
SkipII
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Everything posted by SkipII
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Thanks, but... Even though my problem suggests I'm no expert yet, his method is not correct. He is going back to pump the unit with the brake bleeder open. Doing so, you cannot observe if the bubbles have stopped. You also do not have to pump the unit at each brake line; only enough to keep the pressure at about 10-15 PSI. His spelling was atrocious, by the way.
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I am using it for the first time on a '05 Legacy and am having two problems, likely related: 1. There is a large air gap in the line from the pump to the master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in the pump chamber. I pressured checked the system at 15-20 PSI and am running it at 10-15 PSI with the fluid and it is holding the pressure with no leaks. No sure how to get rid of the air without sending it all through the brake system. 2. When i bleed the first brake, the fluid dribbles out, then stops, as if there is no pressure behind it. Yet when I check the PowerBleeder pump, it is still at 10-15 PSI. Any help is appreciated. Please know that, yes, i have checked and double-checked connections, seal seating, etc. I have pressure to the master cylinder with no leaks. It is the air in the hose that is the problem.
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Okay, right after posting, of course, I found several. Here are a coupel of new questions: Does drilling really make much difference in the performance of the brakes? The ones I found at Brake Performance are "dimpled" holes so they don't have the problems iwth structural weakneses of a full drill-through, but I'm not sure if they are worth the money over the basic slotted rotors such as Power Slot. the Power Slots are cadmium-coated.
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I was at the dealer today picking up my wife's Legacy with its spiffy four new tires after her accident (yes, I bought all four to pay fealty to the circumferential gods) and the dealer mentioned something about oil changes. I said "I do all that, thanks." He said, "You not using synthetic, are you." And I replied, "As a matter of fact, I do." He then said that Subaru does not recommend synthetic because its high lubricity seeps into the aluminum surfaces of the engine. Sigh...I'm almost embarassed to ask this question, but is it true that Subaru actually does NOT recommend synrthic for a reason? I know most manufacturers are way behind in adjusting service internals to match synthetic life, but I have never heard of one that actually recommended against it.
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Thanks everyone, and particularly OB99W for offering and separateing fact from opinion. It sounds like I could have left two tires on one side and bought two new ones for the other side, but we are already into getting this done at the dealer. I will keep the two "good" tires and use them someday if we have another situation (ideally in 10K miles!).
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Thanks. Bet out -- if the tranny binds, and they see I have different treadwear, I'm sure I'll be in a battle. By the way, I own a 330Ci and had my auto tranny fluid changed at 45K (the delaeer claimed they had to crack open the tranny casing to do it since there was no way!). Easy to do -- cut the tube from the tranny cooling system and installed a fitting. "Lifetime" fluid simply means some statisician and run the numbers to project how many fluid-related failures there would be within warranty and then within typical CPO periods. It has NOTHING to do with the fluid being lifetime. it is merely synthetic, which has longer change intervals. Thanks for your help. I'll cough up for a pair of Potrenzas and tell my wife to stay away from construction zones.
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I understand the impact of differing circumferences on how AWD works but I am trying to get a better idea of how sensitive it is. My wife hit some debris on the road this weekend and blew out two tires on her Legacy GT. The car has Bridgestone Potenzas with about 10K on them. The dealer says all four tires need to be replaced. I say move two of the tires in a pair to either the front of the back (whichever normally creates greater wear) and just be cool for a few months until they even out. I have a hard time believing that 2/32 or so of tread wear after 10K would make that much difference to AWD. Any opinions?
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My wife loves her Legacy GT but she is also spoiled a bit by my fairly heavily modded BMW 330Ci, especially the brakes (which are better). She is already saying the Legacy's brakes have some fade and are not as certain as the BMW's. (I just smile...) So, my question is, without dumping thousands on big-brake kits, is there a way to get bigger rotors? I assume this means it would need a new carrier for the calipers and new calipers as well? I'm wondering if just switching to slotted rotors and some upgraded pads might be enough of a difference. Opinions? Recommendations? Thanks.