TheGr8Doughboy

Here's a picture of where it's leaking.... this is the firewall side of the motor between the head and the block on the EJ25... please help!

I'll give that a try... however, it's leaking a lot. I drove about 1.5 hours round trip to school this morning and she sucked down the entire overflow resivior

Lurker on here... got some great help a while back with my 02 sensor not throwing a code. Car: 2000 Outback Lagacy with EJ25 Here's the trouble: I've got coolant dripping from the motor across the tierods and onto the exhaust manifold. I cannot see anything leaking from the top and I'm having trouble seeing where this is... or could be coming from. Driviablity has not changed. Only leaks when it's running... We just had a little trouble with the thermostat sticking so it's fresh coolant, t-stat and temp sender to the guage. Where do I look? Could this be HG?

Replaced the 02 sensor. That was it. Runs fine now... I didn't expect it would be that easy! Thanks so much for the help. I'll be around looking to get this car running ton notch. Thanks Chris

The dealership said yesterday that there were no recalls for her vin number? I'm headed there as soon as they open to grab one. Chris

I think the 02 code may have been an old code. The car owner admitted that she'd seen the engine light come on for about 10 mins as she was merging onto the interstate so I think the 02 code may have been from that. Since that light came on we have driven the car probably about 500 miles and 2 weeks. There was a check engine light that came on when I got the misfire readings. If I unplug the first 02 sensor will this cause the ECU to continue to run "closed loop"? Is there a way to set the ECU to closed loop so I can drive this to the dealership if the 02 sensor does not fix this tomarrow to let them run a diagnostic for it ($80). Thanks again for the continued help. Chris

OK, I unhooked the 02 sensor that's in the cat (I don't know if this is sensor 1 or sensor 2) but it ran ok at first untill the car warmed up. So do I need both an 02 sensor and the engine temp sensor? Secondly. After getting to know my Subie a little better I found that the FWD fuse slot is empty. Does this mean my OBW is in front wheel drive? or that I need to insert a fuse to put it in FWD? Chris

Thanks for the help. I did check for intake leaks with carb cleaner. And the cruiser is getting SOA and 700r4 with NP203 as a doubler. There was no oil on the plugs just on the plug wire boot... just thought the oil was kinda strange. Anyway, the old plugs were gapped a little big .050 or so but otherwise really clea. Here's an update: New plugs and fuel filter (plug wires are not in stock, will call dealership in a second) Started up fine, stumbled a couple of times at idle I assumed as the fuel fliter filled up. So I took it for a test drive. Fine as first and I called my brother (he's a Subie owner as well) to celebrate. As soon as he picked up it stalled out at a stop sign. Then started right back up and kept going, slight uphill it started bogging down, this time instead of bucking and carrying on it started missing and backfiring. And when it was missing and carrying on as soon as I kicked it into neutral it ran fine then fine for a second back in drive before it repeated. Still no check engine light... I did only drive it for about 10 mins. Is 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 the one in the cat? Does this thing have an EGR valve? I haven't found anything yet... Thanks for all of the help so far. Chris

Ok. Ruled out the tranny. Went and got the codes read again and got PO301-PO302-PO303-PO304 engine misfire on all cylinders.... Now what? There's a little motor oil on the boots of the plug wires where they enter the head. Strange? maybe not. Coil? Haven't pulled the plugs yet (getting there) but this could explain the 02 code right? With the unburned fuel? Thanks Chris

Wouldn't a bad speed sensor give a code? Will I be able to read tranny codes with the OBDII scanner? What tells these converters to lock up? It should be a combination of the speed sensor and a throttle position sensor right? What else can I do to trouble shoot it? What can I rule out at this point? A friend of mine stopped by for lunch and we were pondering it and he looked at the oil on the dipstick and noted that it almost looked like clean motor oil, but it definately smelled like ATF. (I'm pulling the dipstick on the drivers side up by the firewall) It's hard to tell the color by the thin film on the dipstick... Bus Brother, good call on that. Sounds more in my budget than a $100 tranny flush. Gettin a little worried Chris

Ok. Allowed the car to warm up, selected all of the gears then checked the fluid. It's on the low side of the cold marks. No leaking underneath. It's a little wet around the pan gasket but nothing I would consider a full on leak. There's no discoloration in the overflow tank in the radiator everything's fine there (she does a good job of checking her oil and coolant and sindsheild washer fluid ) I will try and catch some of the tranny fluid in a cup for examination. Ok, here's the plan. I'm going to order the 02 sensor. Then to a fuild filter change on the tranny. However I can't do any work in her parking lot... can I move it a couple of miles to my apartment without risking more damage? Thanks so much Chris

Even though this isn't my car I have driven it quite a bit and we have had no warning signs of anything being wrong. The tach behaved exactly as expected when shifting or accelerating. However when it was bucking and surging it would maintian a constant RPM (I noticed 2K in particular during one spell). Bubbles. She has the camera with her out of town so I cannot post a picture. The fluid was definately a dark red with brown hue. The bubbles were in small groups (3-4) and there were 3-4 groups of them on there. They looked like air bubbles, like you'd findin hand blown glass, rather than contaminant (but this is my first auto trouble shooting). Thanks for the link. I neglected to select all of the gears before checking the fluid level. I will go do that now. Thanks so much, I searched before posting and couldn't find anything that matched these symptoms. Chris

First post, I searched a little and read some horror stories with the trannys... hopefully this is not the case. I'm a decent wrench but I'm used to older Toyotas... and this fuel injection and ECU stuff is new territory My girlfriend lets me have her car today since mines out of commission (F*rd) but all of a sudden it's running really poorly! I must fix this before she gets back in town Monday or she WILL KILL ME. Car: 2000 Subaru Legacy Outback. She bought it at 50K it's at 73K this is her frist trouble with it Symptoms: Getting a bad O2 sensor from OBDII scan... but no check engine light Lopes a little at idle (attributing that to bad O2 sensor) When starting from a stop it boggs down 'till you give it more gas then takes off It "bucks" while cruising at any speed above 25 mph... give it more gas and it bogs down for a second then drives fine. If I rev it up in the parking lot... it's fine The tach doesn't jump around but at a stop light it was surging/stumbling and the tach didn't register that either Turned into a gas station and pressed the gas... nothing. Put it in nuetral and reved it up then put it in drive and it limped up the grade. Fluid smells like... well tranny fluid. It's not red... kind of a brown hue and frothy (car was running, I think that's right isn't it?) and had enough fluid. Guesses Tranny issue and the torque converter is going in and out of lock up Fuel pressure regulator? But not really cuase it idles ok... No way the 02 sensor could cause this... I was worried I wouldn't make it back to the house... right? Help please. I know the 02 Sensor needs to be replaced but we're on a real tight budget so that may have to wait till the tranny gets sorted out. (<- read poor college students) Thanks Chris