Uberoo

how hard was it to cut and reweld the body back together?

needs bigger tires.

bigo swap your sedan rear springs for 80's accord with AC front coils.That and your wagon springs should be enough to hold up a couple of friends.

X2 for reviving an old thread, but something about flying subarus and huge rocks gives me wood!

your just adding weight and complexity to a reliable system.However, if you desire it, who am I to question you. Try searching the minitruck sites.Someone may have a weak/small door popper that you could adapt to be a trunk popper.

80's accord front springs are stiffer than stock rear wagon springs.They fit.There are a little longer than stock. for the front you can use ford tempo front springs with a couple of coils cut off depending on your preference.

It seems that most of the bulbs on my instrument cluster are burned out.I was thinking replacing all the bulbs with white LED lights that will just plug in, with no wiring needed. anyway what are all the bulb types?Two are just 194's but all the others dont come out of there sockets so Im not sure what they are.Car is a 1993 subaru legacy L. Thinking LED's because I really dont like pulling the whole cluster out just to change a couple of bulbs...

top mounts were in use on the car. Sounds like I need to go get new strut tops...

there are two dots on top of the struts. Which way should they point? front-rear or side-side?

I just installed 4 new monroe struts for my 93 legacy L (FWD ). Anyway, right after I installed them I got this clonking from the front of the car. Its like the whole strut moves or something because the car will then pull either left or right depending on which ever strut made noises. it only seems to happen when I turn or a wheel goes over a bump or dip in the road,more or less anything that would cause the suspension to cycle.Its really bad when turning from a stop or pulling out onto the road from a curb. Anybody have an idea of what it may be?Ive checked that the strut tops and the nut in the center are tight,they are. I know the lower nuts/bolts are tight.I dont know what it is.Before the struts made noise but didnt effect the alignment any. Could the ball joints or A arm bushing be bad?could the struts have been so far gone I never would have noticed?I don't know...It kinda sounds like the suspension mounts are rusted out,but there isnt any rust on the car.

now to see if I can get the head off the diesel without breaking the studs...it has a glow plug that was installed to far in.They tried to back it out but it broke.Then it sat outside for a long time, and now has a lot of rust on it.Engine turns over freely though... as far as coupling two engines together, one engine is 19" long if you include the massive crank pully.The engine weighs 300 lbs, but because its aircooled its only about 50 lbs heavier than stock...because its so big and heavy only one will fit in the engine bay.it will however sit 6" above the hoodline...perfect for getting air to the cylinders for cooling...

so then the little diesel might just be the hot ticket offroad..

Offroad which is more important, HP or TQ? Ive always thought of it as "HP is how fast you can go,TQ is how fast you get there". I know TQ is a twisting force,acceleration for lack of a better word.Where does HP play into that? With that in mind, I have two engines that i might like to put in my offroad subaru toy. Engine A is a two cylinder diesel. It has like 16 HP but about 85 Lbft of torque by 1500(or less) RPM.It revs to 3600 RPM. Engine two is a EA81. just guessing but it has 80 HP at 5K RPM or so and 90(ish?) Lbft of torque at about 2.5K rpm or so. Which is a better engine offroad? one one hand the diesel has more TQ from idle, where as the subi has way more horsepower. In the mud there are two reasons why someone might press the gas more, other than just wanting to go faster. Those are: get engine into torque band to better deal with the drag of the tires in the mud, and to spin the tires faster to get them to self clean.The diesel would have the tq at low RPM to not bog down as much at low RPM.The gas engine however could rev much higher to get the tires clean and maybe keep going by the "paddle" effect. Each lug of the tire acts as a paddle to give some forward momentum. Im kinda thinking the diesel, but I know know if it could spin the tires fast enough to get the tires to self clean.I dont really want to put the diesel in just to get stuck a mudhole that having lots of wheelspeed would have been all it needed to get through. What engine would you pick?Is TQ or HP more important offroad?

Does anyone know the part number for just the XT6 pressure plate at schucks,napa,etc?I would rather not buy a clutch kit to get the pressure plate...

thanks for the answers. I have an idea for a later project using that rotary out of the mazda. The rotary is in a mazda RX4 wagon. the body is missing bits like the suspension and what not. supposidly that motor makes 110 HP and 100 lbs tq(at what rpm?10,000?) the distributor for the rotary has 6 ports. 4 for the spark plugs, one I am assuming for the coil, and another one that goes somewhere...Any idea where it might go?

