Uberoo

Ive managed to get the axles to come out by: beating the hell out of it with a hammer(like a crackhead,hard and fast) while turning the axle.Then spraying alot of penetrating fluid on it.then some more beating... Ive heard that if you drive out the roll pins and drive around the block for a while it will loosen them up a bit.may need to put it in 4wd and launch it hard,and floor it around corners...

I think it should be finished but do away with the nissan frame.instead build a subframe that conforms to the car much better then mount the nissan stuff to that. Looks great other than I don't like the "dual bumper" setup alot of vehicles set on different frame get.

ive been so busy with school lately i haven't had a chance to do much of anything lately.ive hardly even been n the forums... maybe latter today i can get some posted.sorry about the lack of pictars.

looks good but it might be worth replacing the rear bumper mounts with something a bit more substantial if your going to use the rear bumper as a recovery point. Oh and add some big rubber mats for mud flaps.Gotta keep the PO's happy.

are the bumpers getting painted?

I just finished up doing a 8" transfer case lift on my 83 EA81 wheeler. My stock exhaust needs to be modified to fit,but I don't have access to a welder anymore unless I can drive the beast somewhere to have an exhaust put on. I need to know a minimum safe length for the Exhaust "headers" so I wont damage the exhaust valves. thanks in advance. I can deal with loud,I have a problem with sucked/burned/warped valves.

the fuel pump relay could be starting to die.which would intermittently kill the fuel pump.

I used to run my 235/75/15's at about 25-27 psi for in town driving.with my tires they "looked about right" at that psi.the sidewall wasn't squished and the tread pattern under the tire was flat. but then I was probably 2400 lbs with my striped out and cut EA81... I bet 35 PSI in my tires would be one rough riding sun of a...

You win. Im too po for a video camera other than the cheapo one on my cell phone. My bad,I thought you cared about tires and were just makinging it up regardless but seeing as they are old AT's BURN AWAY then.

I have a similar idea on how to fix mine.I plan to cut off the studs from the mount then drill all the way through and run a big bolt through the entire thing. the studs are M10x1.25 right?

did ZAP sell that car? the first pic I was like "just pop her in 4wd and she will make it up that!" then I saw the remaining pics... good thing those bushes where there or it woulda rolled and/or crashed into the house. So I bet now your gonna go fix the handbrake pretty soon huh?

try 3m window weld. its black uruthane.You have to use a calking gun to apply it,and it HAS TO BE WARM.like leave the container in hot water for like 30 minutes. just use that and glue your mount back together.let it dry for a day minimum (2-4 days is ideal).All said and done it should hold for about a year or so.More if you arnt heavy on the throttle at all times...

have you been cold idleing the car?gas has been known to wash past the rings on cold engines that are idling.Just a thought.

Lessions for doing a transfer case lift: put motor and transmission is as an assembly.Before you do that however measure the transmission crossember and make some mounts that places the transmission in the center of the tunnel.Then with the engine and transmission together and in the the engine bay. bolt the transmission to the mounts you just made THEN measure where the engine should sit.Now you can tack the engine mounts.Pull the powertrain and do final welding.Then you can reinsert powertrain at your leasure. What ever you do don't make the engine mounts then the transmission mounts.Bolt holes wont line up and in some cases will be very far off- like an inch or more. so when I should be making the transfer case mounts I have to pull the engine out AGAIN and torch the mounts then start again.its especially frustrating when I only have the welder until sunday night,and the metal store closes at 3:30 on saturday.so learn from my mistakes and follow order of operations.

no offense but it only looked like the subi made it up because it was driven by someone crazy enough or just didn't care to drive it on the ragged edge.Example: all the tire,brake, and clutch smoke in the videos. still though it looked like a hell of a lotta fun.next time air the tires down,and run the welded diff. with the welded diff it would have went up it with no drama and less tire smoke... :burnout: :burnout: rather than like that.Although burnouts are cool as long as your not buying the tires...

