Danbob99

i've got a fwd switch i rigged up on my car, seems to work just fine, i figure as long as i only leave it in fwd for short periods of time i'm not going to to drain the atf out of the clutches that put it into awd, think thats what mike was telling me could happen... but yea, it works just fine for me...i don't see a problem running it for short periods of time, i don't know about running it for months at a time like that though.

thats probably what it is, i recomend tappin (don't beat it!) some of the heat shields on your exaust with a lil hammer or something to find whats loose, then put a wood screw or something in there to keep it all in place

i spent quite a while on the phone with a couple interior shops around here, i ended up with a really cool guy, even offered to have me do a job shadow! but, the phrase he gave me was that it should look like its "never been touched" like, no blemishes, no runs, no streaks, absolutley perfect, like it could have come from the factory that way, except not quite:) sound good to you guys?

okay, i'm going to try this a diffrent way.... i'm planning on doing some work on the interior of my car aswell for my sr. proj. i need standards for a good interior what do you consider to be a high quality job? i'm having trouble wraping my head around the concept, i need to find specific standards to use. "looks good" "apealing" aren't the kinda standards i can use, but i'm not sure how to word out the realy technichal kinda standards, cuz i don't know what they are! Thanks for your help Dan

Okay, i go to Tereace high, up here in north seattle, and we do this Senior project our senior year. We gotta choose a project of our choice, and do it. So, of course, i chose to do some work on my car, more specificaly my engine. now my problem, i need a set of specific standards to measure the final product by. I've chosen to try to get it to be as close to stock numbers as possible, if not higher. sooo, any one got the factory specs on the hp, tourque, weight, or anything else like that that i could use for the project? real numbers...not the ones listed on autotrader Thanks alot oh P.S. any suggestions for my project would be awesome...i'm open to anyhting you might want to throw out there for me.

so you say you got your head gaskets done in 1.5 hours? Thats pretty fast for doin a whole head gasket job.

man, i could use one that has the Awd turbo lettering on it, i've seen them on the backs of some of the turbo wagons like mine, not sure why i don't have one.

why don't you just wire your heater fan to a switch so it turns on when you flip the switch, w/o the heater

It finally happened, i blew my headgaskets (note the previous thread i had) i knew it had to happen sometime though So yesterday i took the day off of school and work, and brought my car into the shop, thanks to my boss' generosity, and tore out the engine. Took me about 4 hours to get the engine out, and another 4 to tear it down on the engine stand. At first light it only appeared to be that my head gaskets were, and had been, blown for long enough to screw themselves up pretty badly. But, after running the heads through the parts washer a couple of times, it was soon apparent that i had some very ugly, very large cracks in the exaust ports of the right side head. my left side head looked alright in the exaust port area, but terrible in between the valves, 2 very large cracks in just one side! I'm taking the heads down to a place in kent called heads up to have them re-manufactured, my price through them is going to be about 195 a head, so nearing 400 total, plus another 200 or so to re-do all of the seals on the engine. sure hope my cars worth all this! So any thing else i should do while i'm in there? i got a wee bit o money left after all this, but hey, if i'm going to be flat broke, my car might as well be running good.

well, thats no good, any one got na extra car for me to drive? :-p Thanks for the conformation guys! Tex...got some extra time this week?

yes yes, jay, it was you, and thanks, i probably would have just disregarded it as some one else, but yea. I can't run the car w/o the rad cap, its like old faithful, it just spews. Thanks again Dan

no no no, i know exactly where its leaking from. It's leaking from the coolant resevour bottle, it gets too full and starts to leak out of that. this morning after driving the car for a lil while, on an almost empty resevouir (i poured some out) and a full radiator ( i filled it up) i ended up with the same scenario. and, to my disapointment, i found bubbles in the resevoir, looked like a carbonated drink bubbling like it was, you know the little bubbles that rise through the drink. I'm not likin this, i'm thinkin my head gaskets are finaly toastied, just looking for a lil bit of verification. Thanks Dan

Well, if you ask the subaru dealerships, they'll probably throw a cool litlte blue bottle at you that has funny red fluid with white speckles. They call it their cooling system conditioner, and its made to (from speculation at the shop) either keep your engine cooler or act as a block sealer of sorts. Didn't do any good at all on my car, but my car isn't in the recomended range of cars they suggest using it on. Might be worth a shot. You'll have to refrence this one, but there are diffrent leaking points betwen the phase one and phase 2. one leaks internaly, the other externaly, i'm not sure which is which off the top of my head. but yea, just keep an eye of your temp gauge, and don't sweat it too much, i've seen them over 180k miles and stock head gaskets, you might get lucky, never now. Hope for the best, plan for the worst.

