Danbob99

This is not correct for all machinists. I work with several in the local area that have manufactured jigs to hold the PHII heads with cam boxes intact. This is why I recommended trying to find someone that is familiar with machining the Subaru head. Dan

As long as a maching shop is familiar with the Subaru head, they will not need to disassemble the cam box. The only reason they do on many other makes is to ensure all valves are closed. This is not necesary on the Subaru heads. So no, they will most likely not need to remove the cam boxes. Just make sure you clean any residual metal shavings out of the head after machining. Dan

The H6 Valve adjustment is due per subaru at 105K for an inspection. They are shim over bucket lifters and use a different size shim than all the 2.5 motors. They are the same size has WRX valve shims. The valves tend to wear tighter and when adjusted I try to leave them on the loose end of the adjustment spec. (to allow for future wear, and overtight valves cause misfires, where as a loosely adjusted valve does not.) Most times the valve adjustment is still within spec at the 105K mark. In my experience most are still withing spec past the 120K point as well. Dan

The SOHC engine heads can certainly be removed with the cam boxes and cams still installed. I would actually recommend leaving them on. It's a pretty lengthy process to take them apart and clean all the silicone. If you do have them apart though, the manual outlines an incorrect procedure for resealing the cam box to the head. You need to run sealant all the way to the cam journal (the fsm has you stop 1/8" short of the cam journal) Anyways, you can leave them on, and I would recommend doing so. Dan

The o-ring on the compressor are real common leak points. The condensor is another real common leaker (Sounds like that has been replaced though.) If the compressor is cycling still, but you are getting warm air it is likely very low on refrigerant. You could also have a plugged expasion valve if it is not cooling properly with a full charge. Check the charge on it and report back!

The engine is a single cam motor, under the slow rpm of cranking it is pretty unlikely that you would interfere valve to pistion. A new timing belt install will certainly tell the tale. As far as timing marks, there is a mark on each cam, on the right side of the motor (passenger side) Line up the mark to the crack between the cam case and the head. On the passenger side there is a small tick at the top of the inner timing belt cover. I generally use the marks on the new belt and align them with the cam and crank marks exclusively. If those are lined up right, the belt is on. If you need to pull the heads, it is a bit tougher to do in car, but if you don't have the ability to pull the motor, it is certainly do-able. Remove the intake manifold Remove the exhaust manifold. Undo the engine mount bolts so you can jack up the motor on one side and cock it sideways, to make getting to the headbolts easier. You do not have to do this, but it makes work a lot easier. Pull the heads, replace damaged valves. While doing your timing belt, be sure to check your timing belt tensioner to be sure that wasn't the source of your broken belt. Dan

Stick with the factory plulgs and wires. I've had nothing but problems with aftermarkets on these cars and the factory stuff performs very well. The Forester has the same motor as the 2.5RS so there are plenty of aftermarket options available. I.e. Cold air intake, or KN drop in filter, Light weight crank pully, etc.(Not everything cross polinates, so do your research before buying) Exhaust stuff will likely be a bit different, but thats another option. Subaru has tons of optional stuff for those cars that is often still available for interior modification and exterior accesories. (Floor mats, shift knobs, high rise center console, etc) Dan

It could be an O2 sensor. I've seen a few fail on those. And it could cause an intermittent hesitation and lacking gas mileage. On the other hand, there are also many hundreds of different options for the check engine light to come on, many that can cause similar symptoms. The Genuine Subaru Replacment sensor for your model is just shy of $200. Add $150 or so to install and diagnose the failure. This is assuming that is the problem. Dan

Excellent. EA81 Tie Rod end it is. I thank you for your quick response. Dan

Hey guys, I've searched extensively, but not been able to find any affirmitive results on this. I recently swapped over some Impreza knuckles, brakes, hubs etc. onto my 89 GL, wich I had previoulsy done a 5-lug swap on, using XT6 front end stuff. After getting it all assembled my toe is waaay out. So, I cranked it in, but at the limit of adjustment, i've still got another 1/2" to go on either side. Thus, I need to find some shorter outer Tie-Rod ends. Whats in there now i'm pretty sure are XT6 ends wich measure 6" exactly from the outer end of the ball joint to the inner end, not including the stop nut. Any one know which ends might be shorter? Mind making a few quick measurments for me? Thanks! Dan

Sounds like its just a bulb on its way out. Not uncommon to have a bulb with an intermitent filiment connection. It isn't too bad to get to the bulb, it'll either take a few more joints in your fingers or a bit of dissasembaly. Once the center bezel is off i've been able to change the bulb at that point, but it takes some articulation. The bulb is on the drivers side, directly underneath the shift indicator pattern. Its a '194' bulb in a twist in socket. To get to it, remove the center bezel, then the four screws that hold the whole unit to the floor, the two small screws that hold the shifter to the shaft, and pull it up. You'll notice imediately that your still tethered to the car by a red electrical wire, thats the wire to the bulb. Just follow it to the socket, twist left, and out comes the bulb. Make sure the wires are all intact and the socket is undamaged.

If there is movement when you move the tire top and bottom it is likely not the steering rack. Steering racks will show movement when the tire is moved side to side. It is more likely a wheel bearing or hub if you have top to bottom wheel play. I wouldn't go playing with the tension on the steering rack, if it has play in the gear drive, you should replace the rack. I'd be sure it is not play in the inner tie rod ends first though, this is fairly common. I've also seen many issues with strut top nuts making noise after changing struts. They can be challenging to get fully tight when off the car. Easy enough to double check in the car, and a lot easier to get tight once installed. Hope this helps. Let me know what you find! Dan

Check the fluid level. How much you needed to put in can vary on how much got drained out. A normal drain and fill takes about 3.9 quarts. Your 5 liters (about 5.3 quarts) is quite a bit of fluid. Dan

If the coolant level is always full and you are still getting an overheat condition, it pretty well narrows it down to cooling system components. (rules out headgaskets and other leaks) I would check the radiator, see if it's devolping any hot spots accross the surface of it. Feel to see that it blows warm air when the cooling fans are kicked on. Check to see that the cooling fans are indeed kicking on. Let them come on at idle and monitor how long they stay on for. Should be around 30 seconds. (make sure your defrost and ac are off) Lastly, you could have water pump issues. I've seen impellers seperate from the shaft of the water pump, but this is a real rare issue. Report back with your findings! Good Luck, Dan