Nomad

I have a q about that... As I've never seen a set of MPFI heads on their own, I'm figuring the reason why they are required for this swap is because the injectors are mounted on the head, correct? If this is the case, is there no way that said injectors could be mounted in the intake <im thinking modified Spyder> Just thinking out loud...

There are four fan speeds, and three resistors. The reason the blower resistor pack is in the airstream of the actual blower fan is to keep them <the resistors> cool, and holding back <resisting> that much current creates a LOT of heat. Now here's the catch. THe LOWEST fan speed requires the MOST resistance. The more resistance, the less amperage flow, and the slower the blower spins. The higher resistance coils also tend to be physically smaller. <like a tiny staw can only pass so much milkshake> Therefore, when the blower is on its lowest setting, it is also moving the least amount of air, when that poor little resistor is creating the most heat, and soon, the resistor just bites the dust... Thats why 1 and 2 so commonly go, because number three is resisting the least current, and the blower is moving enough air to keep that sucker cool <and the rest of the car warm > Number 4 is straight-though, so to speak, it bypasses the resistors. Your switch setup is probably giving a resistance similar or close to what number three might have been... ? I'm gonna go figure out a way to replace those freakin things...sounds like we ALL need a solution.

Yup, Subaru did do all the R&D, AND they also made things WAY too complex by integrating EVERYTHING into one wiring harness. Other mfg like GM, Ford, etc have one separate harness for the FI/ECM/PCM, and one for the rest of the car, so removing/installing/modding/swapping the FI system is one heck of a lot simpler than using a Sube's electronics... As for the CIS system, THAT is ingenuity in motion! The person who did that now has an extremely reliable, mechanically-based FI system, that could be turbocharged overnight if he wanted to... never mind the fact that it could withstand EMP. Also, I don't beleive ANYONE has ever hacked an older Subaru's ECM, or found any way to modify it. Why else do you think we all putz around with boost bleeds and fuel cuts? If there was a way into the bloody ECM in the first place, we wouldn't need to work around issues like that. I've always loved Subaru's, but I have to say, the wiring/electronics and engine management could have been made a LOT simpler, especially for the shade-tree mechanic. If I could swap a GM tbi system onto mine, I'd do it...although now I am considering that CIS... Just my 02...

I second this question. I've researched many fuel injection options for my other cars, but never my Sube. THe only stumbling block I think I'd find with the Sube is Ignition timing and control... Didn't someone find a way to mod another 4 cyl disty to fit a Sube <was that an Escort or something?> If thats the case, the rest should be simple. Not easy...just simple

Turns out that the centre hole was a *tight* fit, so I had the hub centres taken down by about a 64th. They did that for free. The rims would fit, but VERY tight. I wanted to be able to take the wheels off, sometime! Still drivin',

Yes to all of the above!! As for the hp use, i don't feel much difference... I suppose if I was dragging it, I MIGHT gain about 1/100 of a second off that awesome 18 second quarter mile time:lol: And anyway, my a/c compressor is on duty now as an onboard air compressor, so I don't really use it that often. It kind of balances out...Besides, i need something to run those lights and charge the dual batteries...nevermind the winch i'll get soon. For the Love of Subie!

Oh, OH, pick me! pick me! Over here! I know this one!!! <waving arm frantically...> Okay, first off, I don't have pics. Second, I had access to a shop at the time: read, welder and a whole bunch of used alts lying around, for pulleys... The alt is a CS model from an 86 fwd bonneville... It was serpentine, and I used a pulley from an old ford one...think it was from a rustang 2.3. Having figured out the wiring makes it easy to install the 140 amper I got from a Caddy... POWER! Anyhow, I read a bunch of stuff on CS alts, and how its really easy to install them on just about anything, you just need the right bracket configuration. I fabbed my own. as for the wiring, I made an adapter, so no cutting was done on the Sube's own harness. Only two wires are actually necessary. One is the output, the other IIRC, is to supply the field voltage or something like that. In fact, the alt I used and the orig Sube alt worked the same way, just had difft connectors... I'm gonna go refresh my memory and look under my hood...theres a link I have somewhere on GM alts that'll explain a bunch. I figure once you understand how things work, you can make it work on anything... doesn't really matter who made it... This mod is worth it! Good luck

