Uberoo

I was just wondering because I pulled everything from the pull and save.It took 4 hours just to get the damn transmission out because everything that could go wrong did.It was very stressful.I was asking for any tips that would either help with the transmission coming out or going back in. However,I guess that because I make a few what if posts i am not eligible to receive a nice answer like "undo the CV's first" or some other thing.

Alright! enough bashing on me!What the hell is this Pirate4x4?

regardless of how thick your going your mounting to tinfoil. do you want to run over trees?etc?I would say no thinner than 3/16 if your going to mount a winch to it.And figure out how to make the mounts well integrated into the car.

so tomarrow I am going to yank the 4 speed out and put in a 5 speed in my ea81 wheeler toy.Are there any tips to making it go smoothly and with the least amount of stress? Pulled the transmission out of an 85 at the junkyard.It had a locked colum and I took apart the shifter before undoing the axles so it ended up being very stressful. Although I am wondering if I should wait to take it apart until the the new throwout bearing gets here...(4 days out) I suppose I could fix the blown front axle while waiting for parts...

to the people saying how this isn't a problem in idaho-SHUT THE HELL UP! washington and idaho are right next to exact other.So you will have tons of WA cars coming into idaho dripping with salt.It won't be as bad as washington but WE WILL STILL RUST! or what happens when you need to drive in WA?Around here the walmart is is WA and Pull and Save Is in spokane,WA.Two trips where anything I drive will start rusting away.Not to mention all the countless other trips in WA. ID and WA share alot of things.Within 30 miles of here there a 4 cities with a wa/ID border: clarkston,wa/lewiston,id Pullman,wa/Moscow,ID etc or what about Spokane/CDA? Salt in WA will effect us here.

rrrawr *post has risen from the DEAD!!* So I just got a new hood for my ea81.Turns out that the top of the legacy radiator is just a little to tall for the hood to close effectively.So rather than cut up my $26 pull and save hood,I should relocate the radiator because I plan to do it anyway.My final question before I buy the tubing,does anyone know if the stock EA81 waterpump can pump that much more volume? Im on christmas break from college so I now have quite a bit of time on my hands. Tomorrow- fix waterpump on my DD, put fixed radiator back into dodge, maybe start 5 speed swap into EA81.And then....hehe..

judging from your avatar, are you tired of "wetasssyndrome" or something?

not as much as some of you but I did own a 87 GL wagon.I ran the ea82 until it blew a headgasket then I swapped in an ej22.Theres was always dirt and assorted crap at the bottom of the covers.

timing belt covers will keep crap in there if anything does get in there.Stuff like mud that would have otherwise just drain out might interfere with the belts anyway.So the covers can keep stuff out but in the case of fluids might make it worse.Besides most EA82's and EJ22's the covers get eaten by the belts anyway.Once the covers are worn through they will let stuff in but it wont escape.

I hate lewiston.I just got back from spokane.It snowed the whole way down.A couple of inches deep in some places.Sucks when you would rather just set the cruise at 75 and go.Then I get to lewiston and all of that snow just MAGICALLY disappears.I thought I might get to play in the snow afterwards but no...AND I had to drive our 98 chrysler town and country AWD minivan.went about 50-60 and never had any problems. I did pass a forester going 30 MPH... ...But now I have all the parts needed for my 5 speed swap,and a hood,mirror,taillight,and door handle all for my 84 GL offroad toy...

bigger will filter better at the same flow rate due to more filter element area.So I would put the biggest that you can fit that will seal up and not hit anything.Or just run stock.

I think it looks better without the front lip actually.With the front lip it looks abit too ricey.

wow.i don't think my offroad ea81 could beat a crackhead on a 10 speed bike...

schucks I think.

water pump is less than a year old. radiator hoses were rock hard.

Turns out the squealing wasn't the PS belt.Whats the only other belt on the front of a NON air conditioned EJ22.Turns out I had just a few percentage points less of antifreeze than what was required.like 30% when I needed 35% or more.Turns out that the coolant was iced over.Now I think the water pump shaft is broken.When it was still squealing I heard something go snap.That and I appear to have a coolant leak on the right front of the engine by the upper radiator hose. I hate these sub zero temps we have been having... is there anyway to test proper operation of the water pump without pulling everything apart?Now I need to try to get my diesel truck to start in this weather...

I feel luffed. Im looking into a possible transfer case lift sometime in the future to keep my butt from getting soaked... Right now Im looking at the cost of EJ swap vs Tcase lift.One hand I have the power to spin the tires to gearing is a moot point.Other hand,I have the gearing to spin the tires so power is moot...

will a 3.7 clutch type lsd fit a non viscous 4.11?

It seems that the cold around here is freezing up the power steering fluid so it gets harder to pump so the belt starts slipping on my 93 legacy.When I first start up in the morning its kinda hard to steer and I can hear the belt squealing.After turning the wheel a couple of times or so the steering feel is fine but the belt keeps squealing for a block or two until the fluid warms up enough. Is there a way to prevent the fluid from freezing up or do I just have to deal with the squealing and shortened belt life?It only happens on the first start up.The resulting start ups even if the engine is cold are completely normal with no squealing...

I know your an rump roast monstaru but have you tried searching for "4.11*"? it doesnt work that well. Thanks scott.Any idea of the year for the early legacys?Auto or manual?

What vehicles came with 4.11 rear gears?How hard is it to put the 4.11 gearset in a R160 housing?Does the 3.9 R160 LSD fit the 4.11's?Thanks. Thinking about a tcase lift,just want to have all my eggs in one basket kinda thing...

I had a replacement axle go bad after about 100 miles.It was offroaded for most that time though.The vibrations were terrible until the inner joint died.Just poped it in 4wd and off I went- to blow up reverse in a mud hole...

My FWD legacy can incinerate the tires on command.When I had my 87 wagon EJed it was very hard to catch traction in FWD.the EA cars are just too light.Mine was a wagon and yours is a coupe so there would be less weight transfer but still.

I dunno I would rather trust my life to a 2x2 block of wood on a jack than use a high lift.While its true that both cases the car could fall off the jack,with the regular jack you are not going to get smacked in the face if the the latch decides to release wrong.Personally I have never been injured by a hi lift but Ive seen enough to be more than cautious.Hell, I use my foot to nervously tap the release on a hi lift because ive seen then coming ratcheting down.That 3 foot bar gets pretty mean swinging that fast. Although a hi lift is kinda nice if you want to shift a vehicle over or use the highlift as a winch..

I was thinking about getting a newish forester.Probally the first generation with a manual.Ive read alot of bad things about those 2.5s.Stuff like the headgasket being replaced 4 times before 50,000 miles or stuff like that.Any chance of all the issues like that being sorted out by now?Or is buying a used forester a very bad proposition from a reliability standpoint? Looking for a newer,more practical, snow friendly car rather than a $200 93 legacy L FWD..Generally would like something with rock solid reliability especially if im gonna be paying 5-6K for a car.