Uberoo

What the hell is this? 2 wire sensor, or whatever.It looks like a super ground.It was mounted on the right inner fender under the AC stuff there on the 92 legacy.It is a nippon thing.The part number is 26740AA040.Says dont drop, Nippon ABS LTD, and Advance direction with an arrow pointing to the right.

saabs are FWD,I would like to convert one to RWD. I thought the volvo were really heavy?I have a 83 240 wagon that I am gonna use for a demolition derby and it weighs 4300 lbs.Are the coupes alot lighter?

The compression for the engine has 135-140 PSI for the left bank and 140-164 for the right bank.The engine has 70 PSI of oil pressure when warmed up.The engine isnt warrentied because it fails the leakdown test. It looses 25-50 PSI of pressure... I am thinking the valves are a bit carboned up

I Am trying to get in contact with numbchux but right now it seems like he has too much of a life to check this site and his email. I wish I had a life... oh well.

Make no mistake the electrical part is the hardest part of the swap.

I am looking for a cheap 4 cylinder manual RWD car to rally up local mountain roads. Something I can pick up for a couple hundred, put a rollcage in,find some some snow tires,etc then go.Also something cheap enough that if I stack it up it isnt a huge problem.Eventually, I want to convert a SAAB 900 to RWD and rally that, but for the mean time I would like something to learn the ropes with first so I dont stack the custom SAAB up..looking for something decently light and nimble.I dont want a FWD because IF you get a bit to much sideways you can't correct it very well,where as RWD you can catch it unless the back end is already passing the front... So anyway here is what I have thought of so far 80's Japanese 4 banger 2wd truck 80's mustang older toyotas?? Maybe a subaru RX with no front driveshafts anything else or maybe exact models?

Surely I am not the only person who has gone through this? The wiring harness is strung out in my living room and I have siblings and pets that can mess with it...

dont know, its a junk yard engine.The junkyard tested it.I dont know if they squirted oil down the cylinders and retested....

I am looking to pick up a 92 legacy engine to swap into an older subaru. A local junkyard has one with 170K showing on the clock, 140 PSI compression, and 70 PSI oil pressure.For 200 bucks.The problem is they wont warrienty it. Would that engine be a good engine for a long time or will it fail in short order? A couple days ago I called them they said they had a couple for 250 with a 6 month warrenty. So I go and grab a wiring harness and computer to start the swap and now they dont want to warrenty the motor. The engine mentioned early would that be a good engine with maybe a tune up and some seafoam or something to get rid of the carbon?

anybody?

ok, select monitor is another way to check codes.Ok, hopefully, the two green connectors and the black connectors will be enough. So to refresh all of my questions into one post: One of the wires to the ignition controller got clipped. Where does the Yellow wire with a black strip go?The other wire goes to the computer. Got the relays sorted out. What wires on the harness need switched power and what wires need constant power? I have a manual transmission so what do I do about the transmission identifier?The harness came from a manual so it should be fine just the way it is..I hope. What to do with 49/cali identifier? The wire is in the harness,I dont know about the engine yet.Should I cut that wire out of the harness? in the pinout it lists several wires with GND.Do I need hook those all up for proper grounding or are they grounded though their sensors,injectors,etc? Can the CEL and trouble code display share the same light?

I also got the legacy ignition switch. Which wire can I power the harness with switched power?I have a large black wire with a white strip,A large black wire with a blue strip,A smaller black wire and a small black wire with a yellow strip.

Ok I hooked up the computer and traced the lines that were cut F47 22 AC relay *F47 18 TI* monitor *B56 7 select monitor signal *B56 8 select monitor signal B56 9 AC switch B56 10 starter relay B58 10 Neutral Switch B58 11 ???? What the hell do F47 18, B56 7, and B56 8 do? What is the TI monitor or select monitor? What does B58 11 do? It is not marked in my pinout that I have. Will the car start and run with B58 10 cut?With B58 10 cut does the ECU consider the car to be a manual? Thanks in advance, Im worried that it will never start again with wires for the ecu cut...

