blitz

Well, actually you made it clear that it BEHAVES this way from day one rather than it HAS BEHAVED this way from day one. So with all due respect, if you'd like folks to not mis-read your post, please use correct syntax. :-\ Check the resistance curve of the IAT sensor. It tells the 'puter to both lean the fuel (WOT) and pull back the timing as air temp rises. I meaured mine once: ------------------------------------- In the freezer (approx. 26*F), it measured 8k ohms. At 70*F ambient, it measured around 2k ohms. At approx. 140*F it measured about 1k ohms. You can substitute the sensor with a cockpit-adjustable resistance and dial the timing where you want it. I've had a 6-position selectable one on my car for the last 30k miles. I throw 93 octane in the tank and crank the timing all the way up. It really fattens up the midrange torque. If I'm in a situation where I'm forced to use a lesser octane, I dial it back.

IMO, the first thing to try would be some Techron or Regane for an extended period to clear the injectors, intake valves and intake ports of deposits. It'll take a while if there's a heavy buildup. Use it regularly thereafter to keep buildup from recurring. Second thing would be to clean the combustion chamber of deposits. I use the water-blast method every summer. Some folks don't agree with using water, but I've never encountered any problems with it. If the knock persists, bite the bullet and step up to a higher octane.

Humble thanks. My one overwhelming characteristic is a sponge-like affinity for knowing stuff, laid-out in a practical way. I hate verbose, confusing, technical descriptions. My other overwhelming characteristics are an affinity for beer and cynicism.

Yeah the fact that the ECU doesn't monitor that parameter would explain why it didn't or couldn't throw a code for it. You'll need to tap in a fuel pressure meter. The point where the fuel line exits the filter is a good spot. The regulator allows system pressure to build by restricting return flow back to the tank. Conversely, the more it opens, the more return flow it allows and the more fuel pressure drops. It's pretty simple. It doesn't actually adjust the pressure on the fly, but rather holds it at a fixed value RELATIVE TO MANIFOLD VACCUM (not atmospheric). It tracks the conditions inside the intake manifold, that's why it's referenced to the intake manifold by a vaccum line. In other words, if the spec fuel pressure is 40 psi., then the regulator maintains the fuel pressure at 40 psi above intake manifold value. First you might just want to check the vaccum line to the regulator to make sure it's actually connected at both ends and intact (not cracked anywhere). Also with the engine off you can apply suction (with your mouth) to the regulator to check it's diaphram for integrity. You shouldn't be able to draw air by sucking. If you can, then it's punctured or cracked and needs to be replaced.

Check your fuel pressure. If your regulator's malfunctioning or it's vaccum line is dissconnected it'll give a high fuel-pressure rich condition when the engine's running on the fixed map. The closed-loop operation can compensate up to a point although if the pressure gets too high the injectors cease to function properly.

Always keep in mind that any particular code, (e.g. knock sensor) always implies (although it does not specifically state) the inclusion of ALL wiring & connectors associated with that sensor. Faulty knock sensor means that the sensor could be fine but the local harness connector to the knock sensor or the remote harness connector to the ECU may be faulty and /or corroded, or that the harness itself may have a pinch, break, or short at some point.

Thanks jamal & ferret. I'll just park it till warmer weather gets here. I was planning on doing the whole "front-engine" service this summer anyway. One last question: Pull the fans and radiator to open up some elbow room for working in that area? Just the fans? What?

81k miles with no "front-of-engine" service to date (original water pump, t-belt, seals, etc). I know the unmistakable sound of a water pump on it's way out, but I'm used to hearing it while standing at the front of the vehicle (at least with V8's of past). Anyway, I'm hearing THAT water pump sound while I'm inside my '00 OBS, but not while standing out in front of the car. The noise isn't affected at all by the clutch pedal position, so that eliminates the tranny or throwout bearing as the culprit. Question: Can any seasoned Sube owners or mechanics verify that a near-dead water pump would be audible inside the vehicle?

Cold piston slap is nothing serious, but a rod noise is another matter altogether. There's no way a rod can knock without premature failure in it's future. IMO, it would be a good idea to plumb-in a temporary oil pressure gauge and drive around with it for couple days. If the pressure doesn't meet spec, then have your dealer document it, and that's your ace-in-the-hole for getting the problem dealt with under warranty. If the pressure looks good and stepping up to a 40 weight oil (0W-40 or 5W-40 for winter) cures the noise, you might have no worries.

This really sounds like a rod bearing. A slightly deeper-sounding hollow knock at 1500-2000 rpm, under load (brake-torque), would be indicative of a main bearing. Stepping up a grade of oil thickness might prevent damage in the event you need to keep the car and can't get satisfaction from Subaru. Curious, what kind of oil do you use now? I previously could hear a rod noise with Mobil 1 10W-30. I switched to a slightly thicker oil and it's gone.

