Ma-fia

Thanks for more ideas, guys. One way or another I should get it out. Archemitis, I wish I knew about the heating before I started messing with the manifold. All the knowledge circulating in this board would probably make quite a decent book. Oh well, maybe I get better in the future. After all this GLF is my first real car project. 13 bucks is not a problem, I might think of getting the stuff. Do you have any idea what the shipping would cost? HOwever, you've got me wondering: maybe I should try to spray some rust converter in there. I'm not sure if RustFix would be a good idea or not. After all it doesn't just dissolve the rust, but forms a different compound that doesn't go anywhere. The whole manifold actually pivots around the broken bolt, I just realized that I forgot to mention that earlier.

Miles, your pictures are splendid. What are those ideas you're talking about, SnotRocket? Who knows, maybe in addition to the digital camera Santa should bring me a small cheap welding device... (Or a friend with such willing to make a trip.) I'm still waiting on those bolts. It's probably hopeless, but what the heck. The stuff I'm spraying it with is not WD-40, it's that yellowish deal in red-and-yellow can; supposedly pretty strong.

One of the 4 longer bolts holding the manifold onto the engine block broke off. Apparently there was a very slow leak around the gasket on one side for a long time, and one bolt rusted dead onto the manifold. I managed to undo the other long bolt (on the same side) from the engine block, but it still wouldn't come out of the manifold. For the past 4 or 5 days I kept spraying the broken bolt with penetrating oil, hoping to be able to at least slide the manifold out, but that didn't happen so far. Any ideas? I suspect that most likely I'll have to rock the manifold until the rest of the bolt breaks off below the manifold and try to tack-weld a nut on it afterwords... Or just take it to a machine shop and let them figure it out. I know, it's gonna be so much fun! (I don't have a welder.) Any suggestions/ideas will be appreciated.

Well, here is what I know about carburetors: if a Hitachi carb goes bad, buy a new/rebuilt one. I had a very similar problem: the carburetor was flooding, and nothing I did would change the situation (adjustment, no adjustment -- all the same). For a couple of months the car still ran (with 1/3 of normal power), and then died completely. At that point I called my father-in-law, who used to be a Chrysler mechanic for 25 years. Not exactly a Subaru mechanic, but still a VERY GOOD mechanic. When he found out it was a Hitachi carb, he told me, that I should get a new one. Well, I already bought the rebuild kit. I tried to rebuild the carb TWICE. I had 3 of them to work with. After the first, as well as after the second retry, the car would start, but die immediately. If I kept her running by gassing up, she would run, but have almost no power. Then I bought a rebuilt carb for about $250. No problems so far (after a year and a half).

Congratulations! I don't think I posted anything, but I was definitely folowing.

Wow, this stuff sounds like I should remember it next time I get to the bodywork! The only thing I've ever used was RustFix, and it works, yeah, but nothing like you all describe.

Thanks for your opinions, folks. I am sure there is no recipe that would work for everybody (then all but one oil manufacturer would go out of business -- how horribly sad). As a matter of fact, I was reading through the-Oil-guys' page for quite a while and plan on continuing to do so; the only sad thing is that sometimes they're too hi-tech for someone who's only degree is in Biology. As to the purpose of my questions -- I'm simply trying to form an opinion on how to make the life of my engines long and easy. I beleive that every little bit counts -- oil, filter, grade of gas, etc. Only I still have to figure out how. I have heard from a coupld of people that when the engine gets older, it's better to use different oil. I have never tried those high-mileage oils, and so far I am not sure if I should. For my Sub I'm buying 10w30 Castrol (regular). Considering to introduce some seasonal change though. And maybe switch both cars to synthetic.

A friend of mine has 2 seats in an '84 wagon he's parting out. He'd probably sell them both for 10 bucks, they are somewhat ripped up (that could be compensated by seatcovers I imagine). The problem is how much it would cost to ship from Dallas, TX... It's probably not worth it. What about going to a JY? "Any" 80-84 Subaru should not be that hard to find. And -- HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!! Don't give up, life will eventually get better.

