gritle

Just wondering if I will save much $$ or anything else by doing it on my own or if going on my own will lead to alots of time and frustration. Heck I don't even know how much spark plugs cost or what the right type would be.

I am pretty sure I need new spark plugs at least this has been reccommended by the last shop I was at. Is this something a car repair NOVICE can handle. I drive a 2005 subaru outback 2.5l. It has 134000 miles on it. I haven't looked into this very much yet but kinda thinkg it wouln'd be too difficult. I did replace a power sterring belt or something a couple of yearrs ago. I think I killed my alternator because I didn't have a torque wrench. Would this be easy enough?

Thanks Heartless and gross gary. This is the kind of informastion i have been looking for. The car is a 2005 outback 2.5 I have about 134,000 miles on it. I would like to try to regrease and reboot if I can. I know a shop that might be able to help with that direction and i guess I could buy the part myself and take it to them I am pretty sure they install 'your own parts' Also thanks on the labor thing. Unfotuately I think i he put $94 on as a labor estiamate to keep me from cominug back. Well as soon as he told me to buzz off and that maybe i needed a smarter mechainc I realized I don't need to talk to him again. I hope the swing kit/box (?) was necessary. The car does seem to drive well. I appreciate your response. Thanks again.

any comments rom kind people today?

anyone else?

The CV boot, which is right up against the the wheel (?) looks intact. Is there a difference between cv boot and drive axle boot? I count at least four rubber boots under the front end of the car. Is there a difference between axle and drive axle. Also does anyone know anything about a swing kit? Did I get taken is it worth going back to this guy and making a stink. ( Yelp has lots of good reivess for the fellow, saying he does wotk enough to make the car safe but not going to upcharge unnecessary things)

bump

Hello subarusers. I was in a an accident back in march. Got hit on the right steering tower and found out there was a lot of work that needed to be done to the front end. ball joints, left brake calipers and things like that. I took it back to the body shop where the guy (dave) was able to also help me with the front end under neath stuf too. Anyway I have been hearing a clicking noise when I make left turns. I took it back to Dave who wanted to make sure things were safe and sound. he referred me to a friend of his (Donny) who told me all boots under the car were good and that i needed a swing kit. He replaced the swing kit (~$100) and told me it needed to be done but i would likely still here the clicking and he needed an open ticket it to dig further and he would be charging $94 dollars an hour labor (seems high to me). So I get home and just want to look and crawl under the car. What I think is the drive axle boot is totally torn open, enopugh that I can stick my fingers up insde there. The clicking suond continues. So i take it back to Donny ask about the torn boot. He is a royal rump roast and shoes me away like a fly and says maybe I need to go to a smarter mechanic. I am not really sure what i did pay for and not to keen to go back to the guy just to get some understanding. Questions now: There must be CV boots and drive axle boots? Is this so? How much of a concern is a torn drive axle boot? How long can I let it go and put up with the clicking noise? Does anyone here have a rough idea of what replacing one of those would run? If I let it go am I risking further irreversible damage? Lastly: any suggestions for good subaru repair shops (non-dealer) in the twin cities area? Sorry for the long story but the guy, Donny, it probably the worst car repair experience I have had. thanks for thoughts... Craig

I would love to. Time is a facot and I don't know if this place is looking for used parts. I could probably get cheaper with a different shop. I trust the work these guys do though. I should have asked about used parts. Ahh well. Debt! its the American way!!!

So I thought I had a simple O2 sensor issue. Hoping for about 200 dollar repair. Turns out thsi may be more like 1300. Somewhere along the line someone welded the O2 sensor in to the middle cat. The middle cat also looks alittle worn. I am mostly just venting but wish I could find a cheaper part. I saw the CAT quoted for 840 itsel!!! damn. Think I am going to suggest rockauto.com to my shop guy but I am sure shipping and handling changes things plus takes longer than getting it from o'reilly's or something in or across town. But damn that is not what I had hoped for.

thanks. Sounds l;ike some good steps to take. I forgot about the lifting and shaking the wheel thing. I just know that I had those bearings replaced about 2-3 years ago. Although with the solid impact to my right side/front wheel..tower business it could have joslted a lot. The 02 sensor was actually an issue before the accident. (yes to 2.5l) I was just leaving autozone after having the code read and about to get a second a opinion when I pulled out into a obsucrred visibility intersection. Thanks for the suggestion on parts. From what I have read bearing replacement could run 500 or more??? Thanks.

Hello, I got in a wreck about three weeks ago and have a few questions of curiosity/exploration now that I got my vehicle back. I suffered a collision (t-bone) of my passenger side front wheel and door. This was repaired pretty easily. In the process it was found that my ball joints were rusted and I was missing boots. So plenty of work done on front end. ust before the accident i was checking on an engine light matter that first said it was an o2 sensor. It seems an o2 sensor will affect HPG and when the check engine light on the cruise is disabled. I had my auto body guy look at it and he said there are too many o2 sensor to pinpoint with his time and my estimate. Is there any way to pinpoint which o2 senosr is malfunctioning? My initial search showed the part as 200 itself? (autozone quote) Can these be found for less? Then this just happened on my way to work after picking vehcile up from body shop this morning. I noticed a loudish grinding noise coming from the right rear ( sounds kind of like a card board on bike spokes.) It sounds almost like a an exhaust issue but I am not sure (new muffler in august). The sound increases in speed and volume as the the car accelerates. I wonder if this might be a wheel bearing issue or if it will just go away. The sound really came out of nowhere. I had this repaired about two years ago. Do these go out so quickly and what is a general estimate for something like that? I just put 760 into the car and am not keen on taking it in again. How big of a problem might a bearing issue be? I know there is usually a lot of great advice coming from this forum. THANKS.

