blitz

This car is extremely consistant in regards to power and feel, so it's easy to detect changes, plus my daily work involves making subjective judgements (in audio nontheless), so I have a mindset tuned to zeroing out personal biases in situations that require it (I think that's why I tend to go overboard with personal opinion "off duty"). :-\ I had run several errands early in the morning, needed to do an oil change (in 21*F), jumped back in to do finish a few more errands and noticed the power, just like that. I wasn't looking for it. Wasn't expecting it. Never experienced it before. That link seems to match what I felt. I didn't even have the opportunity to rev the motor out (traffic). The torque increase I felt was just in the midrange 3-4000 RPM. I 'spose there's more on top. A friend of mine who assembles lease engines at Maclaren did tell me about a year ago that they fill the motors with Mobil 1 0W-40 for dyno test and before they shop 'em out. So the puzzle comes together.

Well, this isn't my first time using Mobil 1, just the first time trying the 0W-40 grade. I've tried Mobil1 10W-30 in the summer and Mobil 1 5W-30 in the winter in this same car. It's good oil, but always seemed to have a harsh, "rattly" quality to it. Now both those oils have lower kinematic vicosities at warmup (40*C) and operating temperature (100*C) than the 0W-40 does, and both also have a lower HTHS viscosity than the 0W-40. Apparently there's some other significant dynamic condition to motor oil performance that affects drag other than these standardized comparators. Also 2 of the qts. that I used didn't even have the "Energy Conserving" on the back 'cause they're several years old (the current stock has it). I excitedly bought several quarts of this stuff when it first came out, but was a little reluctant to use it, so it's been sitting around.

I second the speedbleeders. Don't leave 'em exposed to the elements though. Make caps from a short piece of silicone tubing with a screw in the end. Rubber caps (like vaccum fitting caps) won't last 'cause the brake fluid eats the rubber.

I had something happen today that I've heard others talk about from time to time but I'd always just chalked it up to placebo effect: I changed my oil and felt more power afterwards. The oil was (3 qts.) Mobil 1 0W-40 + (1 qt.) Mobil 1 0W-30R. OK, I know what your thinking, but I've owned dozens of cars and have done several dozen oil changes on each of 'em. In the process I've tried just about all the common oils (Pennzoil, Castrol, Quaker State, of various weights, some synthetic & some conventional, Delvac 1300S, and just about every Mobil 1 product, but I've never really "felt" any difference between any of 'em other than the thick oils tended to make the worn engines quieter and keep the oil pressure up at lower revs. This was apparent. I'm guessing 3 ft. lbs of torque. The reason for the (1 qt.) of 0W-30R (race) was to cut the viscosity a little and beef up the add-pack. The R oil has a stout anti-wear add-pack.

Cookie, here is the ticket for the rear diff: Redline Superlight Shockproof. http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?subcatID=20&prodID=61

You're lucky. I'm referring to the huge wheel imbalance you get from snow / ice all packed in the wheels. Problem is that you don't discover the condition until you've gotten on the highway to get somewhere, and you're already 5 minutes behind schedule. When it's bad, you generally can't go much over 45-50 mph without it feeling like the wheels are gonna hop right off the chassis.

Those of you that live in snowy climates can identify with this: Feel free to contribute more. 1. Despite the proliferation of AWD vehicles over the last few years, a Subie is still the coolest vehicle to be in. 2. Dusting Camaros is a blast. 3. SUV drivers really ARE idiots. Waaay too reckless / inattentive. 4. I remove swirls from my Sube's finish by dragging a coarse snow brush across it's surface several dozen times each winter. By summer, all the swirls are gone ...replaced by a nice formation of straight scratches. 5. gEtTiNG oN tHe hIgHwAy aFtEr pAckInG ThE aLlOyS fUlL oF pOwDeR, dOeSn'T WoRk VerRry WelL.

cannonball, I feel for you. High quality indie shops will specify "Experienced only W/ tools", when seeking mechanics. Care to guess where most fledgling mechanics get that experience, or worse yet, "wash-out"? That's not to say that you can't get a satisfactory service experience from a dealer, or that you can't get screwed by by an indie, but I think that there are issues regarding thoroughness and touch, that are lost on "green wrenches". A good mechanic will take your vehicle for a short drive before doing any work to familiarize himself with your vehicle's sounds and smells. Likewise that same good mechanic will NEVER give the car back to with added noises and smells. These are things that customers and good mechanics are aware of. I hate to say it, but often the dealer service experience can be the equivalent of fast food. It's this fear that drives me to buy the overpriced service manuals and study them with nerd-like religiousness (I'm a nerd anyway, but I digress), to buy a high-quality hydraulic jack, ramps, etc. It's also this fear that keeps me here soaking up every bit of technical data. The only time I surrender the job to someone else is if it involves a hoist, cutting torches, impact chisel, etc.

You sure you don't mean Hearsay?! LOL

It's deja-vu all over again. A post of mine 13 months ago: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=69951#post69951

Yes, verify the wiring integrity. 9 out of 10 diagnostic proceedures for each malfunction code involve essentially checking for proper continuity and/or improper short conditions of the associated wiring. The wiring and connectors on todays cars are woefully inadequadete. They degrade as a result of heat, chemical (salt, oil), and vibration.

Apologies. s'ko, which bar did you use?

I have absolutely zero data to either support or refute the test results, therefore I remain open-minded. Several years back, there was a similar test done by a private individual (albeit, much lower budget), that similarly showed foam and gauze allowing more dirt in. For some odd reason, it doesn't make me violently angry to come to terms with that. In my mind, it makes perfect sense that any filter that shows large visible holes in it's media when held up to a light source, is gonna let more stuff through (it'll flow better). Other than by some electrostatic process, I can't think of any other way to achieve lower restriction while maintaining the same level of filtration other than by increasing the square area of the media.

