Uberoo

where did you unplug the vaccum line?

No, I didn't change the manifold, I changed engines under the manifold. I can't think of any reason why it wont go back together.Its like I unplugged something and now it wont go back together. didn't chnage any of the components.theres no debris in the connector and the pins are straight so Im a bit lost.

EA81 with a 2 in suspension lift eats axles like candy.Ive always heard that the EA82's could take that sort of angle much better,and that a 2" suspension lift on an EA82 was fine.

On an 89 SPFI setup there are two main connectors that connects the intake manifold harness to the rest of the wiring harness.For some reason I just can't seem to get the large connector to click together.I can get the connector together and almost connected but I can't seem to get the final 1/8" or so pushed in far enough that the connector will lock.Its not a question of slack, I have plenty of that.All the pins look straight and there isn't any debris in the connector so Im a bit stumped as to why this connector wont go together. never really had this much trouble with a connector before,Ive been fusing with the connector for about 10 minutes now.For some reason it will not push in far enough to click together no matter what I try.

the lift angle is 7.5* because the stut mounting plate and its corespeonding body mount is angled at 7.5*.If you don't angle blocks or offset the bolts then the outside of the tire gets pushed out, like this \ /.with the offset it lowers the strut vertically. if your not set on 3" you can run 2" suspension lift on a EA82 for a long time without too many issues.And a 2" suspension lift does add clearance even if you don't run bigger tires.it raises the crossmember up 2". a 2" suspension lift on an EA82 has like 8 total pieces. 6 2x2 sections for the front struts and some flat stock for the rear..

Im in the process of finishing up a Tcase lift.

its an old thread but I might as well throw in my $0.02. It is really fun driving subaru's offroad just from the reactions you get when you make it up/threw some crazy obstacle. Ive driven more capible rigs offroad before.They are just no fun because they arn't challanging. Just drive the damned thing up the trail without any real regard to line or tire placement.With subaru's its different.Its alot like playing chess and I like that.gotta pick your line and place your tires carefully or you will get stuck or break something. will a subaru outwheel everything,not even close.although it is fun to make it to the top of something only to find out that several jeeps/toys/chevies etc with much bigger tires and more money into them had problems with,and you just waltzed right up something..

facebook wont let me see the video without an account. Sad face.

a 5 speed DR takes 2.8 quarts of 75-90 GL-5 oil or hypoid gear oil of the same rating right?

Needs MOAR lift!

I wouldn't have been able to test stuff because the car is apart. the dash and all its switches is in the back seat, as well as the instrument cluster. BUT, I found out that #1 is the seat belt warning system from orielly auto parts web site. #2 is the fuel pump control unit,but my fuel pump is ran by the relay on the SPFI harness. #3 is the turn signal relay. and #4 is the headlight relay according to crazyeights so 1&2 get nixed. thanks everybody.

I have an 83 Gl wagon.It has a EA81 with a SPFI conversion.A while back I started having proplems where the car would just die on me for no reason. So I pulled the dash and the harness. So I could fix the harness and better mount my ecu. Turns out a wire on the engine side of harness had slipped out of its wire loom and rubbed a hole through the insulation. anyway for as long as Ive had the car several relays have always been dangling from the dash above the pedals,so while the dash is out its probally a good idea to remove some of those relays. First up: second one,it has a mitsubishi logo on it: third: and finally the forth: all of them are near the pedals or steering wheel.Thanks in advance.

It sucks getting a flat in the middle of nowhere out wheeling.Happened to me once and I had to leave my car over the night.Came back up the next morning with a truck,trailer and a spare.then the trailer got a flat...

you can use accord front springs from like an 89 with AC for stiffer springs in the back as well. for the record, the car that I had those springs on had a 1" suspension lift. tempo springs up front and accord springs in the back.. note: my tempo springs came from a V6 tempo so that might explain why a coil had to be cut off.

how about this?I now have a different EA81 in there,and its fuel injected but other than that its stock..and it has a hood.

cool vids.is there no sound or are my speakers broke?

Yes, I used the tempo springs on my Ea82 wagon with the EJ22. I cut one coil off and it still lifted the front an inch. Even with the EJ22 up front. tempo springs are great on offroaders if your adding steel bumpers,winches,and EJ22's But it would certainly stiffen up the ride and remove any sag. for a stock replacement you might need to cut 1.5 or 2 coils off the top.

Cut the radious rod in half.then find a piece of tube that fits snug over the rod then weld it solid with how ever much length you need. when I put on EA82 control arms and struts and axles on my EA81 I extended the radious rod 1.5"

ok, how much more travel is possible with EA82 DOJs on a Ea81 shaft?

For an 8" lifted creature what did you do for rear shocks?On my 8" lifted EA81 I was trying to fit some ford explorer shocks that a friend gave me.Then I test fitted them to my car.They have the correct lenght but they would only have 2" of down travel before they would bottom out.seems like that would kill alot of the cars ability offroad.So what did you all use for shocks on your lifted beasts, did you find a junkyard part,order some new ones, or just space the shock away from the body? eventually I would like to run hybrid stretchy axles but for now I could just run limiting straps so I don't over extend the axles. Thanks in advance. also what is a good shock size to run with stretchy axles, at least as far as travel goes?

I know that.I said photo"chop" not photo"shop". So why did they stop?

why did the sweet photchops stop?

its fairly easy to strip the harness down. as your removing the harness from the doner vehicle cut any wires and connecters that are not related to the engine IE headlights,turn signals,heater core wires,etc. once you strip the harness most of those cut wire will just drop out of the harness. pull the fuse box from the doner along with the harness it may be usefull later. THIS is VERY important: In the process of removing the wires from the harness that you cut while removing it from the car the wire may merge into other wires.Cut the wire off BEFORE(or after depending on your prespective) the merge and leave the other wires in the merge alone. so if your following a wire and it merges cut that wire off at the merge, but leave the connection with the other wires at the merge intact eventually you will wind up with wires that go from the computer to the engine senors,and some various wires from the computer that got cut. some of those wires are for things like AC(if you didn't want the AC and cut the harness at the AC componets),most of those wires might be stuff you have to feed power to,so don't cut them short near the computer unless you are 100% sure that wire is not needed for your setup.IE AC or automatic transmission wires if going into a manual... BTW I do happen to have a stripped harness that will fit a 91 EJ22.PM me an offer if interested.the harness is setup to go into a manual transmission vehicle with no ac.

Im not familar with how subaru MPFI is setup but couldn't you pull the fuel rails connect the electronics and fuel lines to the rails then turn the key on with the injectors pointing in a bucket to see if they leak?

could always slot the holes where the strut mounts up top and beat the sheet metal to clear.would be a shame not to use those nice axles you have...