Uberoo

breaking just the stubs might be better, because I can fit 10-20 of them in my tool box without taking up too much room... But then if the stubs break flush with the diff and the end of the axle it would be a pain to fish the pieces out to install new stubs..

I can jump on the back end and it moves a fair bit.Then comes back up...Although the RR does seem to be stiffer than the driver side

When I first lifted my EA81 wagon, I put 2" blocks on the front struts and cranked up the rear torsion bar. Now I have a full 8" lift on everything.In addition to that I removed alot of weight from the car.So I would like to adjust the torsion bar all the way down and re clock the splines to regain the height that would be lost.Problem is Im turning the adjusting bolt (counter-clockwise) and its coming out of the torsion bar assembly with no appreciable height difference. What would cause that, and how to fix it? I need the back end to be softer. I unloaded my car off my trailer without ramps.So the tires dropped about a foot then landed on the ground.The rear was rock hard and the front was nice as soft the way IFS should be..So with the rear so stiff its gotta be killing wheel travel..

thank you I didn't know the difference in construction between earlier and later.I just thought the latter stuff was stronger because it was a little bigger.

whats broke? left lower ball joint in the front tie rods are bent both rear brake cylinders left rear wheel worked itself loose-tore up the mounting holes in the rim,destroyed the studs, and destroyed all brake components on that tire. broken rear axle cracked taillight missing high beam light driver's sanity...

before I installed a divorced transfer case I never broke a rear axle on my EA81.Never in 4 years of offroading ea81s.Now with the transfer case and 31's I snap the rear axles like a twig every time I go play.With in the time span of about about 2 weeks I have Exploded a rear inner DOJ,and broke two separate inner DOJ's.Ive run out out of spare axles parts so now I need to make a run to pull and save to find some more spare parts.while I am up there I might as well upgrade the axles if I can. Ive heard of EA81 shafts with EA82 DOJ's at both ends.So that might be a possible fix.Early legacies have the same style rear diff any one tried putting the legacy DOJ on an EA81 axle shaft? I know questions like these are the kind of question monstaru likes to flame me about, but pull and save is 2 hours and some change away.So I can't really just go and return a part that wont work.especially now that im driving my moms suburban around because the towing company I bought my car from is jerking me around when it comes to the title... before I used to worry about my front axles,both of my fronts have torn boots and click when I turn yet they have easily outlasted the rears... when I set the car up I lost a couple inches of ground clearance to make sure all axles were flat to try avoiding this problem.

is there a bigger version of the post 81 one?

I am NEVER moving east of the rockies.The most rusted car Ive owned had its fenders eaten away by road grim getting stuck to them.even still it was only the last 2" of the fenders before the tires.Underbody was clean. My offroader sat in a field for years so it has some small holes in the rails under the doors...and its an 83.The main subframes under the car are just fine. good luck fixing all that.

I can't see any pics but it is possible for a push rod to "slip" off its indent in its holder on the cam, usually because of very loose valves.When it slips off it will get stuck on the block and hold its corresponding valve slightly open. undo the 17 mm bolts and make sure all pushrods are properly seated in there indents in there holders.hold them in place while you bring the rocker assembly to contact. I unfortunatly haven't adjusted the valves on any my subaru's for a while so I can't help you with clearance numbers or procedures...sorry.The last engine I set the valve lash on was an 82 mazda diesel...

remove sway bar

pictars?

you think thats bad ive forgotten how long ago I had a functioning muffler.

