blitz

BTW, that's not the "pilot bearing" I was referring to in the previous post. I was thinking of something completely different there. **** I*****!

Here we go: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/ShifterRattleInfoF99.pdf Vehicles affected: '96-'97 OB & '98 Forester **** *S****!

Isn't there a pilot bearing known to go bad on input side of the 5-manual trans? **** **R***!

I'm almost at 40k miles on my RE-950's and I'm still saying good things about them. As stated; great all-around summer tire, wet or dry, but also as stated ...not brilliant in snow. I do use a separate winter tire. I'd kinda like to try out those Goodyear F-1's after I finish-off the 950's. **** ***A**!

Well, let's take a look: (per '02 Impreza manual) "Engine oil viscosity affects fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity provide better fuel economy. HOWEVER, IN HOT WEATHER, OIL OF HIGHER VISCOSITY IS REQUIRED TO PROPERLY LUBRICATE THE ENGINE" My manual has a little temperature graph indicating that 5W-30 is OK up to 100*F. The chart also has a second arrow indicating that above 0*F 10W-30 & 10W-40 are applicable. Then it reads: "If the vehicle is used in desert areas, in areas with very high temperatures, or used for heavy-duty applications such as towing a trailer, use of oil with the following grade and viscosities is recommended: SAE 30, 40, 10W-50, 20W-40, 20W-50" It wasn't that long ago when all owners manuals correlated viscosity with vehicle useage and ambient temperature, but the trend is toward manuals with a dumbed-down one-size-fits-all viscosity recommendation. It's to Subaru's credit that they still put the information in the manual for people that are willing to read it.

Bridgestone RE-950 worked good for me...a little noisey tho. **** ****E*!

The only problem with scheme is the fact that the filters would need to be serviced yearly. Might be be more maintanence intensive than just cleaning the T/Body. **** *****L!

That's actually true. I 'spose if it weren't for the fact that I'm also a geek with almost zero social skills I'd probably take-off and fly straight up my awn rump roast. :-\

One trick I've seen done (never tried it) to minimize the problem is to splice a fuel filter into each PCV line. You'll need three: one between each valve cover and the air box, and one more between the PCV valve and the air box. Those small, see-through glass-bodied ones (for hot-rod roadsters) that use a fine nylon mesh would be good. This'll keep the crankcase oil-mist and blowby gasses from backing up into into the airbox and then getting sucked past the throttle-blade every time you go full throttle. **** ******!

10W-40 fell out of favor 25 years ago and still suffers from a hangover to this day ...most of it undeserved. 1. The group I (sovent-refined) base-stocks suffered from wax crystalization thickening at cold temperatures. This no longer a problem with group II and higher basestocks that comprise the bulk of current formulations. 2. The breakdown of inferior VII polymers caused sludge formation ...once again no longer a problem owing to new generation VII adds (and less VII adds, because of the higher starting VI of modern basestocks). The only thing that plagues most current run-of-the-mill 10W-40's is the weak add-packs. The curret lack of demand for this grade deters most producers from formulating expensive (robust) add-packs for it. It's not fair to make a blanket statement about 10W-40. There are premium synthetic 10W-40 products on the shelf that kick rump roast. **** ******!

The throttle body on every EFI car I've owned has done that ... so I clean it every summer. It tends to get more gunked up if you spend time at full throttle (mountains, etc.). **** ******!

That was originally put forth by a pilot who made observations of the cooling system on his Sube-air conversion while making full-power takeoff runs. It sounds entirely plausible to me but it wasn't universally embraced by everyone on this board. **** ******!

The most likely stuff: Various interior and dash rattles, rattling exhaust heat-shields, torque-bind (4EAT), clutch judder (5-manual), external head-gasket leak on drivers side, air pockets in cooling system, oil leaks from the front cam seals and crank seal, chipped and cracked windshield, defective radiator cap. Hopefully no more than one at a time. **** ******!

I think some tires are definitely geared for low rolling resistance, while others are geared toward better driving. When I swapped the OEM RE-92 for RE-950, my mileage went down a bit, but the cornering G's went up a lot. As far as the loosening up thing, it does seem like some of my fuel economy returned now that I got about 40k miles on 'em. **** ******!

The pistons in my 2.5 completely rock! It's the OB-GYN that you want to steer clear of. **** ******!

No assumptions are good assumptions. Pull the wheel and take a quick look for yourself with a flashlight at how much pad material is left. Seriously, how else could you possibly know? To me, checking the front linings periodically to keep a mental note of their progress is about the same as checking the oil and tire pressure periodically.

'00 with 89K .. feels like it's almost broken-in.

Cobb's Street Performer cams: http://cobbtuning.com/impreza/enginehead1.html#streetcam **** ******!

This "copper" everyone speaks of is the construction of the core and has nothing to do with electrical conductivity, but does has everything to do with broadening the heat range. All modern plugs use a copper core ...even the ones with iridium and platinum - TIPPED electrodes. **** ******!

You paid $110. (edit: 110 buxx) **** ******!

Is your car lifted a bit at the front? About an inch above stock? **** ******!

My '00 lights-up with one revolution, but my '02 seems programmed to take about 6 revolutions before it fires. I just assumed it was an oil-priming sequence because it's very consistant and doesn't change with temperature or the time interval since it was last started. **** ******!

Four basic possibilities: 1. Defective sender. 2. Defective meter. 3. Blown fuse. 4. Bad connection. You might want to spring for a factory manual.

What makes the problem worse is that big gumby bushing. The movement is so squirrely that many times it's impossible to find the middle shift gates 3 &4. **** ******!

My first guess would be you're losing spark to one of the cylinders under load. Bad plug, plug wire, or coil. **** ******!