reeze

The existing cracked glass is set into the mirror housing and has what looks like a rubber bezel around it. Probably not wise to just glue/tape on top of it, although to be honest I really just need to pass inspection (the existing mirror works enough for me to rely on it, just a single crack going down the middle). >>to remove glued/taped items, you can put them in the oven and heat them up. usually comes right off then.<< Which means I'll be removing the entire mirror and putting it in the oven? I'm not sure I want to do that. I wonder if there's some kind of solvent I can squirt behind the old glass, then just pry it off. Or maybe just break it completely?

I just had the idea of putting this new glass right on top of the old one...that would make installation pretty simple!

I just don't want to do anything stupid here. Before I start trying to pry off the cracked glass (which I'm a little nervous about), I'm hoping maybe someone here has done this already. Do I need to remove the whole mirror? I do have the replacement glass, it came with two pieces of double-sided foam tape. If the cracked glass is held on like that then it shouldn't be too difficult to get off, I would think. Also, I ordered the NON-heated glass, however what they sent me definitely has a heating coil & two electrical contacts on the back. Maybe I'll get lucky and see some wires inside my mirror to connect to them (AFAIK I *don't* have a heated mirror). Thanks for any assistance!

You take off the solenoid cover BEFORE you slide the starter off the studs & off the engine? This will probably be obvious once I start, but it doesn't hurt to be 100% sure. Absolutely. The battery cables come off first. Thanks again for your input.

According to 91Loyale, you were right initially -- it's a 14 & a 17mm nut. Not exactly sure how a box wrench is going to fit, but if you say you used one it must be possible! Hoping what I have will do the job:

>>I had to pull pretty hard on the 17mm bolt with a long box wrench, so 3/8" drive might be a tough go<< That's exactly the kind of thing I meant by "anything extra I need to be aware of", thanks! I think I have an extra-long socket handle (not racheting, though). I also remember there not being much room to maneuver. I'm not rebuilding, just replacing two contacts in the solenoid. Once I have the starter off it should be pretty easy.

I previously posted about a problem I had starting my Legacy: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70832 (Synopsis: I probably need to replace the starter contacts). I am vying for the "procrastinator of the year" award because I am just at the point of trying to do this repair myself now. When the weather got warmer the starting problems almost disappeared. Now it's been getting harder to start every day so I better deal with it . I have the new contacts ready to go. In the original thread, 91Loyale made it sound pretty easy to pull the starter. I have a "weekend mechanic" minimum set of tools -- basically a Craftsman 3/8" socket wrench and a metric socket set with the correct size sockets. From a preliminary look, it seems one of the nuts holding the starter is in a tight spot (it's underneath, I can't see it). I'm a bit nervous about starting this because with my schedule (mainly chauffeur for my 6-yr-old to school & other activities ), I can't risk starting a repair where I might get into trouble. I'm hoping someone here can tell me whether I need more in the way of tools, or whether there is anything extra to be aware of before I start this. As a kid, I pulled the engine on my '74 DL wagon (to do a clutch), so I'm not entirely green. It just seems like I always run into some unforeseen issue when I start these seemingly simple repairs! TIA for any advice.

I'll try that, thanks. Since this problem started I've always released the key immediately if I only heard a click. I thought it was bad for the ignition coil or starter motor to keep it energized like that.

OB99 and 91Loyale: what great information, thanks again. That PDF article is gold, it really explains everything. In response to one post here-- not sure if I mentioned it originally, but the battery is brand new (when the problem first happened I just assumed that it was the battery). Also, I removed the battery cables, cleaned the contacts (both the battery posts and the cable contacts) then tightened them up nicely. This morning I got the "click" again (it's always a single click, not a rapid "click-click-click") a few times. Then, remembering what I read here about the shift position switch, I jiggled the shift lever and the car started right up. For the rest of the day it was fine. This COULD be a coincidence though-- AAMOF I can't believe it would be this simple; I don't have luck like this! I'll find out tomorrow morning! Thanks again for the help.

BTW a previous message I thought I posted isn't here, so I'll repeat it: thanks everyone for your suggestions on what to look at! I'm hoping it's just a bad connection somewhere. I'll be outside tomorrow morning with my voltmeter!

How hard is it to remove the starter? I'm still not sure that the small hump on the transmission I'm seeing (where the wire from the battery is going to) is the starter motor itself, it seems too small.

Thanks all of you for your helpful suggestions. I'll be outside with my voltmeter in the morning. Now I remember a few instances where the cranking was labored. It seems like dirty connections somewhere (at least I'm hoping that's what it is!).

This started happening when the weather got colder (I park the car outside). Turn the key, "click", nothing else. Do it a few times and eventually it starts. I replaced the battery but the problem continues. Now sometimes I don't even hear a click. HOWEVER...when it does "catch", the starter cranks just fine and the car starts right up. Once the car is warm, I can drive it around during the day and I have no problem starting it. After a while parked in the cold though, the issue returns. I see a thick wire going from the battery to a part on the engine-- it looks too small to be a starter motor! I suppose this is the solenoid & starter though. Could this be a case of bad grounds? I was going to disconnect & clean the connection to the solenoid/starter but I think I need a socket set with a universal joint to get at the nut. Any hints are appreciated. This is my 3rd Legacy (I had a '91, then a '92), and I've never had this problem before. The car is an automatic (I understand there's a relay on the tranny that connects to the starter, I can't find it though). Thanks!!

