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Thank you Lucky. Really hoping to find an independent friend who does stuff on the side. I know they're out there. Subaru owners love the subaru. Hopefully there are other suggestions.

or any suggestions on shops

Hello. I wonder if anybody here knows of anybody who does work on subarus in chicago land. A friend of mine lives near Edgewater neighborhood and is on the cusp of losing her subaru due to a starter or some sort of issue. She can't afford dealership work. Hoping somebody here might be able to offer a suggestion to contact a subaru lover friend and mecahnic who does work on that end of chicago. Even better would be near her workplace in Skokie which is where her car currently is. Thanks for all suggestions. Craig

I don't think a slow coolant leak. I have not heard of any mixing been seen. It was initially thought to be a matter of a leaking rack which was an issue and has been replaced but still told it is a HG. so thanks for the suggestions. I figure a 2k fix for this could be the final outcome although that would likely include spark plugs and some flattening of heads I think I was told.

Hello Subaru Friends, I am finaly taking the step to address the slow leak that I think has been in my head gasket(s) for some time. I have a little over 166K miles on y 2005 outback 2.5i ( I think. its a wagon with leather and all that jazz so 2.5 something.) Anyway I am just curious if anybody has ideas on places i can go for reasonablly priced service. I'd rather not go to the precision tune shop I go to. Although they are very good I think I will be paying more there. I also have some issues with speed sensor or whateve the dash code. error 55 means. Not sure if it is 55 or speed sensor. My cruise is out either because of that or something else. i do know my ABS light does com on at times. can't recall if always I have not been driving it much lately. I appreciate all ideas and suggestions. Knowing the attention to subarus around this place and detailed attention at that I would also consider an independent service job as well (i.e. home/side work) Thank you all, Craig

I pulled it out and put it back in. There doesn't seem to be a whole of separation between climate control and radio. There is a power seeming plug with fourteen or so pins that appeared to be the master. then two other plugs one the powered the climate controls and another that didn't seem to make a difference when I unplugged it so I assume that is for the dics player. Hoping no power to disc player will be the answer. Otherwise pulling and replacing fuses regularly http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=202566&stc=1&d=1423522648 on the left is the port for the fourteen pins master and the right the upper is the climate and the lower is likely hopefully disc player. So I'm gonna test it over the week and see if I have resolved it. thanks.

That's a good idea. There were sperate wires for the two when I pulled it out last year. Could give me something to do tonight. Thanks. then finding a radio is next Id really miss that.

When I pulled the fuse. I think it was marked as 15 a. on the second to bottom row of fuses third fuse from steering wheel moving out. it killed the dashboard clock and all functions in the radio unit including hvac. From what I can tell.

but they do run off the same fuse correct? So what I understand you saying is get a new radio. Separate the radio and the hvac units. ( it really seems to be once piece. This is what I currently have. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-Legacy-Outback-Radio-6-Disc-Changer-CD-Player-Auto-Climate-Temp-Control-/151893597628 ) then go to crtuchfield and get the face panel to piece it all back together. What about my plan to just pull the radio HVAC fuse on a regular basis. this seems like it would brake the cirucit and interrupt any draw.

Okay just curious of any other thoughts. I am trying to keep this low cost. parasitic draw is 98$ new radio heat and ac headunit is not cheap at least on the first looking around I did. Pulled fuse for the radio it does disable the heating and cooling although I am thinking I could just pull the fuse when i park the car then pop it back in when driving it. hmmm. Does that seem like a good work around?

figure if I pull that fuse then its all out. Kinda need heat and def. in mn this time of year.

thanks. Pretty sure the radio/cd player is connected to the heating and cooling unit also.

THis has become a perennial problem. I drive a 2005 subaru outback with about 160k. I have had a couple of new batteries put in. At about this time last year I had a parasitic draw test done and learned there was a cd stuck in the player that cause a continual drain. That seemed to have resolved the issue until about a month ago when I was gone for a short period 2-3 days and the car was not used. I have had it jumped a couple of times. but it seems to happen if I don't drive the car every day or or at least every other. I have portable jump kit on the way. >>DBPOWER 300A Peak 8000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter DJS40 Battery Charger Phone Power Bank (Black/Red). I would rather not put too much mkore momeny into this issue i.e. another parasitic draw test and I figure the battery is still good. I have been told my alternator is also good replaced not too long ago. My question for those who are more familiar with cars and their inner workings is: Do people think I could avoid this issue if I got a disconnect kit for the battery terminal? something like this>>> http://www.eastwood.com/battery-shutoff-switch-w-instructions.html?fee=7&fep=465&SRCCODE=GA220010&adpos=1o1&creative=83580269820&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KEQiAvuWyBRDO_Yzhpv_4nvEBEiQANBdXMqRnBF54BI1YVFODY_MIyJO0q5ACzwQnqJbF07nKaKAaAkid8P8HAQ This is a nuisance. Overall the rest of the car seems to be fine other than a leaky head gasket which is a known issue.

state farm

bump for Friday morning eyes.

Hi Subaru frinends. I'm new to Chicago and suffererd hit and run. To my front drivers side. The one sho I have found can't do work until mid December. I'm with. State Farm or Allstate ins. Any suggestions of places in or near edge water neighborhood? All help is appreciated. The.