eh, i'd go with the whole 4wd tank idear, i've had the same problem with my car; and in asking around the shop, its common. Your gauge will lie to you the most of anything, the little light will come on when you have just about 2 gallons left in your car. they do that as a saftey freature to preserve the life of your fuel pump. its bad to run your car completly out of gas for several reasons. One, the fuel pump uses gas to lubricate itself, and running it out of gas forces it to turn un libricated, causeing excesive wear. And two, this is true especialy if you use arco gas, there is all sorts of crap in the bottom of your tank that you suck up when you burn that last half gallon or so. but yea, guess this wasn't so much about fuel tank sizes, but this just reminded me of that.

well, today, after a lil bit of freeway driving, bout 20 min or so, i pulled into a parking lot to grab a bite to eat, and come back to see a puddle under my car. First thoughts, "hmm...poor guy that was here before me must have been leaking coolant." but, at closer inspection, it was me. sooo, i pop the hood to find that my overflow bottle was absolutley full to the brim, wich was were i was leaking from. In feeling my upper radiator hose i found it was very soft, no presure to it. Drove it real nice and soft for the rest of the way home, and in checking it at home, i wasn't leaking any more, but the coolant level hadn't mooved in the reseviour, pressure was back in the hoses though also. i've felt no diffrence in the power of the car, temp gauge is right were it should be, not to hot. but i did get a lil bit of a burning coolant smell inside, nothing increadibly new, but stronger than usual. Sooo, i've got a couple suspicions, but figured i'd ask if any one has had a similar problem so i can try and by pass the trouble shooting stage here. my thoughts...thermostat? too much cooling sys pressure.....head gaskets! ooo i hope not....(this car still has stock heads and head gaskets at only 89k miles, normal time to do head gaskets on a turbo is....?) well, thanks alot Dan

Is it alright if one of my freinds comes down with us as well? He's driving a 94' mustang gt (5.0) wants to know what it'll throw down in the quarter mile. Oh. btw, i'll throw the camera in the car for when we go down there, get this stuff on tape. Talk to you later Dan

i'm there! don't know about racing my car, i'm a lil bit short on cash lately, but i'd sure love to watch!

sorry bout the late notice, but i'll be there. i can show off my shiny new intake then... but yea, i'll see you guys there, sounds like a good time. Matt, gimme a call that morning, or near that time, mabey we can go down together, havn't talked to you in a while.

so have you had it tuned at all yet? you ever think about doin something with your cats to increase flow, even more than you have now? oh and don't forget...you still owe me a ride! btw, i got my new brakes! they are sweet.

sorry, by that last one i was trying to see if there was anything it could damage, like sealing up on the valves themselves.

so is there any chance of it sealing up around the valves? since water is getting in there anyways? sorry if i keep buggin about this, but if i'm considering using it, i don't want to worsen anything, i can't quite afford to fix it yet. thanks Dan

so how exactly does this stuf work? does it just bond to the crack there? why wouldn't it bind up everything else then? Is it triggered by being in the cylinder during detenation or something along those lines? instantly crystalize at the time of ignition? any one got a website or a link to it? this is good stuff, and i got cracked heads, so anything that could fix this problem i would be eternaly greatful for! thanks

well, the pads on that last site don't go down to the 89's wich is too bad, the aftermarket for these cars is a total pile of crap, i think we need to start our own usmb subaru performance part manufacturing company, bet we could make alot of money that way:D but yea, i have access to the dealership pads, at cost, for 50$, so is that going to be a better deal than others, say from bow wow? from what i hear, the oem's are pretty dang good, i havn't had experience iwth them before though, any one on here ever had any? oh, and tires, what benifits do the 195's bring? if any? Thanks again, Dan

what car are you driving? is it the crack between the vlaves? or some where else on the head?

yea, it'll be 2 lil screws, little screws! not the biggie bolts in there, those are for the entire disty, you just want to pull the cap, and turn the engine, in whatever manner you like (wrench on crank, or by key) to see that the rotor spins just fine. This is cuz the drivers side cam turns the disty, so if your belt is off, it won't turn.