Uberoo

just wondering: Whats with the "fins" on top of butters?

the rear hub you just unbolt that 32 or 36 MM nut.then just pull the drum off.may require some hammering to get off.

whats right isn't always the easiest path.

other than needing longer studs to the non recessed area... if you drill into the rims in those spots there wont be alot of material off to the sides because of the large recesses.I know steel rims can take the extra stress but I am not sure about aluminum rims.Besides it will look alot nicer if you drill your hubs rather than the rims.Normally I'm not one to talk about nice looking mods with my subaru being a beat up functional rig... I am just worried about the center portion of those rims shearing off if you drill them.However, do what you want,but remember its not just your life your endangering but everyone else sharing the road with you. Look I am poor.I can barely go play as it is.When something breaks on my rig it might be months before I can go play again.I redrilled my steel rims because I didn't want to pay for new studs after converting to 6 lug.However if I was going to put aluminum rims on my car I would spring for the extra studs and convert to 6 lug.

nice build.

there appears to be some slight fender clearancing needed on the brown wagon. zzz looks like fun.

with aluminum rims I would convert to 6 lug,rather than drill them if thats what you mean.

argh.God you guys are making me long to go playing again.I got a clutch ordered from rock auto.No idea when it will get here.I wish I had an EA82 parts car... I look forward to seeing the pics and hearing the story.

I'm sorry Ive been slacking.Here is a pic of my half doors.I forgot to add cupholders in the doors so I will have to make some when I get the chance.I modified the factory linkage for the doors.To open them,simply press down on the linkage. EDIT: my engine is pulled so the radiator,overflow tank etc are sitting on the seats.

Cover the pump with some rubber insulation or something if the noise bothers you.Or build an insulated box for it to sit in.

I was able to stick a steel pipe on the control arm and hit that with my big hammer and it popped right out,after I unbolted the sway bar,at the exact instant that the napa machine shop closed.Oh well,I will just take it in on monday then..

I can't get the lower ball joint to pop free from the control arm.I've tried simply beating on the balljoint(with the castelated nut on there so to not mess up the treads) Ive tried jacking the car up from the lower ball joint while hammering on the control arm to get it free but I still can not get it to budge. I have everything else loosened up and ready to come off but no joy with the lower ball joint. and this this subaru part for the knuckle would the local napa machine shop have something they could use?

What I meant for normal play was the only give was just the rubber distorting. As for the one shot wheel bearing,the strut/spindle/tie rod, etc didn't move it was just the bearing/rotor that moved. Now that I have the parts is there any tips/tricks that I need to know or is it pretty straight forward?

My car started making some scary sounding noises from the front end.So I jacked the car up and started playing with stuff.The right front tire had 1/2" or so of play in it in any direction.Its just the wheel/rotor that moves.So I believe that the wheel bearing is shot.However Ive never had a car just eat one wheel bearing.Normally the others arn't far behind, but all three other tires have a very small amount of play(normal amount).I checked the wheel nut and it was tight,and they way it is designed it can't really back off.So how likely is it that is it is in fact the wheel bearing?Is there anything else in there that could cause that much play? Car is a 93 legacy wrong wheel drive sedan.

ive heard of cats getting hot and starting fires,but mufflers?I suppose its possible.where did the heat shielding go?

2" lift on EA81's is supposed to eat front axles like candy.When mine was like that I blew three axles in about 6 months of bashing the heck out of it offroad. OEM left axle-clicking after mudding,blew up on drive home aftermarket left axle-left factory with out enough grease in DOJ OEM right axle- blew up mudding then I installed EA82 front suspension under it,I haven't blown an axle yet but there isn't a lot of time on it. So put that 2" block in there.If you notice it going through axles "like candy" then correct it somehow.Yea I blew up 3 axles in a short time span but I really don't consider them failures due to the lift itself.The lift may have been a contributing factor but it was mostly due to 30 year old axles.

ok thanks every one for your help.

i'm confused. you say they have to be offset but then you say they have to go straight down. Wait: I think I get it: the tube itself is straight down with the top and bottom plates welded on at an angle so that there angle is equal to what the strut tower is.

ok thank you.

I know this is probally dumb but I will ask it anyway.Im designing the 8" front lift blocks for when I put a Tcase in my rig.Im offseting them 5* per inch of lift.Im offseting 5* instead of 7* because with 7* offset on my 2" blocks and the EA82 suspension I have some pretty good negative camber going on.So Im thinking a little less offset should help that.Anyway if my math is correct the total offset will be 40*.Also if my math is correct that will end up moving the strut in 4.62 inches which seems like a lot.Is my math correct,and then if it is do I just bash the hell out of the strut tower for clearance? or is there something I am missing?Blocks would be for an EA81.Thanks in advance.

There is a 2" block lift you can do.It just spaces the struts down.So it tends to eat axles.Unless you swap in the EA82 front suspension which has longer axles and control arms. with the two inch lift you put a 2" piece of 1/4" thick tube in between the strut top and the body.Then you just crank the rear torsion bar up in the back.Its best to have the rear end off the ground when you crank the adjustment bolt up. The bolt holes for the front blocks have to be offset 7* for every inch of lift with stock suspension or about 5* per inch of lift if you swap in the ea82 front suspension.

ok thank you.

Ive heard that legacy diffs are 4.11,but they also have inner stubs instead of the outer stubs.Is it possible to put the 4.11 ring and pinion gearset into a 3.9 diff housing and then just slide in the outer stubs?

It seems its just a wiring gremlin. I looked at stuff under the dash and just the act of messing stuff around allowed it to start.So possibly a loose connector or pin at the ecu or something..

problem is I was trying to order from rockauto. they only listed the 200 mm clutch. only way to get the 225 1X24T was to order one for an XT6 oddly enough autozone has the correct disk for less than what everyone else is charging for the 200 mm disk...