blitz

No, the base oils are better because the newer SM standards require greater resistance to oxidation along with a reduction of catcon-killing adds (ZPPP). In a nutshell: semi-synth used to be a ripoff ...now it's a bargain. Revised PCMO standards have implied backward-compatibility (for use with earlier vehicles).

Jeez, I took the time to do a net search for you. Wasn't that nice of me? Especially since you didn't specify what kind of trans you had or anything. ---------------------------------------------------- Impreza 2.2l L models: Automatic transmission gear ratios: 1st - 2.785 2nd - 1.545 3rd - 1.000 4th - 0.694 reverse - 2.272 final drive ratio - 4.11 Manual transmission gear ratios: 1st - 3.545 2nd - 1.947 3rd - 1.366 4th - 0.972 5th - 0.780 reverse - 3.333 final drive ratio - 3.90 ---------------------- Impreza 2.5RS models: Automatic transmission gear ratios: 1st - 3.027 2nd - 1.619 3rd - 1.000 4th - 0.694 reverse - 2.272 final drive ratio - 4.44 Manual transmission gear ratios: 1st - 3.545 2nd - 2.111 3rd - 1.448 4th - 1.088 5th - 0.780 reverse - 3.333 final drive ratio - 4.11 -------------------- WRX 2.0l models: Automatic transmission gear ratios: 1st - 2.785 2nd - 1.545 3rd - 1.000 4th - 0.694 reverse - 2.272 final drive ratio - 4.11 Manual transmission gear ratios: 1st - 3.454 2nd - 1.947 3rd - 1.366 4th - 0.972 5th - 0.738 reverse - 3.333 final drive ratio - 3.90 --------------------- Impreza WRX STi models: Manual transmission gear ratios: 1st - 3.636 2nd - 2.375 3rd - 1.761 4th - 1.346 5th - 0.971 6th - 0.756 reverse - 3.545 final drive ratio - 3.90

Hondasucks, One detail correction: S = Service C = Commercial http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_MotorOilGuide_2004.pdf

Check the API certifications on the rear. If it doesn't list at least one of the following: SM, SL, SJ, then don't use it. Like friendly_jacek says, diesel: NO - mixed fleet: YES I have in front of me a 4 qt. jug of Pennzoil Long Life. The label states: "Maximum Protection For For Diesel And Gasoline Engines. The API donut lists the following certifications: API Service CI-4, CH-4, CF/SL The "S*.*" indicates the oil is certified for "Service" (4-stroke Passenger car). Bottom line: check the API certifications on the rear. If it doesn't list at least one of the following: SM, SL, SJ, then don't use it.

Just like Carl says, the Forester is an Impreza with a jacked-up ride height, a high center of gravity, and taller profile tires. It's an Impreza that's been given the SUV treatment. Doh!!!

Roger that. My intent was to point out the treatment a virgin vehicle receives gets before it ever gets to dealer prep. Most folks don't know what those 8 miles/13 Km on the odometer really represent. The initial "seat-in" of the rings IS DONE. Over the next 20K miles or so, definitely the friction will continue to decrease and fuel mileage will increase as the long-term wear-in (wear-out ) continues. I actually tried the whole "controlled" break-in on my 2.5, I used dino for a while before switching to synth, but it slaps anyway. The 2.5's just do it ...no worries. It's the short piston with ring-pack & wrist-pin pushed up high. The moly coat masks the noise, but as it wears away the noise emerges.

I gotta agree with Setright. Growing up in Detroit, I've been on tours of the auto plants. When that brand-new car comes off the end of the line, the porter jumps in, starts it up, slams it into gear, and promptly plants the throttle to the floor to park it out in that HUGE lot. I distinctly remember a tour of the Ford plant in right around '74 and the sound of the screeching rubber of brand-new T-birds making a three point turn, drive - reverse - drive, then out the door at full throttle. An import car gets subjected to a standing start rally run, first onto - then back off of a ferry. Pretty amazing actually. At the time I recall thinking that the workers I saw appeared to be on Meth. They reminded of that "juice guy" on infomercials at 3AM.

I'll tell you how; too few people make a big enough stink about getting burned. There's a growing reluctance to hold professionals to a high standard. I say "out the shysters" ...ultimately it's your own rump roast your protecting.

