Uberoo

t case lifts are normally done with 6-10" lifts because otherwise ground clearance would be sucky.unless you cut out the floor.there still wouldn't be alot of clearance under the front diff though.

I like it.Is there anything that you can move to the rear by the hatch to help with it nosing in when you jump it?

I see nothing wrong with that.

Im just wondering how long the driveshafts on a T cased hatch are to get some reference of what stuff will look like under there.I just went to pull and save and grabbed a nissan T Case+ all the driveshafts. I also grabbed some 4.11 diffs.Now as soon as I can buy the steel for lift its all going together.Back to the original question: the nissan truck I grabbed the parts from was a regular cab.All of the driveshafts are about as long as a subaru axle.Thats on a regular cab truck.On a T cased hatch do the U joints on the driveshafts touch each other?are the front and rear driveshafts like a foot and the intermediate shaft is like 6".Anyone have any pics under a T cased hatch? Once I get the steel(hopefully in 2 weeks or so) I will be T case lifting a 81 FWD DL hatch back.SPFI EA81-DR 5 speed-nissan T case-4.11 gears-31x10.5x15 Mud Tires.Oh yea..

camber for the dorifto ,nice.

im debating wither or not I should sell it or do a transfer case lift/4wd conversion on it.

81 subaru DL hatch.FWD,5 speed, 145000 Miles,straight,99% rust free,non smoker,no rips/tears/stains in the interior. Just wondering..

a friend is buying it as a daily driver but it might get converted later.Just to be sure,but there are holes in the body for the suspension pieces right?

I'm looking to replace my 84 EA81 wagon Toy with an EA81 hatch.I found an 81 hatch locally. It has 145K miles,its very straight,and it has virtually no rust.BUUUUTT its a FWD DL.I know its alot of work to convert to 4wd but Im wondering if its worth it. BTW ANY Hatch I buy I will swap out the :ea82 front suspension,the DR 5 speed,and the SPFI, not to mention the off road lights and my front bumper. So I know its alot of work but seeing as I am practically swapping the entire drive-train how much more work is it to convert to 4wd as well? will the 84 wagon's rear suspension just bolt on?Will the wagon's fuel tank fit the hatch?

so then it probably would be unwise to helicoil it to 7/16 20?Even though the 7/16-20 is VERY close to M11-1.25 on a metric drill and tap chart I found that to tap a M11-1.25 you drill a 9.75 mm hole.7/16-20 is a 9.9 mm hole. .3838" vs .3897". like I said I can thread the 7/16-20 down the entire length of the stock bolts.

the springs themselves might be stiffer but shortening them will remove some preload.which will make them less stiff.I know on my 87 wagon when I cut a coil off the accord springs I had it rode nice.a bit firm but not to bad.

Does anyone know what the thread size is?I took one of the old bolts into the hardware store to find a helicoil and 7/16-20 AND M12-1.50 BOTH thread down the entire length.Only difference is the M12-1.50 is just a little loose.the metric nut will thread all the way down then slide down the un-threaded section.the 7/16-20 threads down all the way and then STOPS when the threads end.I would like to think that because its a subaru it would be metric thread,but then the metric nut was a bit loose.So anyone know what it is?

EJ22 that why its in new generation.

still need to know what size it is.

what is the thread for the stock ones?Should I bring it to a machine shop and tell them to fix it with some supplied helicoils or have them fix it with whatever they got?

it broke off at the very end of the treaded section so I have no threads to play with. are really long helicoils available?I went down to parts store earlier and the helicoil kits they had,had a bunch of 3/4" long helicoils.I don't know if stacking multiple helicoils would work.

but you can't play with it while driving?..

allready tried the reverse bit.couldn't get it centered.a 7/16 drill bit passes through the dowel and is centered.I thought about just drilling the little bit of aluminum in the bore until I got to the broken bit then the centered 7/16 bit could start to make a center hole.then hopefully I can use the reverse bit and pull out the bolt...

As far as the bolt goes will 7/16 fine thread hold?I was thinking drilling the bolt out down to original thread depth, then re tapping it for 7/16 fine thread.Then find a long bolt.Will grade 5 hold or grade 8 be better?

I wonder if spray copper coat would be a good thing to use?

how about some thinish glass on top of a granite counter top?

oops my bad.I was thinking tempo v6 springs for the front ... 80's accord front springs fit for the rear.Better?

$90 to do both,but I AM dirt poor. why would it go UP with bad economy?then more people can't afford it and will do alternatives.. How to make the wet/dry stick to glass plate?What to use to find high/low spots?

machinist layed a metal bar "straight edge" over the heads and measured it with a feeler gauge.then I balked at the price.

The passenger head was warped .008" and the driver's head was warped .006".Subaru spec calls for .002".Im just wondering if in the real world that little bit matters.I know that the bolts will flatten down the head to an extent,and the head gasket itself can take up some.I'm just asking because the machine shop wants $90 to mill them flat.After buying the car for 120 and the HG/intake manifold gaskets for 70 im flat out broke. Ive heard of using a glass plate and some some sandpaper to "mill" it flat,but I don't know how long it would take to take off .008" and .006" respectively.