reeze

Thanks Rooster 2, I will do those two parts next, hopefully tomorrow. Yes, bad gas was my first thought. But the initial experience didn't start right after a fill up, it was a few days later, so that's probably not the cause. In any event, I filled the tank again and added a can of dry gas since that time.

I just posted on my other "spark plug change" thread, now I have two threads going, sorry! Maybe I should keep everything over here. I'm curious -- when you say these are "classic" symptoms, do you mean the fact that this rough running happens only intermittently? What exactly are the "classic" symptoms of a sticky regulator? And assuming this is the problem, how much of a deal is it to fix? Is this part easily accessible or should I be scheduling an appointment at my local garage? Thanks much for your help!!

Crash321: the engine was only slightly warm by the time I did the plugs. I'm back from my afternoon carpooling & errands, after driving about an hour, stop & go and about 30 miles of highway driving. Unfortunately I had one slight incident of the rough running that started me on this whole adventure. It lasted about 30 seconds. Looks like I have a little more work to do. Just to reiterate from my previous thread, last week the car started running rough and stalled once, as I was climbing a hill. A few days ago I went to Autozone to have my codes read and they were: P0420 -- cat converter or O2 sensor issue P0400 -- EGR system (blocked, or failed EGR valve) P0303 -- misfire in cylinder 3 I figured the misfire was the most direct cause of the rough running so I was hoping the new plugs & wires would fix it. Not sure if the cat converter issue is related to misfiring or rough running (the Autozone printout says the misfiring can CAUSE the P0420 code). The EGR system might be the next thing to look at, however I don't think this is a DIY job (for me at least). I was thinking of replacing the fuel filter and PCV valve next since they are probably due anyway and I think I can handle that (unless the fuel filter is unreachable to someone without lifts). I may start looking at available Legacys...

Done! Success. At least the idles smoothly, I'm off to pick up my daughter at her school. Thanks again to everyone for the tips. I may post a picture of the old plugs, one of them looks different from the other three. Maybe some clues as to what else is going on.

Ouch that hurts!! I just paid $74 with tax. But I need the car for a gig tomorrow night, so I don't have time for mail order. Actually the car has been running OK all this morning as I went around exchanging parts & buying more stuff. Go figure. I'm sure it could use the new parts anyway (if not more stuff).

As always, thanks to everyone for the words of wisdom. I just returned from the Subie dealer with the OEM wires, exchanged the Bosch for the NGK plugs, and also stopped at Sears to buy a spark plug socket (the one I had, 11/16", was the wrong size). Also, there was a set of four extension bars on sale at half price ($10 vs $20) so I picked those up too, I'm sure they'll come in handy down the road. I'm off to start the job...just hoping the old ones come out easy. The engine is still warm, that might help.

Thanks. Do you use anti-seize?

Anyone still reading this, I am going with the OEM wires & NGK plugs. I started a new thread asking whether it might not be advisable for me to try changing the plugs myself: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=803605#post803605

This is a follow up to my earlier thread about my 95 Legacy FWD with 205K running rough: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96568 First, if anyone has followed that thread, let me say that this morning I am returning the aftermarket wires and Bosch plugs. I will be exchanging the plugs for NGKs, and going to a local dealer to buy the OEM wires. Now, although I am a total amateur when it comes to auto repair, I have in my lifetime replaced spark plugs. But, after googling a bit and reading about some issues, I'm a little concerned about whether it might be wiser to let a real shop do this. I don't have a torque wrench, just a craftsman rachet, spark plug socket and 3" extension bar. Also, I've read that there could be issues in removing spark plugs that have not been changed in a LONG time from aluminum block engines. It's possible that the old plugs have been in there for a REAL LONG time (I'm ashamed to say how long!). Also, there is mention of using anti-seize compound on the new plugs, however I couldn't find out by googling whether that advice is correct for this particular engine. As I said, I've done this before, at least a few times, on my two previous Legacys ('90 and '92), and maybe I just got lucky; I think I just tightened the plugs until I felt the gasket start to crush, then torqued it a bit more until I started feeling some real resistance, then stopped. I suppose I could buy a torque wrench and it would cost me less than what a shop would charge to change the plugs & wires, so that might be an option. Another complicating factor is that I would be doing this job in 35 degree weather (which is better than if I tried it yesterday in 17 degree weather!!). As always, thanks to the experts here for their guidance!!

