blitz

Alright hotdog. :-p I seek to elicit "jabs and insults" on a regular basis.

Frag, thanks for that link. Compare the specs for the standard type against the XtraVision (9 bucks more per lamp). Am I hallucinating, or are they identical for wattage, light output and color?

More specifically, is it a "O2 sensor slow", or a "sensor out of range"? Also, what kind of tranny?

XOM offers the 5W-50 in place of the 15W-50 in certain locations, but I couldn't tell you specifically where.

Something's blocking your access (airbox)? Remove it. You're having a difficult time seeing? Get some really bright work-lights on it. Do whatcha gotta do ...quit yer biatchen'. Geez Louise!

Did the threads get messed up or something? That could complicate things but what lining up? Just insert the bolt throught the sensor (like it's a thick washer), then thread the bolt back into the block. Make sure it's clean and tight, because the ground connection is via the bolt.

Andy, thanks for the photos. Hey, substitute the SPDT /center off, with a DPDT /center off, and use the unused throw to "put the FWD fuse in". psst... when you're square over your target, you pick up flak. Jabs and insults are the second most sincere form of flattery. Consider them a reliable measure of success.

I'll have to check those out, but I don't recall ever seeing them on the shelf. Seems like all I ever see around here for replacement headlamps are Sylvania. I'm using XtraVisions currently and they're not a whole lot brighter than stock, but they seem OK. I think that individual cars that have abnormally high system voltage are the ones that tear through the "hot" lamps in a matter of several months or so.

Check the manual for the wire routing and connector locations on the section of harness that runs back there. There's a better chance that that you've got a wire problem than a bad sensor (a rub-through to ground, corroded connector pin, etc.). If it does end up that the sensor is bad, it might work to build a "dummy sensor" using a resistor ... maybe you can fake the 'puter into turning off the light. I think the manual usually gives the acceptable resistance range of the all the sensors. If it's based on the same thermistor that's used in the AIT sensor, the range is around 1k - 10k. 2k-3k for ambient 60-80 temp.

Ranger, the eye is more sensitive to certain wavelengths than others, the irony being that the hotter colors (that seem brighter) can be harsher, more distracting and ultimately more fatiguing to certain (generally older) eyes. A cooler, slightly off-white could be made brighter with less fatigue and glare. Why that isn't done I have no idea. Proper aiming goes a long way, seems like a whole-lotta drivers runnin' around with mis-aimed lights. Also ..that photo. Look close, it's the same photo, just with color adjusted to simulate the difference.

I think you mean www.nasioc.com NASICO is: "Naghsh Afarin Stone Industrial Company" famous Iranian producer of fine architectural stone.

The downside of the Silverstars is their shorter lifespan than a standard color halogen. The filaments are slightly voltage-overdriven to produce a whiter / "hotter" spectrum, but because the wattage remains the same as stock - the actual amount of light (lumens) is no greater. The light blue coating actually robs some of the light output but makes what's left appear even whiter to the eye.

As expected, the requisite government shill wasted no time arriving and espousing his love of tyranny. But pity him, for being a slave, he desires company.

Good question. It's possible that a rudimentary transponder system could be a part of every new vehicle at this point (sort of an OBD I version), but it's unlikely that a full On-Star is being shoe-horned in covertly. I really don't know. Iran stated that they'll begin selling crude oil denominated in Euros towards the end of March, so my guess is a concerted "effort" to get public support & bloodthirst behind WWIII is suddenly top priority. Electronic tracking of citizenery will automatically be "caboosed" onto every bit of draconian legislation that follows the uhh...event(s) (chemical, biological, nuke, dirty-bomb, who knows). I'm frightened.