Kevin, good post. I installed a rear bar on my Impreza a couple years back. I greased up the bushings really nice, but after installing them, all the grease squished out of the sides and within two weeks, the bushings were grabbing, squeaking, groaning and rusting. I swapped them out for some Energy Suspension units that have zirk-fittings in the clamp, and have grease-channels in the bushing. I grease them weekly with marine grease (rainy-weather driving does a number on the lube). Another thing I've heard about (but haven't tried) is teflon pipe tape betwen the bushing and bar. Sounds like it would work, but I'm not sure how long that would last. I still have yet to put the larger bar on my other Impreza, but I've decided that this time around I'm gonna stick with rubber bushings and endlinks. Two reasons: No maintenance hassles and increased initial articulation/compliance between left and right which helps winter traction and makes the car a little more "idiot-proof" at the exit of an over cooked turn (or emergency manuever). It's the unloading of the chassis that gets you into trouble and spins the car. Rubber bushing in the rear will bring the vehicle back to a zero slip-angle a little more gracefully. It's something to consider anyway. I like the stiffer endlinks on the front because they tighten up that rocking motion when making left/right transitions.

At your next oil change, try a good quality dino oil in the 12-13 cst. (high 30/low 40) range and see if that has a positive effect on your consumption. I've read numerous complaints about specific individual sube motors having consumption problems when using Mobil 1 5W-30 & 10W-30 that went away after switching to a middle-weight dino oil. Having said that, most folks seem to be able to use Mobil 1 in their Sube without any consumption problems. My observation is that Sube motors in general do better on lubes with a little more viscosity than the current trend of water-weight (8-9 cst.) oils.

Start it up and pay attention to how eagerly it cranks/fires, listen for engine noises after startup (especially hollow knocking noises), run to the rear - examine/sniff the exhaust, look underneath for coolant and oil leaks, smell for leaking gasoline odors, look at the engine while it's idling to see if it's smooth. Check for long delay of shift if auto trans, check for difficulty of gear engagement/grinding if manual trans, make sure the clutch isn't slipping if manual trans. Car should not pull to one side or other when driving on level road and steering wheel should not "warble". Bounce each four corners of the vehicle with your knee several times check the struts, etc. Turn the steering back and forth to check for play. When driving, listen for whining, grinding, or clunking noises and check that the brakes when applied - aren't pulsating or pulling to one side. Check that the blower motor is operating on all speeds, check the operation of the temperature control for heat, check the A/C, wipers, turn signals. In short: check everything. The car is going to have wear on it, but calling-out defects as you perform these checks gives you some hand to offer less, then pull cash from your wallet. Don't fall in love with the car ...be prepared to walk. The seller can pick up on desperation. The idea is to look like you know what your doing. Ulimately, plan on having to do repairs to the vehicle ...your not going to buy a $1500 car that's flawless. The specifics depend on the year and country but as far as I know the Sport has the two-tone paint scheme, hood scoop, a little more ground clearance, and in some cases larger wheels and engine and/or spoilers and other options as a part of the sport package.

I've never measured it, so I don't really know, but here's some book data: My '02 2.5 manual lists normal discharge temp as 185*F. It lists beginning-to-open thermo temp as 173*F, and full-open temp as 196*F for both turbo & non-turbo. It indicates primary fan on-temp as 203*F for the non-turbo and 205*F for the turbo. That should at least give you some indication of the range where Subaru is trying to keep the coolant temp. A turbo motor of a given displacement will generate more thermal energy than an identical displacement N/A motor since it's burning more fuel and air, so the radiator ideally should be of a larger capacity.

The factory thermo is labeled: 78*C, which is 172*F. Most folks that run a performance setup use the Zerosports 71*C / 160*F aftermarket unit. The Zerosports is a real Fuji (FHI) part which is an important distinction. DON'T use anything except a Fuji part. Subaru cooling systems place the thermo at the water inlet as opposed to the outlet like most other arrangements. I'm not sure why, so I'll just assume it's a better way to do it. Maybe someone else can chime in as to why ...I'm curious.