For an EJ swap can I use a EA81 flywheel thats already set up for the larger clutch?I have a few of those around, EA82 flywheels, not so much. then does it still need a 720 throwout bearing? I'm just kinda curious...I have a parts EA81 that might be salvageable.not sure, I havent been able to check it out yet...god it would be good to get the subi running. hell, I suppose I could put this first gen mazda rotary in the subi...its sitting is a 70's mazda station wagon... it would have more HP but no torque...AH!!! must get subi running under subi power..

I just relaized that i have a parts car that the engine is just sitting in the engine bay,already pulled. No idea whats wrong with it.I suppose I can pull the oilpan and check the bearings,if those are good I could see what the heads look like.It might need new headgaskets or something minor... for those who care, both of my old heads where cracked between the valves. the driver side head had some pretty big cracks, the passenger head the cracks might not have done anything.

Thanks everyone for all the talk and tips of how to mill your own heads.Unfortunatly, I pulled the motor today and took the heads off.I am glad I didnt order headgaskets. Every single piston wasnt centered in there bore. The bores themselves don't even look straight. not to mention that at least 2 cylinders have collapsed rings. While I could rebuild the engine, it isnt worth the effort when I was planning to put a ej22 in there. So I suppose I try my best to get the "engine" down to just aluminum. one more EA81 engine gone from the world...at least it isnt the EA81 body:-\ anyone need the the alternator, the crank,the valve train,etc, anything not aluminum?PM me.

I have an 84 EA81 wagon (my avatar). Anyway I am assuming it has two severly blown headgaskets. The coolant dissapeared going up a long steep hill.It never read hot, just when it got to the top it didnt have any power so I checked it out.the radiator was cold and most of the oil was burned off the block.Anyway, then I tried to crank it and it spun like it had no compression.I am hoping its just the heads warped so much that the headgasket wont seal,rather than the pistons warping...I wont know until I tear it down.Money is tight so I cant afford 30 bucks a head to have them milled flat.Ive heard you can use a flat piece of glass with some sandpaper glued to it to "mill" the heads.Anyone ever tried that?Can that method get the heads flat enough to seal up with the headgasket?If I can't fix it, I suppose I can remove everything not aluminum from the engine then get some money for the EJ22 swap I am planing...Allthough in the meantime I would rather fix the thing because there is a mudbog competion next week I might like to run in What sandpaper is best to use?What surface roughness does the aluminum head/block need to be?If need be I suppose I could make sure the block is flat too.(I am pulling the motor to do a good job.I have an abundance of time but very little money.. as always..

I voted BRAT because they are cool.However, I also like wagons.Wagons look awesume lifted, lowered, or whatever...

so how do I get the cam cover plate back on without breaking it?Ive been lightly tapping it in with a hammer and it works great until it gets close to the block then one of the mounting ears breaks off, because the plate isnt 100% perpendicular to the head.Ive broke two plates like that.The second one is being welded today because there isnt any more plates around here. So do I get the stupid thing in without breaking it? Also what is the easiest and quickest way to change the oilpan?I got another oilpan because it was less dented than mine so I want to install it before I put a skidplate over it.Just not seeing an easy way to do it.Do I have to pull the motor?If so, screw it, my dented pan isnt leaking so...

its a 93 with the 2.2 sorry. I already threw away the gasket and plan on using a thin film of red rtv.

I just tore down the front of my engine because the front main seal went bad. While I am there I might as well fix alot of the seals there. I ordered new cam seals and new front main seal. the front main came with seals/gaskets for the oil pump. I have all the bolts off the oil pump but it wont budge at all. Also what is the best way to get the passenger side cam seal off without screwing stuff up?I dont have the tool,wish I did but I dont. I was about to get the main and driver side cam seal off,but scratched the surfaces and then polished them smooth again with some fine steel wool.I would just rather not go through that again. Otherwise, I suppose I can just see how much longer it will last.

Is there anything I can do to get more spring rate short of coil overs? 123 inch pounds isnt really stable on gravel.