Hello, I got in a wreck about three weeks ago and have a few questions of curiosity/exploration now that I got my vehicle back. I suffered a collision (t-bone) of my passenger side front wheel and door. This was repaired pretty easily. In the process it was found that my ball joints were rusted and I was missing boots. So plenty of work done on front end. ust before the accident i was checking on an engine light matter that first said it was an o2 sensor. It seems an o2 sensor will affect HPG and when the check engine light on the cruise is disabled. I had my auto body guy look at it and he said there are too many o2 sensor to pinpoint with his time and my estimate. Is there any way to pinpoint which o2 senosr is malfunctioning? My initial search showed the part as 200 itself? (autozone quote) Can these be found for less? Then this just happened on my way to work after picking vehcile up from body shop this morning. I noticed a loudish grinding noise coming from the right rear ( sounds kind of like a card board on bike spokes.) It sounds almost like a an exhaust issue but I am not sure (new muffler in august). The sound increases in speed and volume as the the car accelerates. I wonder if this might be a wheel bearing issue. I had this repaired about two years ago. Do these go out so quickly and what is a general estimate for something like that? I just put 760 into the car and am not keen on taking it in again. How big of a problem might a bearing issue be? I know there is usually a lot of great advice coming from this forum. THANKS.

Hello. I got rear ended about three weeks ago. sustained damage to the back bumper that has been repaired and replaced. I got my car back today and it seems louder than it was. I did replace my rear bearings a couple of years ago but now I am wondering if that sound has something to with. I was at stoplight with my foot on the break when I got nailed. Is there any possibility that this would have been damaged by the impact. Or might I just be used to driving the rental for the last week which was a 2011-2 sonata. This is what I hear. While I am 'coasting' down the road with no foot on the gas it is basically quiet. Once I step on the accelerator I get the kind of grinding sound. I also wonder if it is an exhaust thing or motor sound but it seems to come from the rear. Thanks for thoughts. c

Thanks I think I found that very information. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/why-is-the-power-steering-making-noise-on-my-subaru-outback/ including this kind of stuff. It does say specific to 200-2004 but it seems familiar to me and I did have some belts replaced in january 2012 We have had a lot of Questions from all over the country on this subject so I thought I would provide some information. This issue is typically found on the 2000 to 2004 Subaru Outback and Subaru Legacy. There will be pictures up next week to help illustrate what is going on. Here is the usual situation someone replaces the belts, or the timing belt or the alternator and almost instantly the power steering pump starts to make noise and the car can be hard to steer. Well here is what happens. The top bolt for the alternator and power steering fan belt shroud is secured to the power steering return line tube/bracket through a rubber grommet in the top of the shroud. If there isn’t enough slack in the shroud when the top bolt is tightened the shroud will pull onto the tube (towards the drivers side) allowing air into the power steering system thus causing the fluid to become aerated. The other end of this shroud is slotted at the alternator pivot bolt. The rubber grommet is there, to give a little instead of pulling the tube under load. Once the tube is pulled it is necessary to reset it in the power steering pump to make sure it isn’t still being pulled in one direction after this the shroud will need to be installed properly ( with slack). From there the aerated fluid must be replaced with fresh fluid and the problem is solved.

oh and the car has 115,000 miles on it. thinking a clamp would be the best option with hope. not sure where to go for second opinion. Does anybody in twin cities, mn have suggestions? Like I said there is a bit of a noise when backing up. I think this is the powersteering pump trying to do its job. When the vehicle is moving there seems to be no problem. Thanks

I have been getting a noise ( sounds sort of eletric or buzzing sounds) say when backing out of a parking spot and turning the wheel getting ready to head away. I havent noticed any wet spots under the car. I will get a second opinion. I'd like to just address the leak and not replace a major part. Not too inlcined with auto repairs myself so not sure of the kit option

I was told at the shop that my power steering fluid was leaking and I would be looking at a rack and pinion replacement including tire rod caps or something like that. he quoted me at 9-1k. Just wondering if that sounds right and if anyone would have suggestion to cut costs at all... any ntl. names such as firestone or sears auto or something like that that might be lower cost. Also wondeing if I just keep an eye on the power sterring fluid how long I'd be good? Thanks for any ideas.

I was told at the shop that my power steering fluid was leaking and I would be looking at a rack and pinion replacement including tire rod caps or something like that. he quoted me at 9-1k. Just wondering if that sounds right and if anyone would have suggestion to cut costs at all... any ntl. names such as firestone or sears auto or something like that that might be lower cost. Also wondeing if I just keep an eye on the power sterring fluid how long I'd be good? Thanks for any ideas.

thoughts?

quick simple question here. I'm shopping around for a new battery for my 2005 outback. 4 cylinder 2.5l I have little idea of what I need. suggestions so I can shop prices

Is there any way to disable the warning bell for the seatbelt sign? I drive a 2005 outback and a friend drives a legacy I think it is probably 2006 or more recent. I have a feeling it woiuld be done by going through the stereo somehow. Can anyone advise? Thanks.

Huh? I can't seem to find a way to get it out or to get to any of the fasteners. suggestions?

bump up. Suggestions for where to find a cd player to replace this one. The heat and a/c are attached with the radio and other controls

I think the eating and cooling controls are all part of that stero unit. So I'm thinking a replacement kinda needs to be the same factory unit. So far they look pricey. any suggestios. Really need the heat and well the A/c is nice too