OK I hear you guys. I guess the question for me is "do I feel lucky"?

...$70 at my local dealer. VS $25 that I paid at Autozone for the aftermarket. That's a big difference, but I guess I shouldn't be too surprised. Still, I have to ask (and please forgive my doubting the experts here): it's a WIRE, a few connectors and a rubber boot. What is different about the genuine Sub version? If it's a matter of build quality and longevity, well, I'm not as concerned as most people might be since my car has 202K on it and I drive about 30-35K /yr. I don't expect to have this car in two or three years, maybe sooner! Of course it doesn't owe me a thing, I bought it about 5 years ago with 65K for $3200 (it's actually the subject of one of my first threads on this board, still on here somewhere!). If a $25 set of wires will get me going and last the remaining life of the car then I think I'd like to save the $$. Yet there is this strong consensus here about not using aftermarket wires, where does it come from?

Thank you all for your quick replies and helpful tips. I need to get this done pretty soon so I may have to forgo mail ordering and just visit my local Subie dealer and hope he has the wires & plugs in stock. Reason is, I have a gig Thursday night and will be driving home at 2AM through back roads, maybe without cell reception. Although I've driven the car since the first incident, I've only been out during the day and have avoided the highways. I won't have this option in a few days. I'm hoping that new wires, plugs, and a PCV valve will do the trick. If not, it may be time to bite the bullet, bring the car to a service station and get ready to open the wallet up. I must say I'm quite surprised to hear that factory vs. 3rd-party wires can make such a difference, but I trust that the people on this forum know their stuff, so I'll return the wires & plugs I bought.

Thanks John. I can return the wires, I guess -- haven't installed them yet. The plugs are Bosch Platinum Plus. They only had 3 NKG plugs in stock, someone had filched the 4th from their last pack of 4, so I went with the Bosch. Is it really that critical? The wires are Duralast and have a lifetime warrantee. Looking again at the code for the cat -- it's hard to figure out, there is what's called an "OEM Number to Cross", which is PO420 (or is the "O" really a zero? Not sure). The slip does mention the O2 sensor under the "explanation": "The oxygen sensors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen." AFA the PCV valve, that's a pretty inexpensive part, no? Sounds like I could do that myself. Thanks again for the tips.

OK I made it back from Autozone Three codes came up: 1: misfire in cylinder 3 -----probable causes: -------ignition system (plugs wires, coil) -------Vacuum leak -------injector fault -------high or low fuel pressure 2: "a malfunction exists in the exhaust gas recirculation flow" "The ECM has detected too little flow on the EGR system" -----probable causes: -------blocked passage on EGR system -------failed EGR valve -------EGR solenoid faulty -------failed EGR pressure sensor where applicable 3: "The PCM has detected that the catalyst system efficiency for bank 1 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank). -----probable causes: -------Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to #2, 3 or 4) -------(#2) Engine misfire or running condition -------(#3) Large vacuum leak -------(#4) Engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings ******************* I'm not surprised to see the code for the cat. converter, AFAIK it's the original. The issues with vacuum leaks seem to come up with all three codes. Is there a characteristic sound of a vaccum hose that's disconnected or has a leak? I would think that I'd hear a hissing noise but that's not the case. Perhaps a hose is plugged? In any event, I bought a wire set and four plugs, and will do those today or tomorrow. If I'm real lucky, maybe my #3 spark plug was fouled and I'll be OK after replacing it. I did look into an EGR valve -- the store didn't have one but could order it, it's $180. I have no idea if this is a DIY job for someone like me -- I have not much more than a metric socket set and some wrenches (but Sears is having a sale in their tools dept. right now !) Thanks again to everyone for the very helpful information! I feel like I'm a little closer to getting this car fixed -- I hope to get another year out of it!

Olnick, I just saw your reply AFTER I finished my last post. Thanks! I will try to make it to Autozone now!