Hmm. The CD player stopped working a couple of years ago. Have not been able to get any of the cds to play or for the cd playher to function at all. I wonder if I could take it out and some how dislodge or get the cds out.... Thanks for the thought!

Hey Imdew. that's a great offer. i am just now exploring my options. Like this? >> http://i3.ytimg.com/vi/DU9C5GX25d4/hqdefault.jpg Thanks. Gotta check options but likely will be in touch.

Hello Subaru friends. I haven't posted here for awhile because most car issues have been pretty straight forward for me. I have come across a new one though. Over the past two years I have had to replace my battery three times. On this latest trip to firestone they offered to do a a parasitic draw test because I am continuing to have to jump my car. If the car sits for more than a day I have a dead battery and in Mn that is not a situation one wants to deal with in these upcoming months. I drive a 2005 outback 2.5 I . The guys at firestone determined that the draw is at about 400miliamps which is much higher than the 70 the car can manage without draining the battery. I've been told they found there is an open loop coming from the back of the a/c cdplayer/radio unit which in this model car is all one unit so I lose a/c and heat if I try to take out just the radio. Offered to get me a reconditioned unit for roughly $580 with install it would be 692.00 out the door. So my questions for you experts are these: Is it difficult to install a used radio cd/player? (I've seen units on ebay for anywhere from 40-195) If I do this on my own what is the likelihood that I need to do some kind of Programming to the car CPU? How safely realistic is it to simply detach the negative cable from the battery to avoid the drain? What are other options or situations I may need to be aware of? Thanks I appreciate the help and insight. I just learned about all of this within the last hour. The good news is I don't have to get a new battery but I will have to pay 89.00 for the parasitic test which is a drag because I could have dsone it at a more local hop for less since firestone and their battery warranty are doing me no good. Thank YOU!!

I drive a 2005 outback 2.5l. I took in and and got the estimates for things. I guess I will just deal with the lack of cruise control for awhile. I have a number of issues to repair. L Cv/axle assembly, Steer rack and pinion, Replace spark plus, ABS/Speed sensor wheel hub replacement. Too bad the speed sensors are on the wheel bearing hub. So I will have to prioritize. Thanks for the advice and thoughts. the thing with the ABS error code is that it will be off when i start the car but then when I hit about 30 mph it goes on again so i don't know that reseting it will help. I would just like to get around it for cruise control functionality. Anti-locks brakes aren't that important until winter weather in whcih case new tires would make a bigger difference anyway. Thanks All. Craig

* meant without having to go to the shop and have them reset it? or is this something autozone or a similar place could help out?

I have an ABS Code on in my car and it turns out it will cost about 524 to repair. There are three codes associated with it. 105, 108 and 107. My mechanic suggested I repair the right rear Speed sensor but this is out of my price range at the moment. I found this ( see below) I wonder if there is any way to turn off the code or reset the ABS error code so I might be able to use cruise control for highway driving this weekend? Any and all help is appreciated. thank you. The 2005 thru 2009 model year Legacy and Outback can display Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) directly on the dashboard. No scan tool is needed. No jumper wires are required, and it is not necessary to count blinky lights. The codes are displayed in plain text on the instrument cluster. Trouble codes from the ECM (Engine Control Module), TCM (Transmission Control Module) and ABSCM/VDCCM (ABS or VDC Control Module) are displayed. This procedure was distilled from the FSM. The English translation in the FSM is not very good, so I have attempted to make it easier to follow. The FSM has this procedure in the Body Section, Instrument/Driver Information, Comination Meter System chapter. Some notes before starting: - I believe this procedure will work for all 2005 to 2009 Legacys and Outbacks. However, I have only tested the procedure on my car, a 2007 Outback 2.5i automatic. - I don't know of a way to reset the codes without a scan tool. Disconnecting the battery may or may not work. - Exactly what you will see depends on what type of display your car has. There are two images of tables below, one for the Normal display and one for the Multi-Information Display that is found on Turbo models. The Procedure Starting condition: key off, headlight switch off. Steps 1 through 7 must be performed within 10 seconds. 1. Turn key to ON position. This is the normal running position, the click just before starting, when all the lights on the dash come on, but before you twist to START. Don't start the engine! 2. Within 3 seconds, turn the headlight switch ON. 3. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times. 4. Turn the headlight switch OFF. 5. Press the Trip/Odometer button 4 times. 6. Turn headlight swtich ON. 7. Press Trip/Odometer button 4 times. At this point, the DTC display will begin. 8. Turn headlight switch OFF. Not necessary for the procedure, but your display may be dimmed and hard to read in bright sunlight. Besides, why drain the battery? The DTCs for each module will display in order: ECM, TCM, ABSCM/VDCCM. Press the Trip/Odometer button to cycle between modules. The FSM states that the display will cycle between modules automatically every three seconds if the button is not pushed, but that did not happen in my car - I had to push the button to cycle the display.

Probably is SS just that digitial display makes ss and 55 look the same. Gonna stop at o'reilly's today or some other place that will run a scan.

up

So I drive 2005 outback. about 136K miles on it. The ABS list came on yesterday and is staying on. I also notcied that just above the odometer it reads error code 55. I know this is about the anti-lock braking system but not sure how big of an issue it could develop into. I have my car schedule to go into the the dealership for the brake line recall I gota letter about a maybe a month ago. I don't wnat to take it in for the recall and then have the dealership give me list of problems and a super bill. any thoughts and commetns appreciated... Thanks