The book specs 130 ft/lbs. for the phase II 2.5. I tightened the bolt on my '00 phase II 2.2. to that exact 130 ft./lbs. spec with no ill effects thusfar. The crank bolt is the same as my 2.5. I'm not sure about the earlier 2.2 tho. Subjectively, 130 didn't seem "feel" overly tight ...it's a large, long bolt. (The subjective thing is important to me as it's kept me from breaking and stripping fasteners for many years of working - sans torque wrench).

Scott, do you mean like sticky threads for individual engines and stuff? I don't think so, but the search function works pretty good if you feed it the right keywords and spend some patient time with it.

I kinda like to think of myself as the professor from Gilligan's Island.

Cookie, that reminds me to express my gratitude to those who created and maintain this forum, as well as all the contributing members here. This is one of the most informative & better-tempermented forums on the net. I had important questions come up in the middle of the big, front-end service I did on my motor several months back, but the all knowledgable folks here walked me right through it. See, I'm not really as curmudgeonly as I might seem. :-\

After reading numerous stories about folks changing out their timing belt at 100k miles, only to ultimately lose the engine at 130k due to a failed idler/ tensioner bearing, I made it a point to replace all the idlers on mine. Ironically, the biggest obstacle I encountered was the personel at the dealership from where I purchased the parts, chiding me for doing it. There are only two possibilities here: 1. They are ignorant of the facts. 2. Allowing me to blow my motor by feeding me disinformation would give them an opportunity to make a profit on me because I'm ignorant of facts. It doesn't matter which answer is correct. The bottom line is that THE AUTHORIZED DEALER for the product is incapable of providing correct, factual information about something basic. If anything will get me pissed-off, that's about at the top of the list. While I'm in the rant mode, I'll add: Any certified mechanic that adds STOP LEAK to a car as the procedure to repair a head gasket, should have his/her certification revoked. The certification process was instituted to put an end to shadetree practice. Further any dealer that doesn't actively oppose (band together with ALL OTHER DEALERS) the practice should probably think about selling the business to someone that cares about customer service, honhesty and integrity. Why should I shed a tear for the poor dealer when it's ME that's getting screwed? Rant: OFF.

I forgot to mention that the book allows a tolerance of +/- 10% on that .5 volt adjustment figure. e.g. .45 - .55 VDC. It's not difficult to get it nailed right at .5 tho.

Adjusting it is snap. 1. With the ignition on (engine not running), loosen the adjustment lock screws and rotate the body of the TPS so that the output is .5 VDC (one half volt). The output voltage is read off of the center terminal. 2. Tighten down the lock screws and your done. As a final check, slowly rotate the throttle body open by hand and watch the output voltage smoothly climb to a maximum of approx. 4.5 VDC at full throttle.

The signal from throttle position sensor (TPS) controls shift kickdowns and upshift points. You might wanna check that first.

I had to use third to maintain speed on those passes in my '02 OBS. Are you saying that your foot was to the floor and the tranny remained in 4th? The lockup clutch remained engaged also?

I recall reading accounts of folks having had to do gaskets more than once. Conversely I've read even more accounts of folks who have never had to deal with head gaskets in 200k miles. Based on hard statistics, I don't know what the likelyhood of failure would be, but it would be an interesting bit to know.

The same thought crossed my mind, but since the dyno runs are WOT (open-loop), the 'puter won't be actively changing the amount of fuel based on a "misfire" event the same way it would if a misfire were to occur at part throttle. I don't know how A/F is calculated during WJM's dyno runs, but a tailpipe reading would definately show all sorts of anomalies regarding changes in HC, O2, and NOX. The EGT at the ex port would change quite drastically, etc. The more parameters that are recorded during a run, the greater amount of data available to use in identifying the problem.

I wanna add that I DO understand that the factory timing maps have ignition retarded somewhat (5-10 deg.?) from the optimum setting to reduce peak flame temp and the attendant NOX emmisions. But looking at the torque graph on the "normal " run ...especially the area below 4k... WJM, that motor's producing such fat torque in the lower revs that I'm inclined to think that the timing is bumped ahead of factory settings. No? What I'm saying is that aside from the abnormal dip, it looks like it's running exceptionally strong.