I don't have a picture, but I went an easy way (well, easy for me): my center console was missing a radio anyway and was a bit cracked. With a dremmel I've cut out everything in the lower part where all the holes were (my console is more or less close to what Subieman has), then took a nice pine board, cut it to size, cut out rectangular opening, then trimmed to cover irregularities. A bit of lacquer -- and my fancy setup was ready. I just bolted it on from the inside with regular wood screws. I like the "wooden" look, but it could be painted to match the interior color perfectly. Not very stock, but it's there, looks neat and plays CDs. Hey, SubaruJunkie, is that shifter knob really olive GREEN like in your picture? I'd kill to find one llike it!! (You're not interested inselling are you?)

Another thing: don't you guys think that factory recommended 5w20 (on a new Ford) is a bit too thin for Texas conditions? I just don't know any more -- it's getting way too confusing. I know that the narrower the difference between top and bottom number, the better, but other than that I have little clues.

Good question. For me -- I'd say "best for the engine protection". I am not an aggressive driver to begin with, and gladly sacrifice fun of flying through turns and extrafast acceleration for the sake of engine life!

Photo2001 started this oil thing, and it got me thinking on this subj. Since it was proved that I knew very little about oil fileters, I won't even tell what I use, he-he. (By the way, I do have an old Fram and old Purolator, which I didn't throw away yet; I guess I'll keep them for a hack-saw experiment... Do you think it'll work, even if they were on a new car?) So... WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK? The best regular oil is... The best synthetic oil is... Thanks!

Yep, the first one is in Italian, that's for sure. In general, it sounds like a regular sales article -- all the options, a little on bit of technical info, how great it is et cetera... Doesn't show the date of the article though, it could be old or new -- no telling, I prefer the looks of the 80's models, so I don't follow the new stuff that much. It it a very nice picture thouhg...

Joshua, try to change the title of your post: in a few words describe what's happening and include vehicle year and model. This way (hopefully) more people might be motivated to view your post and help if they know anything about it. Right now your title doesn't tell much. Other than that -- I feel for you (have been in your situation), but - I often cry for help myself when it comes to "why's".

I am pretty much in the dark when it comes to identifying the trouble, but I've replaced wheel bearings on both front wheels. It's not that hard. The worst part is cleaning. Just smack them out, like the folks say. To get them in, I've got a plastic straight adapter in plumbing section, it costs very little (the kind they use it to join 2 pieces of pipe of the same diameter to extend the piping), with diameter as close to the outer ring of the bearing as possible, but a bit smaller. It helps to get the bearing in without damaging it. That has been about 1.5 years ago. One side is still up and holding. I had to swap the other steering knuckle though after about a month (must have gotten dirt into the bearings after all...) -- I didn't want to go through the whole bearing deal again and got a parts car just around that time... Good luck!

Swell!!! I've done exactly the same with the opposite end... The trunk lock wouldn't work anyway, so I took out the lock and covered up the hole.

Thanks! I figured I should do something like that; even bought some engine degreaser to hose it down with before I wash the engine. You think that's a good idea? I am still wondering how to scrape off the old gasket without dropping half of it into pistons!

I've just about made my mind to replace my intake manifold gaskets tomorrow. Is there anything I should know? I'm worried about getting dirt into the engine. Any good ways to avoid it? Any tips will be appriciated!

That's a lot of stuff to digest. Thanks guys!

I was wondering, if I could get the fuel injector and the rest off of some other year/model. I imagine, it would be quite a bit of pain in the neck, since all the lines would probably have to be replaced because of higher pressure. Anybody got ideas?

Perfectly agree with everything, short and sweet; especially loved the comment about the curb! Here's another question though: what is lighter: -- 14" + 185x70x14 or -- 16" + 205x45x16? (both wheels are alloys and have relatively similar amount of metal in the spokes) By the weight I can't really tell, both seem pretty darn heavy to dance around with, and I didn't get THAT curious to drag out the scale.

It is way too addictive, isn't it. My better half is fast asleep for probably 4 hours by now! The fact of the matter is that I am glad I found Subaru brethern-crackheads.

what are we all doing in here at 3 in the morning?

To add to the funny mysteries of Sub wiring: When I forget that the heat does not work and try to turn it on, this action misteriously turns of my sterio...

One more thing: if you want some more stories about experiences of a clumsy mechanic, or have any questions feel free to e-mail me any time or when the time comes to deal with CVs and the rest. Brake calipers can also be annoying: you have to SCREW them in. Get an adapter, if you don't have one! I have successfully reduced the "bumps" in which adapter fits almost to zero with plyers and hammer, and then found out that they sell $4-5 adaptor for the ratchet for this exact purpose.