"Trust federal bureaucrats to take a good idea and transform it into a frightening proposal to track Americans wherever they drive." http://news.com.com/E-tracking,%20coming%20to%20a%20DMV%20near%20you/2010-1071_3-5980979.html

LOL, the thread that won't die. '02 55k miles So far: ---------------- Steering rattle noise when entering driveways. Suspension clunk after making left turn. Numerous dash rattles. Seat rattle. (fixed) Door rattle. (fixed) Rattling heat shields. (rigged) Spark knock. (rigged) Piston slap. Oil leaking from cam cover. Oil leaking front transaxle halfshafts. Oil leaking from A/C compressor. Bubbles and black flakes in coolant overflow tank. Harsh rear clutch engagement. I bought the '00 used with the crap pretty much beat out of it and it seems to be holding up better than the '02. I don't know if '02 was just a bad year or I just got a lemon. This is the only new or newish car that's done ever this to me. Cool, soon I'll be able to "rig" the harsh rear engagement.

I havt'a say that I'm not surprised to learn that, although I've never had a chance to drive another 4EAT-equipped car in the snow for comparison. I'm not abusive to this thing, and don't baby it either - I pretty much drive it like it was intended to be driven, but at this point I'm comfortable saying that this '02 OBS is a piece of crap. It's been a big dissapointment and IS the reason why I own a second car.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=93600#post93600 Alright, I lied ...it was 19 months ago. And it wasn't a question, only a statement.

I'll entertain your post, but I'm not sure I'm following what you're saying. SOA currently lists these auto-trans equipped models as using a center differential: Baja Turbo WRX STi Legacy GT Turbo Outback XT Turbo Outback 3.0 Tribecca (all) The normally aspirated 4 cyls. (and including Forester XT turbo) don't have a center differential, they're FWD with a rear transfer clutch that repeatedly kicks in & out on snow and mud, courtesy of the day-late-and-dollar-short 'puter algorithym. It makes for squirrely snow handling and it wears on the clutch a lot. FWIW, I brought up the question of adding an override switch about 3 years ago.

I wasn't being critical of you Gary. I was just kinda amused that the title of the thread is "Centre diff lock on AWD auto" and the premise of the ongoing disscussion has been tending to follow logically. Just making certain it was clear to all that the basic Sube 4EAT AWD has no center diff to lock or bias. Important why? Well dammit, because a simple clutch IS NOT gonna act like a diff - never will. Make way for the bad guy.

I dunno ..I'm loaded on Vicodon.

That explains the complete lack of subtlety with which the rear clutch engages AFTER the front wheels begin to slip.

RANT MODE: ON Private franchises, aka: Auto "Dealers" are history (they just don't realize it yet). It's mostly a matter of leaping some legally binding contract issues before they are relegated to corporate-owned, "Distribution / Demo / Service Centers" employing salaried workers. Gone will be the days of haggling for price with monkees that are curiously devoid of information regarding the specs or options on the car you've researched and drooled over for months. Thankfully the price of the car will no longer have to include the commission for useless interference, and gone will be the days of the individual franchise owner deciding how important competence is as a pre-requisite for fixin'-cars. Customers will order their dream car online, selecting the desired color and options from a menu, click "finished" for the price, arrange for insurance and financing on the next page. They will be given a lead-time time for the delivery of their vehicle at the nearest local distributor. The buildings will look the same on the outside, but the buying experience will be streamlined and less painful. The service experience will be more consistant (for better or worse).

Gary, this part is promting me to mention something that is (or rather IS NOT) at the core of this thread: the basic 4EAT system in question has no center differential, therefore it can't achieve true torque biasing (either fixed or active) and it certainly can't achieve a rear-wheel bias (i.e. 40/60 or 30/70, etc.). Face it folks: it's nothing but a FWD with a friction clutch that allows the rears to be added-in selectively. In my humble judgement, there's nothing sophistocated about it all despite what the sales literature claims. The literature actually states that the system can anticipate slip. Read that again.

I haven't had that happen yet, but I did bust a section out of my black plastic under-shroud on a nice, fluffy "pile 'o snow" that was concealing a minor iceberg. Doh!