Uberoo

proper tools for the job are always better.I hate having street performance tires on a car in gravel.They feel like they offer no grip on the gravel.So confidence is way low so speeds are lower as a result.Thats just the way things are though. a gravel rally tire is crap on dry pavement,a performance summer tire sucks in gravel,a snow tire sucks at everything except in snow,a dry tire sucks in the wet,etc,etc...

I got a reckless driving ticket once and it was a $500 fine.Some counties may be different.so could be reckless. 10-15 over possibly could be $225 if not cited as reckless.excessive acceleration is out because you were all driving old subies. So maybe racing? So what DID you guys get hit with?

nice brat.Looks pretty clean.its worlds cleaner than my old 84 brat. I got rid of my my brat because it seemed cursed.Mine kept eating its engines.

I used to live in pocatello.about 7 years ago now I think. regarding any question about your GEN 1 brat-the best forum would be the historic forum, seconded by the older gen forum because some stuff crosses over. while a 1980 brat is technically older gen most of the powertrain belongs in historic-ie EA71,single range 4wd...

pictars?

I live in lewiston so if you have any free time feel free to swing by.Right now my only subaru is my offroad toy,then I have an old datsun as a rally beater/DD.Anyway if you want to come by and learn abit more about subaru's or talk about whatever...Just send me a PM after you post a few more times or send a visitor message..

is it still gonna be EJ powered?

When I set it in there I bashed out the floor as much as I could to get it to sit higher.But the T case is sitting lower than it could be because I didn't cut a hole for the breather to go through.not to mention I set it way far back after the end of the seat mounts, So I could probably move it forward about 4-6 inches and up 3".Right now the T case is about 12-13" off the ground. its set far back because I set the input flange on the transfer case about an inch behind the seat mounts,because I didn't know that the U joint for the big nissan stuff would fit in the subaru tunnel. I probably can rework it and the sheet metal above it to at least get the transfer case level or slightly higher than the front diff.

Anyone have any pics of how and where there Tcase is in there subarus?I have mine in, but its sitting too far back and way too low.So now I seem to be dragging it through the mud.As it sits right now it is about 15" from the rear diff.It sits lower than the front diff and higher than the rear diff.Its a nissan transfer case so the handle in 2HI sits right at the back of the cubby in between the front seats.I am thinking of reworking the mount tomorrow, to raise it up and bring it closer to the middle of the car. I am looking for any suggestions for this that doesn't involve making new seat mounts.So if anyone has any pics of how there Tcase was set in place it would be helpfull. My car is an 83 wagon with 8" of lift. in this pic you can see where my transfer case currently sits. EDIT: in the last couple of hours Ive been looking through member's pics with T cases.So far all ive been able to find is turbone's hatch has the T case mounted in the center of the car and pretty high up,but no indication of how much bashing or cutting was needed to get it there. I looked at some pics of subarubrat's 12" lifted brat, but the transfer case seemed to be mounted very high up, or simply was not mounted in the side pics I could find.. I looked through roonater's gallery and couldn't find any side pics or any pics that showed the existence of a T case.So good job there hiding it like that.

seconded

I have two fans on my offroader.Both came from a 90 nissan pulsar.I had to modify the frame of the fans to fit in front of the radiator.I dun't know how much air they push but its alot.I can turn them on at 35 mph and still cool the car down.

its doable but unless the body is MINT than its too much effort, especially when 4wd Xts can be found fairly easily..

are you gonna make that into a motorhome or something?

might need a bit of clearancing.those tires look like they might rub a little on the inside..zzz what size tires are those?

I only applied one coat.the rustoleum paint is really strong especially if you let it cure before scratching it.My friend painted his truck about 2 weeks ago and you could barely tell where the scratch marks were aside from the marks in the dust/dirt on the rig, despite he broke trail.Mine cured for about 1/2 day and it held up better than most single stage automotive paints.Most of the scratches probably could literally be buffed out.touch up is really easy for the spots that wont come out because the paint bonds well to metal and even better to other paint,just a scotch brite pad to scuff up the area around then apply more paint..