6 lugs are better than four, I say! Anyhow, I went the slighty lazy route... I had a shop drill out the holes since I sold all my machinery, a while back. I honestly have no idea what size bit they used...although i bet they used a few of them! As for the studs, I used stock Subies, as the holes were bang on tight. mine wont budge. I welded up the uneven portions, then ground them flat... i had to do this both front and rear IIRC, as I've got rear discs. I used Mazda 14" rims, as I don't have a lift yet, and their offsets match the original rims perfectly.

Yeah, my 89 DL only has 3 and 4... but at least she's always warm! I never quite finished figuring out a way to convert those fragile little things to those from a another make, namely chevy...those ones never go. Of course, If we knew wht the actual resistance values on a NEW resistorpack was, maybe standard resistors would work.

yep, all that is in order... All the stuff listed, I did literally one item at a time. 'specially with plug wires, I never rip everything apart at once, cos then putting back together, anything can happen... At any rate, a local mechanic recommended changing the coil, as he mentioned a yellow spark isnt the most healthy. Funny thing is, the coil that was in there is an Accel super stock thats only got 20,000 kms on it<i put that on new>... and the coil(s) i put in seem to give the same spark strength visually.. !? Guys, i really appreciate your help, and your patience...this has been confounding me. I am by no means an "expert" mechanic, but I've looked at everything I know how to and then some. I'm very frustrated. My Sube's never given me trouble like this. :cornfuzz: I don't have auto seatbelts, so that relay thing isn't an issue...I read that in an archived post somewhere. The fuel flow is strong as I crank, I've actually pulled the fuel line after the filter and the damn thing sprayed halfway across my driveway (instead of into the bucket ) <sigh>... I'm gonna give another check on the plugs and wires, just to be sure. Thanks, all

Hi there! I dropped my tranny when I did mine. On four blocks, in the driveway...took me a weekend. Course, I didn't have ALL the tools right at my fingertips AND the real reason I dropped the trans was to replace it with the D/R, and I was doing both cv shafts anyway. I've never pulled a Sube engine, so I don't personally know how hard it is, but I've been told its easier to go that route than to drop the tranny. Be sure of your torque values, ESPECIALLY on the pressureplate, and do everything you can while you're in there...of course you'd think that was common sense, but you'd be amazed at how many ppl have said to me that "well, I didn't change the pilot bearing cause it didn't need it at the time...":cornfuzz: My $0.02 Good Luck!

Hi there! Okay... on the advice of a Subaru techie, I changed the coolant thermosensor <BRAND new OEM $90!!> , BUT it seems to be in a different location than the one you described.... The one i changed, was right near the throttlebody, and yup it had a wired pigtail...it just looks like a threaded hunk o' brass, like a bolt with wires on the head of it. Unfortunately, this did not cure the problem. Did I change the wrong one? I was assured that this one was "not for the guage, but for the computer".:cornfuzz: Any thoughts? BTW, you guys rock! Thanks for the help!

Any ideas? Anyone? :cornfuzz:

Hello all! Wow, cool forum... been awhile since I've been around <no net access> It sure was a surprise to be redirected here! Anywho, my Wagon's got a very annoying problem... In short, i guess since the weather is cold, she wont start. :cornfuzz: She's an SPFI. Here's what I've done so far: New cap, rotor, plugs, wires. The contacts between the rotor and cap are clean. Two different coils, one original, one accel super stock. Two different coil modules, one original, one from a running Sube. Tested for spark at each plug. Compression is good all around. Fuel pressure good, fuel pump operating, injector is pulsing, fuel in the tank, lines are not frozen <not cold enought yet for that anyway> Distributor rotor is turning, timing belts are not "off" and are not broken. The check engine light is not on. The vehicle has sat since this morning when it started then stalled, and i used a little quick start, the plugs are clean, so i rule out flooding....:cornfuzz: She was running great yesterday... what in the world happened? Any thoughts or input GREATLY appreciated....