Brettm57

It's fixed! I found a similiar canister valve on a '85GL car I've got and replaced the offending CPV on my '92 with that. I also left the battery unhooked overnight, hoping that would clear the computer. Apparently it did, because the CEL stays off now. I let it run for about ten minutes and it didn't light up. It did light up after a couple of minutes after leaving the battery unhooked overnight. Finally! It's beer time! And again, thanks for your help. Now I fix the brakes.... Oh boy!

OK, I've got my battery charged up, and the CEL is working like it's supposed to. I hooked up the white leads, turned on the key, and I get number 35, a bad canister purge valve. Life is good! I found the vacuum lines crossed going to the purge valve, and I'm hoping that was the problem. If not, I'll replace the valve. Now, can you tell me how to clear the computer after it's fixed? Maybe this job is finally winding down. I've got to thank you guys again for your help on this, I don't think I would have ever figured it out on my own.

It's now 6:35 AM, and I have to go do a job. As soon as I get home (late afternoon), I'll jump the battery in my car and check the CEL. I'm thinking that it doesn't light up until I actually start the car. Does this mean anything? Thanks for your help guys, I appreciate it.

Al, I'm thinking that my CEL doesn't come on. I say think because the battery is dead and my charger quit working so I can't check it out right now. Yeah, I'm mad! I don't remember it coming on with the key though. Anyhow, if my CEL light doesn't come on with the key on, what could be wrong with that? And how does that tie into the rest of the system as far as troubleshooting? I pretty well understand the rest of what you wrote, and I appreciate it. Maybe I can get this thing straightened out yet!

OK, so the wires under the hood ARE it! What combination of which wires gives me which codes? I tried hooking the green connectors together, and with the key on I got some kind of a snapping noise on the right side of the firewall. Any idea what that is? Also, just to double check, will the code flash out through the LED I found in the ECU with the key on, or is it through the "Check Engine" light like a Legacy? And last, who's Al?

I know it's been posted on here a thousand times, but how do I check the ECU trouble codes on an EA82? This is on a '92 Loyale with SPFI. I read the USRM instructions and found the LED in the ECU that flashes the codes, but I couldn't find the wires to connect together. If I'm reading the instructions right, they're under the dash, right? Can somebody give me the color of the connectors and wires? That might help. I did find some wires by the passenger side firewall (engine side) that looked like they could be it, but according to the instructions they shouldn't be there in this year car. Thanks in advance for your help.

I just rebuilt the left front brake caliper on my '92 Loyale. I've tried everything I can think of, but I can't get all of the air bled out of the system. I had another Loyale that I had a tough time bleeding the brakes. I finally got them by doing a "gravity bleed". Put a hose on the bleed screw, put some brake fluid in a jar, and put the other end of the hose under the fluid. Then open the bleeder and let the fluid run through the hose into the jar, and watch for air bubbles in the hose. When the bubbles are gone, then the system is bled. But this ain't workin' on this car. Is there a step I'm missing, or am I way off base? I really need your help on this one, I'm gettin' really sick of working on this car!

This is on a '90 Legacy. It starts fine when it's cold, but when it's hot you have to hold the throttle tight to the floor to get it to start. It seems to run fine once it starts though. Plus, the check engine light isn't on. I'm guessing maybe something with the MAF sensor? This is my daughter's car, and I'd like to get it straightened out so she isn't stranded somewhere. Thanks.

Can anyone give me some info on recharging the air conditioning system on a '92 Loyale? Such as where and how much oil do I add to the system? What pressures and temps do I look for to know that it is charged? I've never done one before, but my dad has, and is going to teach me how. He has all of the gauges and vacuum pumps, etc. He isn't real familiar with the R134 systems, and needs to know what the working pressures are. I hope someone can help me out. PS: In case anyone wants to know, there was a hole in the condenser when I got the car, so I replaced it and want to recharge the system. I like my AC!

Can you explain to me how this "locking converter" works? I'm guessing that after the engine reaches a certain RPM, it locks up through a centrifugally operated mechanism, kind of like a go-kart or mini-bike clutch? Can you tell me what years and models cars they are in? Sounds like I want to be sure to get one! Thanks.

My '90 Legacy wagon tach needle lays on zero all the time. It used to bounce up and down occasionally and start working, but now it doesn't work at all. Any ideas where I should start looking?

The NAPA bushings do fit right without being machined, the problem is you have to take your distributor apart first to mic the bushings that are in it in order to get the right size. They have a choice of 2 diameters and shouldered or non-shouldered. I rebuilt my distributor last winter. I suppose you could just order them all, then you can't go wrong. I can tell you that the bottom bushing (by the gear) has the shouldered bushing and the top one doesn't. At least that's the way mine was. Tolerance has probably got the best idea for you. Plus in Norway the bushings should already be metric, easier than converting from American inches.

MilesFox, Do you know if an EA81 auto trans bell housing will still need to be ground away to fit? Seems to me that they should interchange, but then I haven't seen an EA81 apart yet, so what do I know?! I'm replacing an EA82 auto tranny now, so I at least partly see what you're talking about. Oh, and one more time, thanks for the info!

MilesFox, Were the torque converters the same on the tranny swap you did? I wonder if the EA82 converter has a higher stall speed? If so, that would be the one I want to use. It doesn't sound like this swap will be too hard to pull off. Thanks for the assist.

So which way would be the most practical, swap end pieces or build a mount to mate the EA82 tranny to the EA81 car? Would the end swap basically be unbolting the end from each tranny and swapping parts, or is there some internal stuff that needs to be disconnected? Also, do you think there would be problems with the swap on the converter end, such as the bell housings matching? If that works out, the only other problem I can think of is hooking up the shifter linkage. I little creativity should solve that though. Thanks.

Is it (EA82) enough longer (than EA81) that it won't line up in the mounts? Could I fab up a mount of my own? And remember I'm referring to the 2 wheel drive version of each. Thanks.

Another bracket racer project question. Can I replace my current EA81 2wd 3spd auto in my '85 hatch with an EA82 2wd 3spd auto from, say, a '92 Loyale? I see they have a 3.700 R&P and 1.023 transfer gears, considerably lower than the EA81 trans in the car now. I'm hoping it's a bolt-in swap.