Gloyale, thanks! I was just about to head to Autozone (or, try to make it to Autozone ) when I read your post. No the defrost was not on, just regular heat. I looked under my dash. There are five loose connectors that I see: two are green, one is yellow, one is gray and one small black one. I'm going to try & attach a picture I just took. The green connectors appear to be just 1 wire, and one is male & the other female so I can plug those two together (in the pic, one of the green connectors is hidden behind the other one). I guess this means I do have the OBDII connector? Thanks again for your help. [on preview: the pic is showing up larger than the actual size, don't know why that is. Sorry if that's a problem for anybody]

OK, I'm off to the local auto parts store to see if I can get the codes read. However I just returned from running an errand and sure enough the car started running rough right before I made it home. When I got home I popped the hood, engine running, and looked for anything unusual. What I saw was that the radiator fan was going. Normal, I thought, since I was parked & idling. I waited a few minutes expecting the fan to cycle off, but that never happened. The temp gauge never went above normal at any time, and the heater was blowing hot air. I thought it a little strange that the fan never turned off after at least 5 minutes. Anyway, maybe this is a clue, I have read elsewhere about the coolant temp sensor causing roughness, although I never saw an explanation of why this is.

Thanks for these replies. I had no idea that any auto parts place could read the codes! I'll get that done, and check my wires, and be back here soon after.

My Legacy with 202K has been very very good to me, until a few nights ago. It started running rough, and stalled on a hill. Took me a while to get it started but eventually I did and made it home. The next day I checked fluids for levels & signs of head gasket failure -- I was down a little oil & coolant but no milky stuff (I have the 2.2 engine so hopefully there's less chance of HG problems). Water temp was normal during the rough running. Now, the car starts fine & runs OK, however the rough running returned after driving it a while, so it may be related to when the engine reaches operating temp, although I am pretty sure the engine was at temp for a while and running OK before the problem started again. I've been a bit neglectful about standard maintenance stuff, so I guess I should just do as much as I can (which isn't much!)-- wires, plugs, PCV, hoses, etc...but I'd feel better if I wasn't on a complete fishing trip here. Any tips from the more knowledgeable people here would be appreciated! I should add that the check engine light has been on for a few months now (maybe longer), however I assumed it was a bad sensor since -- up to now -- the car was running great. And the local Subie dealer wants $90 just to read the codes. And I am an underemployed musician.

There are many different types of booster seats. I have never seen any seat that has integrated shoulder belts. The one with arms, along with the seats with the 5-point harnesses are for babies, not 7-year-olds. And the plain fact is that the Legacy rear seat can't fit three seats across if one of them is the larger child seat w/harness (not to mention the fact that your typical 7-yr-old would NEVER let themselves be put in one ). Anyway, the question is moot for me since the third child has dropped out of this private school, so I'll only need to fit two kids now! I'm still going to see what the deal is with this "anchor for belt", and may wind up using it since one of the moms has a small child I may need to drive now & then (younger bro. of one of the two 7-yr-olds). Thanks for the reply, I appreciate your trying to help!

I just returned from my local Subaru dealer. After I explained my situation he went into the back, then came out and said it was doable. Turns out he wasn't selling a belt per se, but an "anchor set." He told me I would need to find a belt somewhere else. I stressed that I thought it was possible that this was an anchor for a child seat, NOT a shoulder belt. He told me that the description of the part was "anchor for belt", and offered to reimburse me if it didn't work for a shoulder belt (it's a special order that I'll get next week; normally they're non-refundable. For $18 I decided to take a shot, though I'm betting it's a child seat anchor. The part # is 96031AC000RA if that means anything to anybody).

Yes, I think the anchor points are not the same as potential bolt holes for mounting a shoulder belt retrofit kit. Hopefully I'll be finding out the exact scoop when I visit the parts dept. of my local Subie dealer today. I'm pretty sure there are no booster seats with built-in shoulder belts. I did some searching on the web but only found generic kits to install SIDE shoulder belts.

Thanks, I'll be stopping by my local dealer today!

My daughter just started at a private school and I'm trying to get hooked up in a carpool so I can get a break from driving every morning! The problem is that I would need to transport THREE kids (all in booster seats) and my '95 Legacy FWD sedan only has shoulder belts in the rear side positions, not center. Is there a way? TIA for any tips!

Thanks, I'll fire up the hair dryer tomorrow. BTW I found my glass for $27 at subarupartsforyou.com. Like I said, though, it appears they made a mistake and sent me the heated glass -- or maybe they just substituted it.