My '00 2.2 with 81k miles is quiet as a mouse. My 2.5 on the other hand...

Along with the shortened skirts, the ring-pack & wrist-pin position have been moved higher. In short, the entire piston geometry has been changed. In deferrence to the official reasoning given by the manufacturers as to the reason for the moly coating, I've deduced that it's sole purpose is to deaden the slapping noise, inherent in the "(not so) smart" piston geometry. The slapping noise emerges in direct proportion to the amount of coating that wears away. e.g. the noise becomes apparent at about 20 - 25k miles, and is in full bloom around 50 - 70k miles.

It's normal for the level to increase some, but not by quite that much. What's the history on the vehicle? Did it just begin doing this?

4.55 & 3.79 respectively. I keep this "mega-converter" bookmarked: http://www.megaconverter.com/mega2/ In some bizzarre coincidence 15.9 US = 13.2 Imperial, which explains the confusion: 50 liters = 13.2 US Gal. = 11 Imperial Gal. 60 liters = 15.9 US Gal. = 13.2 Imperial Gal.

Y'know, I looked before and didn't see it, but I just checked again and it actually is listed as being the larger 60 liter /15.9 (US gal.) /13.2 (Imperial gal.) tank ...Duh. I think my fill-test method was flawed on account of the pump nozzle shutting off early.

Yeah, that anti-sqeal goop makes a mess. Permatex brand stopped my squeal for two whole weeks, but took a couple hours to clean off with solvent and a scraper the next time I opened the brakes up for service. How did you like the ceramics?

reddevil, that looks really nice. Is that an Eaton SC? Also, did you have to upgrade the cooling system? It looks like the A/C is gone, which probably frees up a lot of airflow through the radiator all by itself.

Alrighty then, it takes 11.6 gallons to fill my tank back up after the low fuel light comes on. Is my fuel capacity 13.2 gallons or 15.9? (I'm guessing 13.2)

That's great sussman. Did you pull the fans and/or the radiator to give more space to work in?

Adding to the advice already given: 1. Inspect the hoses for visible cracks and replace them if necessary. 2. Use a flat file and emery cloth to remove rust from the back of the pistons, calipers, pins and slides. 3. Replace the shim-set that goes underneath the pads. 4. Apply a light coat of brake grease on the pins, slides, bottom of the piston and the shims. This'll lessen the likelyhood of squeal / wear as a result of binding and it'll retard future rust. (I think some folks use high-temp anti-seize instead of brake grease.) 5. Don't use cheap pads. 6. Don't use cheap pads.

A few supercharged Impreza photos: ...awww the heck with it. (I'm good with audio files, but I can't reduce the file size enough to get the photos to post).

This is just my observation, so the flame suit is on, but: as long-wearing as Sube motors are, the basic open-deck, non oil-squirter, normally-aspirated engines have a tendency to suffer inordinately in the face of aftermarket forced-induction. I know there are exceptions. The people that have done it successfully have stuck with small turbos, have all been REALLY anal about engine management parameters, and have resisted the temptation to get greedy with the boost. Maybe it's the just the ghost of rimmer or something, but successful aftermarket supercharger installs are especially rare. Unless you're willing to drop in some low-compression forged pistons at the very least, your severely handicapping your effort at success.

Thanks everyone. I wanna watch the ECU gears grinding in real time but I have no laptop or palm, so I'll probably try snagging one of the 9145's off Amazon, $185 delivered sounds pretty righteous. MSRP is like $299 or something.

It looks like a prescription for Tylenol w/ codeine. Seriously though, the only way you'll arrive at an engine that's delivering solid volumetric efficiency in the rev range you're seeking would be to do a fair amount of hand crafting and custom tweaking. Reducing the internal diameter of the intake manifold runners will increase the charge velocity and serve to put a good ram effect into the lower rev range. On the experimental aircraft disscussion groups, there's a lot of fertil ideas about getting EA-series engines to build better low rpm torque for use in direct prop-driven lightweight catagories. On that same line of thinking, you might try something really kooky and shoehorn a Lycomming into your creation. Those beasts put out 250 -300 ft. lbs. at something like 2000 rpm, I'll try to dig up some exact specs. They're air-cooled which might require a fan & shroud arrangment. Then add a big-rump roast oil cooler to pull out more BTU's and bingo!

Yeah, it should change states when power is applied. What's confusing me is that I was under the impression that it' a N.C. device, but your saying that it's open both ways. You're gonna have to replace the clutch pack as well. I wonder if it's worn out as a result of the solenoid failing (clutch binding)? That would fit. I guess I gotta break down and buy the overpriced 4EAT manual so I know what I'm talking about, I'm gonna need it eventually anyway.