Uberoo

Wow,I felt like a crack head going into withdraws.I checked back every day so see if it was up.Yaaa!! its back!I feel much better that my favorite dealer can give me my daily fix!

your math works except for one minor problem.the stock tires are narrow and they tuck into the fender wells meaning that they have a smaller fender well then what you are accounting for.Normal offroad tires are much wider than the 175-185's these cars came with. then the tires interfere at the outer edge of the fender well,where the stock tires tucked into. example: stock tire size is about 23" to fit a 27" tire with your calculation would need about a 4" lift.However most 4"/27" tires rubbed when turning or when the suspension moved they needed either cutting or bashing to fit.so in reality to fit 27" tires with no cutting/bashing and no rubbing needs about a 5.5-6" lift. a better way to figure out lift height would be to measure how far from the edge of the tire to the fender is at stock height. for example lets say it is 3.5" and you want to run a 31 which is roughly 8" taller than stock.so 4" closer to the fender well.so to figure out the lift height add the half the difference in tire size plus the stock fender well clearance.in this case: 4" + 3.5" = 7.5" of lift to fit the tires with no clearancing needed. although I am not sure what the stock distance from tire to fender well is,but if you have a stock car it should be easy to measure.

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thats pretty neat.

so are you saying that the lugnut knomes are actually the arson knomes?

the rims down bother me much.The highway tread for the most part does.Then it looks like some rally tires or something.

holy 6 year old thread batman! It is very important to make sure stuff is tight.When I am getting ready to go on a trip out of town I check my lugnuts.

I love wheeling more than mud.Which is why my offroad is mostly trail running with some mud thrown in.

type A's?

You know I want to go wheeling up at walker but if everyone up there is an ****************** like you seem to be...Maybe I have no business heading up there.at least down here I get respect just for taking a subie through all the holes that the big trucks get stuck in. as for the worthless pictureless threads:How in the hell do you take pictures and drive at the same time?The best I can do is take some after pics and try to tell what happened.

EA82 bodies are good.But if you keep scraping em what are we going to wheel when EA81's become non-existant?

didn't mudrat weld the center diff on that one divorced transfer case vehicle he made that went to the rubicon? Correct me if I wrong but it may have also been an ej engine and 4eat.

pay my gas to come out that way and I will gladly come out there and play.

my clutch slipped going up the trailer because I was trying to crawl up it in FWD,because of that I thought it was good.I had put that clutch a month earlier when I swapped in a 5 speed.the clutch looked like it had 1/2 life left(used) then. BTW this trailer is one of those trailers that sits really high off the ground and I was using short ramps.From now on I will use 4lo to drive up onto a trailer. Finally the clutch died while I was up there because I was trying to crawl over rocks instead of doing the momentum approach. so I would appreciate it if you would cut it out.

can anyone tell me what is the point of the gate?it is closed but people drive around it anyway.

I love that car.

what gears does it do it in?

Ive used the pointed end of a test light before...

looks good but I am not very fond of the stock recovery points.

oh ok. it was just a thought. I need to remember that my subaru =/ submarine

for mine I had to go threw three engines to get a good one buts lets pretend I got it right the first time: engine: $150 wiring harness: $15 computer: $15 XT6 pressure plate: $60 fan: $60 fuel pump: $100 adapter plate: $15 EA81 two core radiator: $45 having Noah Strip the harness: $200 gauges: $30 hoses: $30 so at that point it it was at $720 and I didn't even have an exhaust on it. it could be done cheaper if : I stripped the wiring harness, and found a used fuel pump and fan at the junkyard.it had the coolant and oil at my house(wait you mean its not normal to have at least 3 gallons of coolant and crates of motor oil around the house at all times?)

I know nothing is totally waterproof but I have an SPFI EA81.A little bit of water up front and its done, because the disty is right up front...

what he is meaning is you can make EA81's that will make 100-120 HP.However you will have to spend a ton to make it happen.You would new heads that flow worth a damn,high compression,cam,ignition system,etc.For the money you spend is just better to put in an EJ series engine,140HP right out of the box,MPFI,and rock solid reliability. you can run a 38/38 on an EA81,it just needs to be built a little.32/36 is considered an upgrade on stock engines. the 1600cc VW guys that run a 38/38 have nothing going on until about 2500 RPM then they rev to 8 or 10K.the EA81 will spin about 8k if you have proper fueling.With a 38/38 it will be a dog until 2000 ish RPM then hang on. Most of the subaru guys like the low end grunt that the EA81 is famous for,because they go offroading or something.If however you want to spend alot of time at the higher end or build your motor go with the 38/38.

What is needed to drive a coil pack from an EJ car?Could one be driven off a hall effect sensor used with SPFI? it is my understanding that a hall effect sensor can work under water as can an EJ coil pack. with an older offroad rig with a distributor,if the distributor gets wet the car wont work because the water interferes with the rotors ability to deliver spark to the individual terminals. would it be possible to drive a EJ coilpack without the computer?I know the EJ's use a cam angle sensor to tell the position of the engine.. I know the EJ coil packs have three wires.So does that mean there is 12V,ground,and signal. which would mean that it fires all four terminals at once. or is it 12V, 1/3,2/4 and then grounded through the engine?

the 83 is a better wheeler out of the box.From the factory it had more ground clearance and a low range(sorta).Not to mention that to fit bigger tires on the 83 you just lift it or bash the the fenders in.The legacy needs a lift from the bottom of the strut to fit bigger tires. the lego can be a wheeler, its just bigger,heavier,and doesn't have a low range,but it has way more power. I would use the lego on the street,unless you swap in a 5 speed DR....