Tosh

I do have a really nice ea81 radiator ( think its a two row) anyone know how hard it is to fit an ea81 radiator in a ea82 with a lift and EJ22 swap?

yeah I only ghetto rigged my EJ radiator in there because it was free and my EA one was trashed.

cool thanks! I've got a 01 EJ22, but no intake just the airbox with the 90 degree bend towards the front.

Zip ties all day. I drilled another hole so it goes into the lower mount but it still sits a slight angle.

you got any pictures of how your snorkel is hooked up in the engine bay? I've been thinking about adding one to my wagon and am trying to figure out the best route.

I was gonna say something, but Noah said it better then I ever could. 2x rollover there probably isn't anything worth saving, maybe the motor. Just be glad nobody got hurt.

I'd be game for one in the $250-350 range.

you definitely want to do this when you have the lift blocks off the car. I tried to do mine by simply pulling the old rods out and putting new ones in 4 hours later I had 1 in.

Ugh yep thats the SAME clunk I get when I lift off the gas. Mine seems to come from the passenger front strut/axel area. I just got my new EMPI axel in the mail yesterday I'll see if it goes away after swapping.

Bumpin this back from the dead. Rig has been running good, got me around when it snowed here this winter. I'm needing it to feel a more DD role so time to "fix" some things. It was my birthday on the 3rd and I got some things from amazon. new EMPI axel, axel pin removal tool, and some KYB GR2 struts. Axel, tool, and rear struts are here just waiting on the fronts.

Okay thats the info I was looking for before diving into this project myself. zzz did you have to do anything fancy behind the bulb as far as the adapter plate? or did you just clamp it down onto the OEM 'plate' ? Also did you use a 35w or 50w kit?

I'm in for one. Once you get past the initial "testing" phase you could probably get a "pre order" going. Also you could look at http://www.kickstarter.com/ I don't know if it would be an "issue" with the copyright/patient stuff but if your project was just to develop a "plan" that could print it I'm sure that'd work.

the problem is a soft line is going to loose you a lot of PSI, even a steel braided one isn't going to be as good as a hardline. I would sugest picking up the factory EA82T or other FI pump for cheap at the junk yard seeing how it runs for you. If its giving your issues upgrade to a larger 'performance' pump. A Walbro 255LPH pump can be had for around the same price as that "factory" pump you linked too. http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-7936323-walbro-gsl392-255lph-inline-fuel-pump.html If I recall correctly its the return line thats too small. Also don't forget to upgrade your fuel soft lines lines to FI rated hoses. Especially if you are going with a bigger aftermarket pump. I'd like to go to a walbro unit in the future its just towards the end of a long list of things I want to fix/upgrade. As for the tach I just used the "engine speed" signal coming from the ECU and wired it directly into the "tachometer" works fine. Thats the only picture I have of what I wired in behind the dash. My 1986 didn't have a ECU so I just wired the water temp, vss, and tachometer directly into the dash.

I have a 2001 Phase II EJ22 into my 86 carbed wagon. You will throw codes for the fuel tank sensors but they won't put you into a limp mode. as for your fuel pump I just used one I got from mike(i think he scored it at a JY) works fine. Your main problem is going to be your fuel lines. They aren't the right size. I have the same problem that Tex has/had where sometimes it will "bog down" feels like maybe the engine isn't getting enough fuel its still totally drivable. You could swap in some FI lines or make your own if this is "too big" of an issue for you. Its really not for me.

top of the column for EA82 Side of column for EA81 I've spent a good five minutes trying to find it on my EA81 before. Sorry for the pasty white leg if thats NSFW

any particular reason you pulled off the sandwich? I'm looking at "cheap" way to get my factory gauge to read correctly.

mine sounds like its coming from the passenger front area, same side I have the bad CV. I thought it was an engine or trans mount but I checked them the other day and they look okay.

ugh, I have the same clunk only I ONLY get it under deceleration, and only when I'm not using the brakes. IE when I'm driving along and lift off the gas to coast. I have a CV joint that I know is blown and struts that sound horrible. So those are first up to be fixed.

Good to know thanks

Dang, I'm glad I read this I was about to pull the trigger on a brand new EMPI axel. I've actually never "rebuilt" an CV axel before and would kind of like to give it a shot. I've read up Numbchux guide (Here) to axel rebuild and I'm pretty sure I can "get this done no problem. Is there a quality "rebuild" kit out there with new bearings and whatnot ? or is the best way to just clean and re-grease? I've read this guide: http://www.scifaith.com/clickers/ recommends swapping the outer joints drivers/passenger. Good idea? Lastley who makes the best boot, besides OEM subaru? I had heard good things about the EMPI silicone ones but idk if those where worth it after GD said their are issues with the EMPI stuff.

Your thread was the one I was looking at to "see if it could be done" . I'm all for upgrading to newer gen stuff and I'm getting a pretty good deal on PS rack + lines from an 02 wrx. My only other thought is how hard is it to swap over the whole steering column do does it even come close?

Yeah its been living on a shelf for a while, 2 moves, and apparently too much beer for my friends "before" moving. One of my friends said it doesn't look like its "spinning" well IE some resistance. Could that just be from having no fluid in it for so long?

I have a 86 ea82 wagon with a 4 inch lift and a 01 EJ22 out of a outback sport swapped in. My wagon came with a manual rack so when I got my engine (with ac and PS) I put the pump and compressor on a shelf and never looked at them again. Do to some problems with the manual rack I have now (over 260k on it) I was looking at swapping to power steering. since I already have an EJ I'd like to keep it all EJ if possible. I'm picking up a PS rack and lines from a 02 WRX next weekend. And I thought I had the pump down but when I went to make sure I still had all the bolts to bolt it up to the block I noticed some "wobble" in my pulley. I've moved twice since the pump has been off the engine and its quite possible someone dropped it. Is there an easy way to tell if my pulley is bent or if it is the actual shaft?

I did an EJ swap and lifted at the same time I've been driving it a lot now and I was trying to figure out my MPG. its been a while since I've had to actually do math I did a 4inch lift and went from 185/70/R13 tires to 225/70/R14 witch is 13.8% larger as according to http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html so I filled up and drove 210 miles (as according to my factory speedo) filled up again and it took 7.6 gallons. correct me if I'm wrong but the math would be 210 x 1.138 / 7.6 = 31.4 miles x tires / gas = MPG

I was lucky and did my motor swap while doing my lift. I was using a lift kit that didn't extend the rear subframe so I lifted the rear by the subframe I'm pretty sure the SJR kit does require subframe removal. I lifted mine by the unibody like this. it all worked out okay.