I'm a bit amused, those test results really hit a nerve with you Mr. Setright. What brand filter have you got installed in your vehicle currently?

One thought: If you haven't tried snugging up the valve cores, that might be the next thing to try. Sometimes they're not completely tight and they'll give you a slow leak.

The data is presented as cold, hard numbers at the bottom of the page with no "axis shifts" to distract you. Anyone that claims to NOT have an agenda is lying. Here's a quote from the person who put the test together: "I will see someone question my motives and bias but they will not direct their attacks directly at me. Most seem to be the guy who has had K&N since 1968 and "no problems". As I stated before, "the PROBLEM is you spent a lot of ching on a filter that not only DID NOT increase your horsepower, it also let in a lot of dirt while doing it!" "I wish someone would file a lawsuit against K&N for their marketing lies. I see it as NO DIFFERENT from the marketing lies by Slick 50 and others. Slick 50 was sued and lost. Unbelievably the crap is still on the shelves!" "Ironically, my original "whistle blowing" was a challenge to the FOAM FILTER manufacturers. The claims seemed too good to be true. Some at dieselplace.com were getting dirt in the intake tube using a UNI foam filter. The so-called experts on the forums were selling these things like hotcakes because they were respected individuals and people believed what they were being told. However, when they and the manufacturers were asked to produce the data to back up a claim like "no filter in the world filters dirt better than oiled foam" they refused to show it! Why would you keep data that proves your filter is the best in the world a secret? Maybe because it is a LIE! OOOps, used the "L" word!" "Anyway, my ultimate motive was that I hate seeing hard working stiffs like us get suckered out of our money. We are told it is the "best protection for our vehicles". We hand over our money to thieves and liars, throw away our perfectly good paper filter in the trash, and then proceed to trash our engines. I know, engines run for a long time with K&N. However, I doubt the increase of silica in the engines diet is responsible." Here's the entire thread on BITOG: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=000308

Have a good look at this before deciding on a K&N: http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm IMO, you won't beat an OEM Subaru air filter. As far as which accessories fit and which don't, always e-mail that question to the vendor that you wish to purchase from, then save the response. Do a search on "subaru snorkelectomy" to get some ideas on how to straighten the intake path and make some noise. That was popular for a while.

Swapping out the stock plumbing for a shorty ram will cost you torque below 3500 RPM, and won't add any appreciable flow up top unless you combine it with some cam, headwork, & exhaust flow mods. Also the shorty will draw in hot engine bay air. It WILL give you a loud WOT intake honk tho. An effective trick is to take air in from the fender well while keeping the stock intake (silencers and all). Just remove the scoop that draws air from behind the headlight, and use a regular worm-screw clamp to attach a short piece (5" length) of aluminum dryer vent that curves right out to hole in the fender well. I've done it on both my Imprezas. Simple, elegant. Cost: $2 for each car. Line the rim of the fender hole with a piece of silicone tubing to eliminate your intake from rattling in the hole.

Yeah metallic linings will make a sound like a metal brush first thing in the morning at that first stop sign at the corner of your street, then it goes away after a few moderate stops. Like Sevensisters suggested, do a tire rotation to see if the noise moves around. Bearing noise won't develop suddenly unless you slide into a curb like someone I know. :-p

I've tried everything possible to remove air from my cooling system, blipping the throttle with the front of car up on ramps while using one of those Lisle "Spill-Free Radiator Funnel Kits" and burping the top hose till no more air comes out. I still get the bubbles tho. What worries me is the black scum/flakes (carbon?). Not seeing any oil, but I'm concerned that it might be a gasket. I get the bubbles on my other roo, but no carbon.

I buy all my parts from Hodges. Their parts guy John is tops, absolutely the best. He once went as far as to break apart a brake-service pack just to give me the pad-shims I needed. That's one of those seemingly insignificant little detail things that creates a customer for life. Hell, even their sales staff is better than most. The note was retarded. Quite insulting frankly. Guaranteed that a computer gets called out on the carpet over it. Next paragraph... "Maintaining your vehicle according to the manufacturer's recommendations is the best way to make it perform better, last longer and maintain a higher resale value". Oh great. Now the note effectively implores me... begs me to believe that I got jacked on what I paid for the car. I just paid resale for it. Alright, point made. One part gripe, one part guffaw. Thanks for the invite, might be a tough one tho. I don't close my bus. till 8:00pm, then it's about a 45 minute drive from St. Clair Shores. I may surprize you tho.

Are you hearing the noise when the brakes are applied or when cruising (no brakes)?

See? You're seeing the humor. The sophistocation of computors (sic), the automated "cha-ching" note, they got busted acting like they really care. As far as the customer loyalty thing goes, it's a timing issue. It's like wooing a girl and farting on the first date. OK, it was an accident, and funny in a tragic way. But you AIN'T gettin' laid. Lastly it's a detail thing. It took me too many years to learn one really important lesson: ALL success lies in the details. I own and operate my own service-based business, so my views on customer-relation building are first-hand. Unforunately I can't escape the mindset.

Alright, if a customer buys a used car off your lot with 78,957 miles on the odo, you don't send them a card 2-weeks later that says: "YOUR CAR SAYS 78,957" "IT'S TIME!". Dear Daniel, "Nobody knows your vehicle like HODGES Subaru. Our records indicate that your vehicle is due for service". "Please call our service department to schedule your next appointment". Classless jackasses. Holy cow. :-\

Actually I'm just coming up on 50,000. I plan on taking it in for a HC sniff test next summer during the hottest months. That way it'll be easy to get the bubbles to appear in the o'flow tank. I'm gonna tell 'em to hold off on the hand-wash till I assess the deal.