Well, I filled the radiator with about 1/2 gallon of bottled water (actually I poured some of that into the overflow tank). Then I ran the engine, waiting for the thermostat to open up, thinking I would add more. It never seemed to happen, and the temp gauge needle went to it's old spot, right under the middle, and stayed there. I took the car out--drove to the auto parts store and bought a thermostat & some antifreeze. Then I drove on the highway for a bit to go to a shopping center, then back home. The needle never went beyond the middle of the range, and the car seemed fine--no abnormal smell, no steam coming from the tailpipe. Maybe I dodged a bullet? Of course I'm still going to do the thermostat, empty the radiator and put fresh water & antifreeze in. Thanks for the tips about the water, I'm glad I didn't use my tap water! One thing--the "check engine" light is still on. Gotta get that checked, I guess.

That is a very good tip, thanks! I could have gotten into some trouble.

Thanks Manarius! It's behind the blue thingie, right?

Wow, three other replies while I was replying to porcupine73! Thanks all. >>When was the last time you checked the temp specs on the coolant? Change in temp outside could cause these problems, but proubably not the loss of water.<< I don't know what you mean by "check the temp specs on the coolant." I live in the New York area, and just the last two nights it has been getting colder (we had our first frost warning two night ago). >>Check the oil level and make sure it isent filling up highter with water<< Oil level doesn't seem high and there's no overt evidence of water (i.e., "milkyness"). >>when was the last time you changed your timming belt?<< Changed this past summer. >>It is possable you have a bad sensor and you can change it to see if it makes any difference. THe sensor is right under the egr valve on the pass side on the little water duct above the block itself.<< Since I only have a vague idea of what an egr valve looks like, I'm not able to see this sensor. I followed the upper radiator hose to the engine inllet, it passes under the manifold and everything looks pretty inaccessible--unless I'm looking at the wrong spot. I assume the sensor is a dealer part too, correct?

Thanks for the quick reply! So I just open a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, empty it out, then refill? I remember seeing "flush kits" in parts store that let you attach a garden hose and flush out the engine. Do those still exist, and would it be preferrable? Now here's another stupid question: I have no antifreeze so I'm going to have to fill with water just so I can drive to the parts store. My tap water is very hard, can this harm the engine? I do have some bottled water on hand.

I have a '95 Legacy FWD, bought used about 3 yrs ago. It has about 133K on it. A few days ago my check engine light goes on, I'm concerned but the car seems fine so I'm thinking it's a bad sensor. Last night I'm driving and happen to glance at the temp gauge, it's nearing the top of the scale. I turn the heater on and set the temp to hot; the needle moves down to the middle. After a few minutes, though, the air is blowing cold and the needle starts moving back up. After a minute or two more, though, the air starts getting warm again and the needle moves down to the middle. I made it home without further incident. This morning I check the coolant reservoir and it's empty. I have never been motivated to fill or even check the coolant level in this car since it ALWAYS ran cool (needle just under the middle). Yes, my bad. One thing is that I have no owner manual. I remember reading somewhere that you add coolant to the reservoir, NOT by opening the cap and pouring directly into the radiator. Am I right? Is there anything else I need to know about this simple procedure? Now the question is if this is a new problem or just my lazyness in checking the coolant level. The oil looks OK, but I haven't yet checked to see if there's steam coming from the tailpipe. Hoping this is just the thermostat and low coolant level...any advice is appreciated, thanks!

That sounds lucky, good for you! By any chance, is your headlight bulb this type: or this: Mine is the first type, the contacts seem more prone to getting wet than the second. I guess I'll just keep my eyes open for boots and see what happens. Maybe spray some wire-dryer on there once in a while. I'll let you know if I find two boots!

Thanks yohy, it did cross my mind that a junkyard would be the place to find this part. I'll make a few calls tomorrow!

I hope that's the right terminology. It's the rubber "cup-like" piece that covers & seals the headlight socket assembly. I had a short that fried one of the sockets. I destroyed the boot getting the socket out. Replacing the socket was easy (standard part at any auto supply store), but I think I should have some kind of boot on there. I haven't bothered checking with a Subie dealer as I'm assuming it's either not available for a car this old, only sold as part of an entire socket assembly, or outrageously expensive. Any suggestions for finding one, or something that would do the job, are appreciated. Thanks!

I hear you, I was at Sears yesterday contemplating their 117 piece Companion--not Craftsman--"mechanic's" tool set--for $40. Should have done it, but I thought at the time that the $4 3/8" to 1/4" adapter would get me through this job. I didn't find out I was wrong until later.

Not that anyone will still be reading this thread, but... I did replace the alternator belt, it was a piece of cake. The A/C belt was another matter. Unfortunately I only have a 3/8" socket handle (not a rachet), and my 12mm socket is a 1/4" drive; I use a 3/8" to 1/4" adaptor. There is not enough clearance between the locking bolt and the plastic housing that protects the fan for me to get the socket on the bolt. A closed-end wrench with a little offset would probably be the ideal tool for this. In any event, the old alternator belt was was pretty well gone, the a/c belt is in much better condition so it can probably wait. Thanks again everybody for your guidance!

Thanks Matt! I got a little scared after reading the previous reply, but you've set my mind at ease. I'm off to the parts store today! And thanks for your reply too, 92svxman. Sounds like you thought I was doing the timing belt too. Actually, I *will* be having that job done in Maine in about a week. The cost here in the NY area=$375. Maine? $160!