Uberoo

I have some lights like that too.except mine came off a nissan 720 at pull and save. They are mounted on a piece of 2x1 extruded aluminum(came with the lights).I just drilled straight through the roof.The wireing is exposed because I really didnt feel like trying to run them through the bar and connect them up... Just wish I could do something about the light bar shaking on rough roads...The sheetmetal of the roof is pretty flemsy.I dunno maybe a fender washer on the inside rather than a regular washer...

Ive never really "rebuilt" a carb per say.Ive torn down a couple of mikuni's off toyotas and such,mainly just to clean them out.never to replace/rebuild anything...That and ive never messed with anything as complicated as a hitachi.That said if I tried to do something to it I probally would brake something or loose a tiny but essential part of the carb.. I wonder if acetone might help with anything?Supposidly it will improve MPG by 1-3 MPG?Im sure thats on rigs that are running right,but if it does boost the MPG it would help abit at least until I can find a weber or do a SPFI conversion.Both of which don't just happen over night,on my budget(I earn money by selling stuff,this weeks seems to be scrap aluminum)

My carb on my EA81 seems to have some problems right now. A buddy says the accelerator pump is bad,and then for some reason its running very rich.Rich enough that the fumes from the exhaust(or the gasoline smell from under the hood) hurt my eyes going down the road.Drove it 90 miles round trip up to whinchester(up hill one way) and it was getting about 15 MPG.I know with the 235's MPG will go down somewhat but not that extreme. I am not sure how the accelerator pump can be out if its getting such poor MPG. can i fix the carb for cheap just to deal with it now?Or would I be better off not putting any money into the carb, then just save up until I can do the SPFI swap?

I know but the way you put it... Any pics of the vehicle in question that you will be up in?That way I could know what to look for? mine probally will be the only one up there like it. silver lifted wagon,235's, 4 lights on the roof, light green driver side doors,not alot of straight panels,etc

wouldnt that mean that you would be driving your sube?

runs just a little below 1/2 way...before it ran about 1/8" above halfway...

was able to figure it out.the old Tstat was an aftermarket that someone installed backwards... put a 180* thermostat from a chevy. between that and the legacy radiator it runs cool.still has awesome heat especially cause i cleaned out the heater core..

I decided to go and change my thermostat on my ea81.When I undid the thermostat housing the Tstat fell out.Which way is the new Tstat supposed to sit? cone type thing pointing in the manifold or spring in manifold?

all the places around here just have course thread all thread. 7/16 -14, 1/2-13, 3/8-16 etc...

I am trying like all hell to have my EA81 subaru toy ready for Moyie Mud Bogs fall 2009.Its oct 9-10.So next friday and saturday .Its up in Moyie Springs, ID. I just have a few things to do to my offroad toy before I go, like: mount up 235/75/15 mud tires rather than my all seasons/snow tires, weld rear diff.Wire in radiator fans, replace my door handle and window,and find some sort of mesh to go in front of my front mounted radiator fans,that and install hood pins. All the while I will be attending college full time.Then I will also help a friend install a new transmission in his ranger so he can go.. So anyone else going up there?I see a ton of big fullsize stuff running the mud bogs.I even saw a beat up legacy with no doors,hood,and hatch running, but no lifted roos.A couple of cars on 4x4 frames,etc..

ran a 7/16 20 tap about an 1.25" in the ASV spacer.So all the way through and about 1/4" into the heads. I ended up using 1.5" bolts.Studs were nowhere to ne found unless I wanted them ordered in.So I put some antisieze on the bolts and called it a day.For once I now own an EA81 that doesnt have an exhaust leak off the heads.. Now I get to listen to a unrestrictive exhaust with no exhaust leaks...Although maybe I should put some sort of muffler on it...It fell off out playing in a mud hole and I havent put it back on yet...

So whats a fun thing to do under the car when attempting to change exhaust manifold gaskets?If you guessed retap for bigger exhaust studs you would be correct...Damn thing. However, rather than taping into the aluminum heads can I instead tap the riser or for the EGR?Its cast iron so its threads should be stronger than threads taped in cast aluminum...Or would it just be better to drill the holes to install a 7/16 tap into the aluminum? This is on an EA81 BTW.

I wouldnt need to do it if the car didnt understeer.That and its only on some really sharp corners... funnest one is a 90* left off a 45-55 mph road into a side street then right over some railroad tracks with a steep approach and landing ramp...I do have a skidplate so no worries about punching the oil pan..

what do you all get for MPG?I get 25 in my 93 legacy FWD.My daily commute consists of 4K RPM shift points,trail braking/left foot braking, and a really big hill(1250 ft elevation change or more).In short driving like a maniac,but it still is much higher than EPA estimates... So what do you all get?

could it be that there are for EJ stuff sold than EA stuff?Stuff like struts and wheel bearings could be going out at the same rate but because there are more cars out there you hear about it more? I dunno my legacy had blown struts at all four corners when I bought it and its a 93.It had 144K on the clock when I bought it.Although Ive never had to replace the struts on anything ive owned prior.sure the struts on my 84 probally could be replaced,but they arnt sagging to the point that I am getting fender rubbing on hard corners... However, I am pretty sure my car bombed down dirt roads and anything else before I bought it, so its hard to tell.

there should be a couple of vaccum lines going down to the transmisssion. find the device they go into.It might have some sort of lever that you could manually move to put it back in FWD.Parking on a hill may also help. while you are following the vacuum lines make sure have no leaks.All else fails there should be a lever/linkage on the passenger side of the transmission that you can manualy move to put it back in FWD.

My ea81 needed full throttle and 3rd gear to get up the hills.and it still would slow down.Although a hitachi that needs an accerator pump isnt gonna be fast anyway...

If I had an EA82 I would love it if it came with timing CHAINS rather than belts..especially the crappy EA82 belts...

I know this is an old thread,but I just got my toy running again and looking out the window I could see the front tires go from 0 camber to full positive camber when ever I touched the gas. Would limiting straps work while its on the street to control the tires?Must just be the soft springs or something but the front end lifts and the tires just go full positive.

fixed it.the pos and neg cables had some corrosion on them.So I poured some baking soda water over them and used a wirebrush to clean the connectors.

wow, I always shift around 4K even with my legacy... I did however feel like I might be hurting the engine when I have to drive up a long hill and 4th is to high and 3rd is to low with my ea81...Felt wierd to keep the R's over 4500 to climb a hill...

remove the front axles on any 4wd subaru and you have rwd.

yea... I just wish there was a local rallycross or something around her to play on... I will be volunteering though.

I got class until about 3 on friday.After that I could swing by.I'll have to talk to them and see what I can do I guess..

I did play around with the battery cables.the positive was a little corroded. I suppose now that Im home I can clean the positive and negative connections, and I'll look that the starter wire. Normally it starts right up,then all of the sudden it did that...