Uberoo

1984 EA81 Toy broken engine(cracked piston rings) bolts holding RF caliper on broke off LR brake is broken But I have a new to me parts car with all that and MORE!!!!

Im posting this for a friend of mine. He has an 81 FWD hatch with the EA71. All of the dash lights are on and the car constantly stalls.It will fire up immediately after it stalls then it will stall again in 1-5 minutes. Im thinking the alternator or the regulator is bad, but I haven't heard of a bad alternator stalling a carbed engine. Any idea what would cause the the stalling?Im thinking if either the alt or the reg went bad it would somehow take power away from the coil or ignition and somehow stop it from fireing?

My DD has a welded rear diff,but it also has a solid rear axle...I know the stubs are weak on the subaru diffs.For street I would install that LSD.

if your gonna go solid axles build a subframe for everything to mount to.If you just stick car on 4x4 frame,it is just a 4x4 with a car bodykit. IE subaru on toyota frame=toyota with subaru bodykit.

snorkel and forester struts

1983 Subaru Gl 2" lift 235/75/15 MT's SPFI conversion EA82 front suspension 5 speed DR EJ22 radiator removed roof after C pillar half doors mangled steel bumper clean not so clean

we get kumho's and other tires here.but imported tires are taxed the bajesus out of.The american tires are so expensive your kinda stuck between a rock and a hard place.

2nded

Needs moar steel bumper.

all the holes for the 4wd stuff should be there. Some models don't have all the holes drilled so you would have to drill those if it doesn't have them... you will need a 4wd gas tank if you don't already have one unless you are lifting it at the same time.

any vids of scotts creation?

2" stacks out the bed!

on my current set I ground out the bevel.Then to my dismay the holes werent perfect so it was forcing the lugs crooked.so I just flipped open nuts over and just run them like that. 2 nuts the correct way in the original holes and 2 nuts flipped in the drilled holes..

the stock amp is like 60-70 amps.You would be drawing close to that in your lights alone.then theres about 15-20 for the ignition system,then the radio,then gauges and other lights,etc.All that power has to come from somewhere-namely the battery

lets see 4 lights on the bumper,+ 4 forward facing lights on the roof,+ 4 lights on the roof illuminating the sides offroad at night, + 4 rear facing lights or 4 rock lights? am I close? if all lights are 50W then 16x50= 800W / 12V = 66.7 amps light is close to the amount the stock amp provides at at WOT.I dunno you might be able to run them if you ran a GM 130 A or 200A alt and a good battery,a big alt like that should be able to supply that much amps at low rpms...maybe.

ABS will get dissolved by gasoline.use PVC instead.

that is a damn near vertical climb out.

How good of an engine is an Ej18 compared to a EJ22 for swapping into an EA81 vehicle? I know it makes about 20 hp less than a '22 but its like 30 more HP than my engine had when new will a '18 and '22 intake manifold swap over because I have a intake manifold for a 91 EJ22 sitting in my garage complete with all the sensors...as well as the engine wiring harness also will a EA82 5 speed clutch and PP hold the power a EJ18 makes?It would be going into something with a divorced transfer case so there should be less load on it.. thanks in advance

is your brat FI?

I think its funny that when the "normal" 4x4 rigs have a problem doing something the solution is to add a lift and bigger tires, or more HP. OUR solution however it to bust out the sawsall!!!

I have SPFI.the motor stalled because a little bit of mud splashed onto the spark plugs and put the fire out with hardly any mud in there.

looks good but those bottom lights will get broken the first time out...

A while back I posted about the untimely death of my engine due to wet gritting mud intake.The engine would run but it needed ether/a pull start to run.when it did run it wouldn't idle and smoked a lot.so I was thinking that the mud did a number on the cylinder walls or took out the piston rings, or caked valves so they wouldn't close. finally I took the heads off in the car the car to take a look. heads are perfect walls are perfect and I didn't see any thing obvious wrong with the rings I filled the combustion chambers in the heads full of water and they didn't leak. right now it doesn't look like anything is wrong in there so Im a bit confused... I will be pulling the engine soon so I can get a better look at everything. anything else on a EA81 that would explain why it cranked/ran like it had no/low compression and smoked alot of oily smoke?the Engine wasn't overheated or anything so I don't expect the rings to be crystallized or anything...

the EA series cars are a better starting point just because stock they are lighter and have more ground clearance the the EJ stuff. However once you start swapping engines/transmissions all bets are off. Just run whatever you can get a hold of easiest.If you can find a $200 imp then run it.or a $200 gl. both cases they are still subarus.

How does it have a low range?it looks like a engine and FWD trans a mounted transfersly in the passenger seat but I don't see a transfer case. still looks awesome though.