has SPFI.Lately it seems to be jumping the timing at the distributor.Car will run fine and then all of the sudden it started running on two cylinders and backfiring through the intake.Check timing and it was way off.So readjust timing.ran for 2 minutes then back to two cylinders firing and backfiring through intake.I readjusted the timing again and now I haven't gotten it to start yet.I got it to "run" by pulling it with another vehicle.It would "run" only when it was gear.I could rev the engine up about 500 rpm from where it was being towed at but it would die if I took it out of gear. The teeth on the distributor are fine,the roll pin holding the distributor gear to the disty shaft is fine,the rotor is on tight,and the gear that drives the distributor is fine. Is the engine fixable or do I need to go on the hunt for another engine?