Uberoo

Some info on the engine: It's from an 82 GL wagon. It's currently completely disassembled, and just about ready for me to start putting it back together, but I've got some questions so here goes: 1. So the metal EGR hose that goes between the head and the intake manifold has been cut and crimped before I got it. I would assume this renders the EGR system useless. So can I take off the EGR valve and make a plate to cover the hole? Is it worth the work? Why not?removing the EGR mess can help in simplifying the engine bay.While your at it ditch the ASV system as well.The holes in the exhaust manifold can be sealed by unscrewing the nut that holds the tubes in and sticking a quarter in place of the tube then tightening everything back up again. 2. I'm toying with the idea of swapping out the intake manifold for an ea82 carby one. Is it pretty much plug and play? yep plug and play provided you have an EA81 rather than EA71.USE DEALER intake gaskets cause the after market ones SUCK and are prone to failure. 3. Is there any other junk I can eliminate from the carb? I don't have to worry about emissions - I'm looking to get the best mpg possible. Ditch the stock EA81/EA82 carb and put a weber on it.You get rid of a ton of vacuum lines and can tune the weber how you like it. 4. What is the best way to get the oil pickup tube to come out of the block? vise grips? pliers? 5. I'm also putting a 5spd in the car. I've read mentions of Jerry's kit. What does it consist of? Is it essential for the swap or does it just make it easier? makes it easier.However,I am not sure whats really is in the kit because I didn't use it when I put my five speed in. 6. I don't know what to call it, but on my 5spd tranny the place where the shifter anchors (at the bottom of the stick) is pretty worn out. Is there a place to get new parts for this? the rubber piece? shifter bushing?pics might help here.One sure fire way to fix that would be to go to the junkyard and find a better piece than what you have. Thanks for any help, I may have more questions as things progress, but this is all I can think of right now. sure, no problem.

I recommend hood pins so you hood doesn't fly up and smash whats left of your windshield. with no window you could just wear ski goggles though... Awesome video through!

could be a seized idler or pully, so check them all before you install a belt.

a brownie box behind the subaru trans wouldnt work very well because the stock subi trans is Fwd then 4wd. with the brownie box behind the transmission your front and rear gear ratio's wouldn't be the same so it would bind up if you tried to use 4wd. however people have installed a divorced transfer case behind the subi trans, but that requires a ton of work,and a rear diff mounted up front...

its coming along great.Got the clutch changed out and it is very fun car to drive.now if the tow company would stop dragging their a55 and send a bill of sale to the DMV I could drive the thing...

gee I must be missing out then.My daily driver is RWD... ...and I wouldn't have it any other way. my subaru is soon to be RWD,with the option of shifting into 4wd...

I can personally vouch for the need for awd with the ej engines. I had a ej22 swapped EA82 wagon with the DR 5 speed.in FWD it would incinerate both front tires in 3rd gear at 25 mph if I punched the gas.It was hell in the lower gears to get it moving without burning the tires to the cords.But DAMN it was fun when it hooked up...

How are the "electric snow plows" working for you?Why not set them on top of the bumper then you could get hella's without breaking them off.

good luck with that.I dont see SOA coming out with a DR again.

no reverse in low?sometimes the transmission will pop out of reverse in low range with the 4 speed.possibly because of bad or worn bushings or synchro's in the transmission.Try holding the stick in reverse when in 4lo and see if that helps.

if you have any trouble balancing the tires you can try putting in a few airsoft bb's in them for "dynamic balancing".Theres a chart somewhere online that will tell how much weight is needed to balance a tire this way.I think the tires on my truck (235-285/75/16) require about 500 BB's a tire.Its a little more expensive up front than conventional balancing but I got my tires 2.5 years ago and have never needed to balance them. very smooth riding tires.despite the fact that I haven't rotated them either they all wore very evenly aswell. Ive heard that swampers are the worst to balance.Any offroad tire is tough to balance by conventional means when you go offroad and knock the wheel weights off or get mud packed on the rim... So it might be worth checking into the bb's.use the plastic airsoft bb's so they don't rust together... just need to drive faster than 20 mph for the balancing to work.but the balance doesn't get thrown off when the tire is packed full of mud either.