Right now I have a brown square relay with a brown connector 6 PINS a round metal relay with a green connector 4 PINS A round relay with a clear/yellow connector 4 PINS

What does the ignition relay look like?I have removed all of the wires that were cut,Now I just have to remove the relays that I wont be needing. Also, all of the remaining wires in the fuse panel, do I connect all of those into a single large power wire? I may have made a mistake. The ignition amplifiler got cut.Were does the yellow/black strip wire go?Is it a ground?

so I looked at a 92 ECU pinout I had AC is B56 9 and F47 22 so those two will not have anything. Then I will need to tap into B56 19 for the tach F47 19 for the CEL and B56 15 for the trouble code output. can the CEL and the trouble code output wires be connected to the same light?

neato.. I found a 92 legacy's wiring harness and computer for $18.I am already stripping the harness of excess fluff. for a 92 ej22 without AC,ABS, manual trans,cruise control,etc how many wires coming out of the computer get cut?hen I pulled the harness I cut the stuff that wasnt needed(wiper motor, ac stuff,etc) and im just pulling the cut wires out of the harness.A couple of times the wires end at one of the computer terminals which scares me.Most of the them are the other end of a cut wire or go into the SMJ(which will be fun in itself) The last ej swap project I did a bunch of wires off the computer were cut(paid noah to strip the harness). I just get a little nervy when cutting wires from the ECU...Is there a rough total of wires of the ECU that are cut for the AC or ABS?so far I believe I have one or two wires that go nowhere off the ECU.

The car has a 2" suspension lift.didnt space suspension from body.Just dropped the struts down and cranked up the back..

I think I will just go EJ...

I am thinking about converting my 84 offroad beast to EJ22.Right now the EA81 has blown headgaskets and could probally use a rebuild.I could rebuild it but then I would be left with a shortage of power and a carb. I figure I might as well start gathing bits for the EJ swap and kill to birds with one stone. I have some questions as it is: Will I need to notch the frame rails to fit the EJ22 in the 84 GL? Will I need to grind out the motor mount holes? What is required to adapt the EJ to the EA81 4 speed DR?(I know I could go 5 speed but this is an offroad toy,I dont need the fith gear.Besides I have a late 4 speed so my 4th is roughly equal to 5th on 5 speed.1.59 low vs 1.42 would be nice but not worth the effort.) how can I make a surge tank on the cheap?

mechanically it will bolt in. Then the fun begins with the wiring harness. find a WRX/STI front clip that contains the engine,wiring harness,ECU,transmission, radiator, etc...then go to town. Or find a wrecked WRX/STI and swap bits over...

Its what makes a subaru a subaru.

It did have 230,XXX miles on the car before I even got it...

At the time I went wheeling it wasnt my DD.I was just driving it now a little bit so save on gas. Before the first time its coolant disappeared it didnt overheat or even get close to overheating. I think what may have started the headgasket going may have been dunking the engine in a deep mud hole.Diddnt suck water in the engine but it was deep enough to drown the distributor.

The first time out offroad with the new 235's on my 84 offroad toy the motor got hot because somehow the coolant disappeared. The motor got hot enough to make what sounded like rod knock.Not to mention that all the oil and grease caked on the motor got hot enough to burn off and make a pretty good smoke cloud.We let it cool down then put water in.She ran fine all of that day, and every day until today.A couple of days ago I noticed that I was loosing a bit of coolant.I thought it was because the radiator cap was loose.Today I tried to drive up a hill towards moscow(30 miles away). the hill was 7 miles about 10% grade.Steep enough that the underpowered combo of EA81 and 235's in 2lo could only go about 50 up it winding out third.Got to the top of the hill and shifted to 4th and tried to accelerate to the 65 MPH speed limit.With it floored it 4th it would only go 50 MPH on flat ground.Somethings up. So I pulled over at the nearest stopping area.The motor stalled when I stopped.The radiator was cold and there wasnt a drop of water in it.I had topped of the water at the bottom of the hill. The motor wouldnt restart even after putting some water in it. Just cranked like it didnt have any compression. So I had a friend tow me back into town. I found I could bumpstart the motor while moving and the motor could rev but if I tried to stop she would just stall out again.So right now looking at one maybe both headgaskets blown.The heads are warped and possibly the block.Atleast $200 just to fix it.Only problem is I dont really have money to put gas in the thing, let alone rebuild the motor so I kinda dont know what to do. I wont sell the subaru because its a pain in the butt to find another sutable wheeler.It will just sit for a while until I can find the money to fix it.While driving my 89 cummins auto that gets 15 MPG...its gonna be a while. Its seems all my problems with subarus are them getting hot or the coolant dissapearing.I wonder if I can find a nice air cooled VW engine to put in there...