Uberoo

Use 5/8" flexible copper tube for the tube.Use rubber just for the sections where it connects to something or needs to flex.Flare the ends of the copper tube so the rubber sections can't slide off. You want to insulate the lines because they will be VERY hot and if you touch any part of the line you will be burned.Not to mention you'll be running 200*+ lines through the interior of the car that like to radiate heat even in 100* degree weather.Those lines might make it so hot in the car during a race that you pass out from heat stroke.

REPLACE ALL OF THAT RUBBER HOSE with metal before you burn the hell out of yourself when a hose bursts.I highly doubt any self respecting tech inspection will let that RUBBER HOSE pass tech when its ran in the interior with NO SHIELDS of any kind. Dont forget to install heat shielding insulation around all of the metal coolant lines as well as a outer shield around that.

If you rework the suspension so the control arms pivot in line with the cv axle you should be able to get more travel.Right now some of your travel is eaten up by the CV axle plunging in and out.Do some mockup to figure out exactly how much movement the axle can support.When I mocked up the shorter and smaller EA81 axles for my project, I found that with a proper suspension geometry I can pull 18" out of the rear and 12-14" out of the front to allow for turning.In my case that means moving the suspension pivots INWARD by about 2 13/16" per side.Take your springs off and cycle the suspension and find out what needs to changed for more travel,the axles can take the angles. For desert racing set up the suspension for a modest lift over stock (2-4") with 60% of your travel for up travel.

NA subaru engines don't take kindly to more than a couple psi of boost.

It might be worth reinforcing those crossmembers where your skidplate mounts to.They are already getting crushed.Use as much mounting area as possible to help distribute the load better.

The last time I used this fan was in the car in my sig, and with the EJ it had enough of an alternator not to care so it was full throttle.Now i'm using it on a 91 geo tracker and its alternator is only good for 55 amps,but the fan only has to cool 80 HP of 1.6L fury...

Run straight water with some water-wetter or similar with corrosion inhibitors.Or at the very least run only 10% antifreeze.Run a higher pressure radiator cap, but less than 20 PSI.Gut your thermostat or run a washer with the same internal diameter.Make sure your fan shrouding is working correctly, and seal off ANY gaps between the radiator and the car.Run corroplast ducting in front of the radiator to force even more air through the radiator.Make sure your skidplate isn't scooping dirt and debris into the radiator.

K.I.S.S.Clean out the radiator or install a bigger one and vent the hood if need be.Don't install a heater core or radiator in the back because that is ALOT of extra complexity for very little gain.In mud the radiator can be relocated to the back so it doesn't fill with mud, but even then unless alot of thought is put into the design they still run a little warm at highway speeds.Not to mention getting the air out of a rear mounted anything is a major PITA.

Don't use pressure washer to clean out the radiator because you will just bend the fins. Use a garden hose. You want volume rather than pressure.

In addition to venting the hood pull the radiator and clean out the fins.Spray from the inside out.Back flush the radiator and cooling system with the garden hose while your at it.Even if you've been spraying it out inside the car their is no comparison to the amount of filth you can get out once the radiator is out of the car.

Try venting the hood first and go from there. something like this would be effective

I'm converting my 91 geo tracker to use an electric fan,The fan will be a puller,same as stock. I know that black is ground and blue/green are positive.I know that the high speed setting on the fan is when both green and blue are hot.I'm just wondering which wire is the low speed setting, or if it even matters. Thanks in advance.

It looks like you have plenty of surface area for the radiator, but with how well you have the bottom of the engine bay sealed up there is not alot of airflow through the engine bay.Cut some vents in the hood between the radiator and the tires and it should improve airflow and thus cooling.Also if possible remove the factory scoop because it is pressurizing the engine bay and compounding your overheating problem.Look on google for heat extraction hoods to get ideas,you might want to try it with another hood. The biggest radiator in the world wont cool if there isn't a pressure differential between the the sides of it.Say for the sake of argument that when stock that there was 1 psi on the front of the radiator, and .45 psi in the engine bay, there is .55 psi of airflow through the radiator at speed.Now lets say, with your extensive skidplate under the engine lets say the underhood pressure is now .7 psi, or only .3 psi worth of airflow.That reduction in airflow through the radiator would make your radiator behave like it was 54% smaller-overheating.

I picked up a 93 Impreza as a parts car,and as luck would have it, it has a full tank of gasoline.So I would like to use the pump to drain the tank-which hose is the fuel supply and what wires are positive and negative?Thanks in advance.

Depending on the amount of lift you have, you might need to space down the anti roll bar mounts.Or just remove them,the bars limit travel offroad. Handling really isn't that bad without them,subarus have have such low center of gravities that they handle like old pickups once the sway bar is removed, still very predicable and easily rallied.A side benefit is they ride softer too.Removing the bar takes out roughly 200lb/in of suspension spring rate.

So I got the tube 100% welded in,made some patch panels tieing the tube into the body.After that I started filling in some holes in the body left over from trim pieces.Then I started mocking up the tail light panel as a reward for getting that tube in place.Upside down welding sucks, and when the metal isn't surgically clean its hell.Got everything in there but some sections look like utter dog**** so I will post pics after I have attacked them with a grinder,and re welded spots if necessary.As they look now I really don't want my name attached to them,So I suppose that makes me a grinder and not a welder..

Right, so yesterday I worked on the car for about 2 hours and got some work done. First off I cut out a rectangular piece of 1/8" plate,then I bent that to fit the firewall.Then welded it in place.That plate will serve as a mounting base for some of the tube firewall forward. Then I made some patch panels to rebuild some of the structure of the car. Yes I know, my welds suck especially up at the top.That first inch was nothing but boogers,after that I was able to lay down decent beads.I went over the first section again to burn in some of that crap...but atleast no one will see it. I have all of today to work on it.Lets see what I can get done.

I got a bunch of work done today, but nothing pic worthy.I got that tube 80% welded into the car.I welded up everything that was less than 3/8" gap from above and below.Now to make some patch panels to fill up areas that I cut too far back when making the tube fit in the first place.Then after that some sheetmetal sections to reinforce some sections under the car. Oh lawdy, I would kill to have the car on a rotisserie.It would be SO MUCH EASIER to weld under it.Maybe when I win the lottery I will have a rotisserie, and a car hoist,and a 5 axis cnc mill,and.....

make sure to jack the car up off the ground and use plenty of penetrating fluid.

I dunno it doesn't seem to want to post the last pictar.

So Ive been rebuilding my little honda ct90 so I can ride it as soon as most the snow in the hills melts off in a couple of weeks,but I still need more parts, while its down I worked a little on the brat. I ground down all the rough and jagged edges of the remaining structure on the passenger side of the car.Then I welded up all the edges that were exposed when I savagly cut the layers away.No pictars because upside down welding,and because it is hard to show anything with the camera anyway. So I began mocking up where the new tube frame will go.A little cutting here and there,some hammering and bending sheetmetal with pliers, and I got the 55" section of tube to go into its new home. you can even see some the burn marks from welding some the sections under the floor/firewall. This is how tight the tube is tucked into the body. I started to weld the sheetmetal to the tube but I ran out of wire and CO2 isnt too far behind.This is about as far as i got.Note: there will also be extra reinforcements bracing the toob to the car, that piece of tube will never come off the car... to teh welding store tomorrow for more metal glue..

So...

How did you do that?

The problem is the steering shaft wants to flop around for a bit rather than rotate along its axis because there is too much freedom of motion.You need to constrain one of the shafts so both rotate about their axis so all of the steering wheel rotation is sent to the steering rack.