I have an 83 GL wagon that I pulled the steering column out to do some work on it.The works all done but now I can't quite get the steering column all the into its proper place in the firewall.Is there something I should be doing to make it easier?I don't want to break anything by pushing to hard. thanks in advance.

how about home cheepo louvers rather than a scoop?

there is one vacuum line on the carb. it should be down low near the base.Thats for the disty.There should be a single line that goes into the firewall.that line may split if you have cruise control. If you have the intake manifold off you can remove the vacuum loom under the manifold as well as a whole bunch of sensors/mechanical devices for making the 5hitachi function.

not all FWD vehicles are good in the snow.I had a 93 legacy 4d sedan that was Fail wheel drive.even with brand new snows it wouldn't make it up any the hills around here.The car understeered badly so you would loose all of your speed/momentum coming into a corner.Then the poor thing would struggle for every inch of forward movement out of the corners.Even in 5th gear it would overload the front tires and you would start slowing down.It was common to have the car going less than walking speed up a hill. I remember thinking that I never had any problems like that in my RWD's so I switched over and haven't looked back. however .*some* fwds are good in the snow.my first car was an 87 saab 900S and it would happily push snow up to the headlights on summer tires...

convert EA82 to 1,000 aluminum cans to help pay for ej swap...

you can connect the two PCV hoses to a T connection then connect that to the airbox.The only vaccum line that is needed is a vacuum advance on the distributor and the line for the heater.Everything else can be removed.

I must be insane then.My daily driver is RWD with a welded rear diff and it does just fine in the snow.Then again I live in the mountains and FWD sucks on the steep hills around here. any 2wd car will be fine in the snow as long as you know how to drive it and have snow tires. Why would you put weight in the back of a FWD subaru wagon?Thats more weight working against your front tires.I don't even put weight in the back of my RWD vehicles. RWD cars: 1993 volvo 240- welded diff,1982 datsun 200sx-open for now.Both cars are manual.

4 ply tractor tires so its about the same.

The design of ATV/UTV/tractor tires makes the tires not suited for going much more than 25 mph on any hard surface.Those tires are made out of really soft rubber with large distances between sections of tread.Atv's are constantly driven on dirt roads,yes.the hard surface of the road wears out the tires much faster than if the tire was driven on its intended surface,ie mud or loose dirt. So for that reason if you plan to run aggressive tires like that just change them out when you get there.It takes maybe all of 30 minutes to change out all 4.Less if you have air tools. I ran a set of tractor tires like that for a summer and they still had the little rubber bits left over from the casting and the tread was worn down less than 1/16" of an inch.Or you can leave the tires on all around and destroy them in a season- even though "its only a couple of miles." Remember atv tires despite their weight ratings are made out of a rubber similar to erasers,and erasers, at least for me don't last long at all. the tires are ;however, fantastic at doing what they were made for-driving on loose,soft surfaces...

both. run the 9" tires on the front and the 11's on the back.

I don't have any tools for measuring angles or thread pitches.Even if I did I don't know the max angle that the steering joint(s) can work at.Maybe rather than being a wongleflute about it you could say: the joints only can take 20* of deflection before they bind up bad.So do some math and find out if the will work in your appiation so much better than yelling to mesure parts...

how is that trolling? one eyes post wasnt very clear on if the double joints in the stock setup bound up or not.It sounds like he had to move the column downwards and use double joints to get it work. regarding the brakes what size are the fittings at least for the front?

so a 6" lift with double joints binds up still? or did I read that wrong?if 6" double joints will work I suppose I could modify the firewall so the shaft comes out 2" lower.

I have 2X8 blocks on the crossmembers.Then the struts are getting 8" to match the crossmembers(no suspension lift).