testy

Same size tires all the way around. The binding is getting worse, but the 4x4 still works.

Ive been beating the ************ outa my 94 Loyale lately, rally (throttle lift oversteer baby), 4x4 (cus it can), and jumps (cause its fun). Anyway, pretty much all things that will destroy and decent car.... And as expected things are starting to go wrong. 1st - My car smells like maple syrup and is leaking coolant from around the firewall. Ive been told it is the heater core, but the coolant seems to flow from the engine side of the firewall and not on the dash side. 2nd - Shifting into 4wd (push button, 5mt) and engine braking makes a loud and very deep rumble. Then when I shift outa 4wd a very loud clunk and a quick but violent jerk through the car. Im most worried about the heater core and the coolant leak because this is the car I drive to work everyday. And I dont need 2wd for that. On a plus side, I just found the jackpot for PUG wheels in Vancouver, CA and the lugnuts to go with em. PM me for information on that. Thanks.

Is there any other way to do a 5 lug swap? There is almost no hope in hell of me finding a damn XT6 up here. Does the XT have 5 lug wheels? Is there a way of bolting in legacy parts instead?

pick a part in Chilliwack is the god of all junkyards. And they are Loyales in Canada too.

unfortunaly my wagon is all bark and no bite, unless its on gravel

haha, might be stupid, but are you sure your battery has a charge?

I want a good tire size to fit a 14 or 15 inch pug (whatever I cant get hold off) for gravel/tarmac driving(rally). No offroading or mudding for me.

I know there was a be-end-all thread for pugs, but Ive lost track of it. What size tire would I need to run to use a 15" pug on my Loyale(no lift), and what size for 14". I know they should be from a 505 not a 504. And I also know there is a difference in lugs, which lug should I choose? Thanks.

Im newb here. So If you weld your rear diff on say a loyale with pushbutton 4wd, and you currently in front wheel drive mode, your rear tires will still spin at the same rate but they wont be powered?

they all sound good at 6000 rpm

yeah, just had to leave us hanging with the Quattro-San. What did they do to it?

The older subies are the ************. I sold mine and now Im getting another. There is just something about the "man i shouldnt have done that" thought and still having your car run as normal that makes you smile. Like driving through a giant field covered in head sized rocks and boulders at 40mph, shifting a 6-7 grand, and driving into the bushes.

These cars a tin cans, crash it and its toast. But... Its like a giant crumple zone around you.... takes alot of the impact. Just dont get impaled.

Ok, sounds awsome. So If I were going to go and do the AWD thing, it would make my life easier to just pick up a ea82T car to put it in?

Thanks boys.

is this also true with the ea82?

so with an adapter plate an ej22 motor WILL bolt to a ea82 trans?

Ive done a search, but 5 pages in picking up random stuff I gave up. And I know you guys have the answer straight up. If I were to swap an ej22 from an early 90s legacy would It bolt up to a 5sp EA82 tranny with p/t4wd (but set up as rwd). And if I wanted it all wheel drive what would I need to do? Researching the possibilities of a street hatch.

Any street hatches out there?

whats the difference in preformance. Is a certain engine better than the other for one specific task? Or is one just plain better.

Thanks you thank you. I was going crazy.

Is it really called a "hatch". Or is there a proper name for it? Sick car btw. And what motor are they stocked with? EA82 or EA81. Is 4wd a swap?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KwOudZJoQxs&NR please help me, no amount of google can help me! thanks.

the peugeot 505 has a form as a deisel 4x4 wagon. Looks cool actualy.

Heres the easiest way to do this: (unplug negative lead of battery) Have head unit ready. Have head unit/vehicle specific wire harness. Have head unit/vehicle specific trim adapter. (harness and trim adapter will be available where you bought the head unit) Removing stock unit is simple and straight forward. 1. Remove surrounding stock trim. 2. Undo the for screws holding the metal tabs on the corners of the device holding stock unit. 3. Pull it out gently. 4. Undo the bolts on side of the "holding" device to free the stock unit. The only thing attaching the stock unit to the car should be the wires now. 5. Undo the existing wire harness at its clip. Undo power, ground, AUX power, and radio connections. (formats varry) Now you have removed the stock head unit. Keep it. To install the new unit: 1. Plug new harness into new after market deck. 2. Plug other end of harness into the half clip from the car. 3. Plug in your radio, power, ground, aux power. (aux power is the power that is always hooked to the deck. Saves your radio setting etc. 4. Line up the deck with the "holding" device. The holes should match up. If they dont drill new ones. Experiment with holes to get the deck the farthest into the dash without getting to close to the heater. 5. Install the aftermarket trim peice(s). To install an amp and sub things get a little trickier. It really depends on what kinda amp you are running. Heres the simple version (this only works if you have a headunit with a sub out feature): Materials: -amp -sub - 5ft ground wire (any resonably thick wire) - 20ft power wire (available at any good hardware store) The sterio companies will gouge you 100 bucks for an amp wiring kit. Its cheap to make. Go to store and purchase 8 - 12 gauge wire. Get about 15 feet of it. - Inline fuse rated for the gauge wire your using. - 10ft min. RCA cables. (red and white) - 15ft speaker wire. - electrical tape 1. place sub and amp in desired location. 2. run ground wire from amp to frame. Or steel part that eventualy gets to the frame. Dont attach unless your sure its grounded. If done wrong will fry your amp and sub. 3. hook power wire and inline fuse together. 4. hook power wire to + battery lead. Secure tight. 5. attach other end of power wire to amp. 6. run RCA cables from amp to the head unit. (only works if you have a subout) 7. Run speaker wire to your sub from amp. Depending on how many channels your amp is, you might need to bridge it. Im not going to get into it. But you can purchase the kit from the store to easily bridge it. Or read on the net how to ghetto do it. Works the same. 8. Secure everything down. Unplug and trim unnessicary lenghts in wires. Allow some slack. Your hooked up. Play with settings on your amp and deck to achieve sound you want. Better sound will come of lower resistance power wire and fatter speaker wire. But its not that nesicary. Amplifing your speakers as well is another great way to increase sound quality and volume. You may experiance interior light dimming. New battery and Alt will cure it. Or a modded pully. Thats the quick and dirty. LAy your wires under the carpet and threw the fire wall and you cant see any of it. Measure twice cut once. Make sure your grounds are secure. If you smell burning, pull the negative off the battery.