Ive been slowly gathering all the parts to install a divorced nissan transfer case into my 84 subaru GL.Im going with an 8" lift and I will be running some 31x10.50 15 mud tires with 4.11 gears.Ive had the 8" lift pieces in for a while just not connected or anything.This week I was finaly able to borrow my friends welder and start connecting all the blocks and building the sub frame. I have alot more to do but so far I have all the lift blocks in place,they are all connected with 2x3 3/16 steel tubing.the lift blocks themselves are 2x8 1/4 square tubeing.I have the front mount of the front diff done on the crossmember.Also I made a steering extension that works perfectly. I got the steering extension to work with one u joint by removing the steering column and extending the splines 3-4" up the shaft with my dremel.The splines now start at the firewall.Then the shaft was cut so that the shaft only comes out about an inch and half out of the firewall.Basically enough that the U joint can fit on the shaft with about 1/8" before the firewall.it turns fine with no binding at all. moving the U joint that much closer to the firewall lessened the angle the u joint must turn through by just enough that it won't bind. I still need to make the mounts for the engine,transmission, transfer case, make the rear diff hanger and make the final piece of the front diff hanger.alot more work but now I have a welder to use so I can make progress. hopefully I can get started on the motor and transmission mounts tommarow.I was gonna do it today but a motor mount broke so I am waiting for the 3m window weld urathane to dry on my ghetto fixed motor mount.. its still on on 235/75/15's so it will sit even higher. steering extension.Im gonna paint it black when everything else is done.thought red would look good but it would just look tacky. empty engine bay awaiting spfi swaped EA81 and 5 speed DR.front section of front diff mount is low in the picture on the crossmember.Its rear mount is going in after the engine and transmission mounts are in. more updates later.

what about cutting up some stock subaru driveshafts from the junkyard?that or some old nissan driveshafts.

Ok.thanks!

behind? like in the back seat area? Fantastic!

Has anyone been able to retain the handbrake and install a divorced nissan transfer case?I have a transfer case out of a 720 pickup but it looks like the transfer case shifter will come out right where the handbrake and its cables run.Right now I use the handbrake as a poor man's limited slip when a front wheel spins offroad.With a diff up front I will be able to find a 3.7 LSD and put it in the 4.11 case,but until that happens what have you all done to keep the handbrake? Thanks in advance.Now to go tack up the motor and transmission mounts..

3/8" alumunum is strong but it can be bent. 3/16 aluminum is about as strong an 1/8" steel plate.

If you go and ask people in the parking lot take everything with a grain of salt.People have always told me I wouldn't make it in a subaru- just to have their jaws drop to floor when I waltz over/through something. Even better if you can walk some of the trails.it will give you a very good idea of the trail.then you can decide to run it or not.

Ive seen 3/8" aluminum plates bend and smash the oil pan pan anyway.land a car on a big rock and it will bend .If you can easily bend a piece of metal than so can a rock,branch,stump,etc if you hit it just wrong.. Ive seen people run big skid plates with a steel frame as well.I dunno I would rather have a plate be a bit overkill than buy a new engine or transmission. No Im am not on crack.or weed, or even beer ( ) if im on crack than monstaru is on meth.he certainly acts like it.

seeing as you are basically ralling I would run what the rally cars run.3/8" aluminum.You will need to have a shop bend it because its way to thick to think about bending it yourself.Make a cardboard mock up then measure angles and where the bends should be then go to a shop with those measurements. alternately build it out of 1/8" steel plate.Then weld some 1/2" angle iron to the bottom of it running front to rear to act as stiffening ribs.. the 1/8" steel you can bend yourself (with some difficulty with a vice and a hammer) run the angle iron like this: _________ \/ \/ \/ 3 or 4 full length welded ribs should would great.The angle iron needs to be welded continuously. so no stitch welding.Just don't warp the plate...

fancy.mag wheels...