I had some rustoeum hunter green in a quart just taking up space in my room.So I mixed in a little bit of rustoeum black.Then thinned the paint with some paint thiner.Then A friend sprayed the car with his paint gun.It turned out really nice.I let it dry for about a half day.Then I proceeded to SCRATCH THE EVER LIVING HELL OUT OF IT when I took the car up a heavily over grown track on a mountain. the "track" used to be a tunnel access road for the railroad,but the railroad has been closed down for quite some time.The track was very steep and sadly very short but it was still lots of fun.I didn't get any pics of up there,I wanted to, but my phone chose that moment to die. My friend got a few cell phone pics that are up on his bookface.Maybe next weekend we will head up there again and get some better pics with some camera's.As for now here is a couple pics of the paint job.I went from silver,black,grey,rust to a dark green with lots of scratches.Still its a big improvement... Before: After:

tempo= any front springs-when i put them under my ej swapped EA82 wagon,I cut a full coil out and it STILL lifted the front end an inch.in your case you may need to cut more. accord+ I think mine came from an 89 automatic with AC.I believe the automatic/ac cars are the springs you want.Front springs as well. no idea on 4 runner parts.

I fixed some stuff,then I broke some stuff: all the brake pieces in my LR drum,My rear driveshaft got knocked out of balance that cracked a small section of the mount for the transfer case and broke a weld for my rear diff mount... wheel,break,fix/upgrade,repeat.......

while we are on the subject of axles how strong would EA82 front axles be in a non steering application?I played around with a spare front EA82 axle and it could provide 10" of wheel travel before it totally binds up.So probally 8" on a car.Its biggest restriction was the inner DOJ.The inner DOJ wouldn't flex worth a crap. Ea81 rear axles probally can tolerate maybe 5-6" of vertical travel, because they are short and have DOJ's at both ends. is there a CV that can tolerate high angles AND plunge?

turns out that the area around the adjuster was packed so full of dirt that it couldn't possibly move. vacuumed all that out.Now to lower it so hopefully it isnt as stiff.

I tried to use a jack to compress the suspension and check for clearance but that just lifted up the car without compressing the suspension.So I used a come along to pull the wheel into the fender.I pulled the wheel until it was about 4" from my fender. at that point I thought the cables would break on the come along.it didn't rub on anything.This car before I put the 31's on cleared 235's with only the torsion bar cranked up with lots of fender bashing.Now it has an 8" lift at all the cross members so it should be fine. only thing I regret is that the come along put a big dent in the car,but it was already beat up anyway.

all of the times Ive broken axles have been at low throttle.Im not one to floor the gas pedal at any chance I get.. the axle I exploded the rear diff was on a rock and the left rear tire was tucked into the fender when the left axle exploded. The lastest axle broke when I tried to crawl up a steep hill made out of compacted sand.was going up it slowly and then SNAP.broke the bell and shattered the retainer... all the other axle breaks have cracked the outer bell. all the breaks seems to happen when the rear suspension is compressed.if my rear axles are sitting flat at normal ride height I wonder if my axles have too much angle on them when compressed?

Ask and ye shall receive: unfortunately they are only garage pics.The only pic I have of it offroad with its new altitude was when all the bolts holding the left rear on got loose and the tire fell off.Not a very good look for it all... as far as the bolt goes to make sure Im not a complete idiot(parts are missing) to lower the rear end I need to turn the bolt counter clock-wise looking at it from above right?

I removed both shocks entirely from the car still no change in ride hight.Although the left shock was so blown that as soon as I removed the top bolts it collapsed under its weight.The right side is just fine...oh well.Now nothing is holding the back end up aside from the torsion bar. is it possible that the adjusting center section could be caught on something and not releasing?Ive tried hammering on the torsion assembly but no change.

I put my 3/16 pin punch in the hole when I reinstall an axle before I tap in the pin.If the pin punch wont easily go in all the way then its off by a tooth or 180* off. Now I only have trouble with pins in cars in junkyard with the original axles..