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Everything posted by Nuwan
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the timing belt is cover is composed of 3 seperate sections. The center section is behind the crank pully. The other two sections (one on each side) can be removed without removing any other belts/components. As stated above, remove the covers and look for cracks, worn or missing teeth and any other signs of aging. good luck:D
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mine does the same, what i do to avoid it is; after setting the cruise speed/ turning it on, keep your foot on the accelerator for an extra second or two... this will prevent the bogging you mentioned before the car resumes the set speed, i figure it just takes a second or two for it to initiate. is our cruise system running off engine vacuum like most systems? i can't remember the last time i looked at it/used it:D
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87 will be fine, some notice improved mileage on higher octane but it isn't neccessary 10w30 is fine, if in colder climate 5w30 is advisable in winter months if it's only a slight vibration/drone i wouldn't worry about it, probably just the boxer characteristics kicking in that you are not used to hope you enjoy your car:D
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Torque
Nuwan replied to tcspeer's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
it's no different than pushing harder on the wrench itself, the measurements i takes are still accurate -
here's the final drive ratios of other subaru models... --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Legacy Turbo Models: Automatic transmission gear ratios: final drive ratio - 4.11 Manual transmission gear ratios: final drive ratio - 3.90 Impreza 2.2l L models: Automatic transmission gear ratios: final drive ratio - 4.11 Manual transmission gear ratios: final drive ratio - 3.90 Impreza 2.5RS models: Automatic transmission gear ratios: final drive ratio - 4.44 Manual transmission gear ratios: final drive ratio - 4.11 WRX 2.0l models: Automatic transmission gear ratios: final drive ratio - 4.11 Manual transmission gear ratios: final drive ratio - 3.90 Impreza WRX STi models: Manual transmission gear ratios: final drive ratio - 3.90 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- The transmissions from the above cars will work on your car, however; if you decide to go to a tranny with a different final drive ratio than your original one you WILL have to either get a matching rear diff or swap in your front diff into the other tranny. Best bet is to change your rear diff as well... The legacy turbo tranny is one of the strongest ones out there so be weary of the strength of non-turbo tranny models. Also take into account that if you go to a shorter final drive ratio tranny you're rpm's will be higher when cruising on the highway, you may not want that (fuel mileage, noise, etc...) hope this helps
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there's a 2.5L supercharger kit for sale on nasioc at the moment... link here coolest part is the neccessary hood bubble needed on the RS...
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the OEM bridgestone potenza's are notorious for having a bad rep, there's a million ppl bitching about the re92's. Having said that these tires were designed to be all-seasons and as all-seasons they are satisfactory in most conditions but not superb in any one area. I've always liked Michelin and Yokohama products myself. But there are many other manufacturers that make equal or better tires for better prices, namely; toyo, kumho, falken and dunlop. I prefer to have dedicated tires for various seasons; full-winters and full-summer tires, as well as a variety of summer race tires and gravel tires, but this is your call. You'll definately notice the added safety and handling if you go with dedicated winters and summer rather than an all season. For all-seasons i'm currently using yokohama avid h4's on the forester and they are an excellent all-round tire, but specialize more in the summer than the winter. hope this helps
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Any Le Canadiens on this board?
Nuwan replied to LegacyT's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
hello fellow canucks:D I'm located in brampton, ontario BoxersOnly; i see you posting on the toronto-subaru-club as well LegacyT; seen you on legacycentral as well; are you going to pierce neige by any chance? (rally in quebec) Small world:D -
i saw them on ebay last week, not sure if they are still there
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this error code usually occurs with aftermarket cats but can happen with OEM cats as well. there is a simple fix for this; i quoting someone from the toronto subaru club, the wire colours are for a GC8 model impreza, but the basic fix should work. "PO420 is the code that is given for "Catalyst system efficiency below threshold the second O2 was put in place so people would not remove their Catalyst Coverter. To put it in simple terms the O2 sensor senses how much air is passing it if too much air is passing the O2 sensor than there is something different from factury. Like removing your Catalyst or enlarging your exhaust could make your cel come on. I replaced my exhaust and it did not have any problems with the cel light coming on till 6 months. There is a fix for this. You can use a .5 watt resistor 1 meg ohm and 1.1micro ferid capacitor. On the O2 sensor side, because the colours change on the other side of the connector you cut the white wire and connect either side of the wire to the resistor now strip some of the blue wire connect the + side of the capacitor to the blue wire where you have striped the wire now connect the other side of the capacitor to the white or where the resistor is. You can use this resistor capacitor combo for almost any car as long as you know the two signel wires for your O2 sensor. This lies to the ECU and you should not see the PO420 error code again. This error code is not bad but if you do not have a OBD II reader you do not know what the cel is. If any one has had errors PO405 to PO409 this is because you have change your up-pipe to the turbo and might of not installed the EGT sensors or you have installed the EGT sensor and your up-pipe is very big. You can install a 2.2 kilo ohm resistor, disconnect the connector on the EGT sensor which is on the up-pipe and on the wire going back to the ECU connect either side of the connector on either side of the resistor. I do not recomend this that EGT is there to tell the ECU if your engine is running ok. If you have a external EGT gauge and sensor and know how to use it then this is ok. This fixes do not change the performance of the car in any way but the EGT is there fot the safty of your engine life to tell you if everything is ok with the engine. " hope it helps:D
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i'm not sure about rubbing issues with the 225's... however those tires will fit on your wrx rims I wouldn't recommend using 225's in the rear and 205's up front because that will make for some odd handling characterisitcs... also the width isn't the only thing you should take into account, a 225/50/16 tire is taller than a 205/50/16 and this will be bad for you center diff. A 225/45/16 would be very close to a 205/50/16 in terms of height. use this tire size calculator to figure out what sizes will have the same rolling diameter, you also may want to look into getting your fenders rolled if you run into rubbing issues good luck
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my friend has a JDM STI ver8 swap on his GDA wrx, with all that twin scroll technology he's pushing about 350hp... and that's completely stock... 22psi stock:eek: most sti engines after the 96 or so although rated at 280 make close to or over 300 hp... the 280 rating is because of government regulations
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buff that puppy to a mirror finish:D