Heres mine.Its alittle more broke than usual. I just got back from an offroad party up north. While I was up there: I exploded a rear axle cup trying to drive around a mega broke jeep buggy thing,When that happened I had to get pulled off a rock to turn around and go down the trail that pull swung my passenger side into the front end of the jeep buggy-putting a massive dent in my rear passenger door and breaking my right taillight. I had these shock mounts for the rear that I bought at an offroad store,both of them broke, so Im gonna return them and build some mounts that are much stronger. then at some point I broke the other rear axle(didn't explode it though).So my car is all sorts of broke right now. Specs: 83 Subaru GL wagon removed the roof after the C pillars 8" lift EA81 SPFI legacy radiator 5 speed DR Nissan transfer case 4.11 diffs out of a legacy,the rear one is welded 31 10.50 15 mud tires both rear axles are broke,This pic is just the rear diff mount. up front showing my skidplate. worst thing about breaking that stuff was I had spare parts,just they didn't make it into the truck when I left lewiston.

YA ITS ALIVE!!!!! finaly got the motor running in my transfercase lifted rig. its wierd. I now have traction issues in RWD with the 31's,before I stalled in FWD with the 235's...

Got all the leaks patched up now I can't get the damned thing in time so it will start.Closest ive gotten in about an hour of fiddling had it hitting on two cylinders, while the other two were fighting the other ones...

just fixed another crack on the back of the block,near the oil fill tube. Are the heads prone to cracking if water freezes? also what is the best way to drain all the water from an engine so I don't have to do this again.

so turns out that the block cracked as well near the disty.I ground out the crack with my dremel,and Im gonna try to fix it with JB weld.Hopefully that works, if I can ever get water to stop seeping from the crack...

Are there any other freeze plugs other than the 6 under the valve covers?Pulled the valve covers and one plug from the driver's side was popped out and two from the passenger side were popped out.So before I try to fill it with coolant again I need to know if any more plugs exist.

if one of the freeze plugs was cracked or broken how would that explain the water in the intake?

that little bit of water did freeze the water pump solid though.

So I had this "good" EA81 engine.I ran it before for a little bit but never with any coolant. yesterday I filled it up with coolant to drive it. took 2 gallons of antifreeze and 2 gallons of water.I never measured or paid attention to the coolant capacity,but 4 galloms seemed a bit extreme. so anyway I go to start it and water comes out of the intake,exhaust, and oil fill cap simultaneously. So after a few choice words.I drained the milkshake out of everything.not to mention pulling the plugs and cranking it over to get all the water out. before I ran it with no coolant it ran just fine for the limited time I had it running.after I drained everything and put some old oil in it ran fine after all the electronics dried out. Could a massivly blown intake manifold gasket have caused this?I just swapped on my SPFI manifold and I used new dealer gaskets,could one or both of them have not seated correctly or something? also when it ran after all of this it blew lots of emulsified oil out the tailpipe,I didn't run it long enough for the smoke to clear out so that may be related to water in everything,but I thought it might be worthwille to mention. I am at a loss as to what could have massively failed on the engine. it would have to have a massivly blown headgasket for the coolant to go into the oil and the combustion chamber that quick.A massive leak like that would certainly drop the compression enough to be noticable.The engine didn't run like it had low compression either before or afterwards. cracked block or heads? possible but a crack affecting the oil, coolant, and intake?seems a bit unlikely.Not to mention that such a crack would also cause a noticeable drop in compression. Badly blown or not sealed intake gaskets?seems possible, water would leak into the intake,fill the combustion chambers, then backfill up the intake until the top of the intake where the PCV hoses are and drain into the oil.Thats the only explaination I can come up with.Even then I saw no leakage occuring on the outside of the intake gaskets. In the times I ran the engine with no coolant it never got warm or even close. I would be very suprised if the total time of all the times the engine ran with no coolant added up to a minute -thirty.not to mention it wasn't reved during that time.Basiclly enough to varify that the spark plugs were set right on the distributor and to drive it on a trailer was all the engine ever ran.When it drove on the trailer it was -10*f outside.. any other ideas?Thanks in advance.

turns out the seal got some oil or something on it and it expanded alot.Once I got that taken care of it went right in.

the last time I saw it, it still had a body.

Any ideas why might be causing it get hung up?One of my plans to get it together backfired and the clip lock broke,and it still wont go in.