CIS Subaru

Jim, can you lift the shifter vertically? If so, your problem is likely that the rubber block that attaches the linkage assy. to the body has separated. I've had this happen on a few of my 2wds.

This sounds suspiciously similar to a problem I had with my CIS project. I never totally diagnosed it, but advancing the timing seemed to get rid of it. More specifically, when I first got my CIS injected EA82 running, it would pop just like you describe. It would do this mostly when starting to move from a stopped position (throttle open wide, low rpm). I found that if I set the timing around 15 BTDC, the popping happened less and I got more power. 20 degrees gave great low-end power and virtually eliminated the popping, but caused detonation at higher rpm. I now have my timing set somewhere around 13 degrees, and the popping just gradually stopped after about 1000 miles. I'm guessing it could have been related to my hacked PCV system or the custom work I did on the heads. I'm pretty sure that if I put the timing back to 8 degrees it will lose power and start popping again.

Thanks Shawn. "about 9 inches" is what I wanted to know. Since I'm putting this into a Hatchback, I can't use the EA82 driveshaft either. I was hoping that the difference in tranny lengths would work out to the 3.6" difference in wheelbase between the Hatchbacks and Wagons/Brats, but it sounds like it's not even close.

On my EA81T, I plan to use an XT6 flywheel. Like Miles said, the flywheels are centered by the crankshaft, not the bolts. The XT6 flywheel is lighter too.

I have an EA81T sitting in my garage. They have MPFI, but the heads have the same type of intake port as the carbed models. The EA81T has its fuel injectors IN the heads instead of in the intake manifold like the EA82T.

What is the difference in length between an EA82 FT4wd 5spd (single or dual-range) tranny and an EA81 4wd 4spd tranny?? I know that the 4spd is longer, but by how much? I need to know because I plan to eventually put a FT4wd 5spd into my EA81 Hatchback, and I was curious to know if by some miracle of coincidence a Brat/Wagon driveshaft would be the right length. I'll most likely just need to get a custom shaft made, but I thought this idea would be worth checking into first.

EA82T has 2 intake ports in each head, while EA81T only has one in each head. So they don't swap at all. I imagine that you could make an EA82 SPFI intake work on a EA81T without too much trouble, but I doubt you'd want to. Not sure on the injectors... they're probably the same.

I thought I remembered someone saying they held a gen3 head next to a gen1 and could SEE more material in the exhaust port crack area. Did I dream this up? (wouldn't be the first time):-\

Yeah, it frightened me too the first time I saw how easy it is to remove the switch from the lock assembly. Thankfully the steering lock stays on (though I'm sure it's not too hard to get past either).

Yes it will fit, but it takes some modifications to get it to in. Someone here put one of those into a car like yours, but never worked out the injection system to get it running. Others have succesfully put them into Brats.

I know exactly what you're talking about. Sadly, I can't remember whether they were check valves or dampers, but they are definitely one of those two things. In fact, it almost seems like there are three of them in the system and two were one thing and one was the other. I doubt I could get much more vague if I tried, but hopefully that helps.

Yes, non-A/C cars had a dual pulley on the alternator. You can just swap pulleys... the alt. is the same. From what I've seen, the non-PS EA82 cars are rare. I think PS was standard on most GL models, and I see it on alot of DLs too. If you're talking about the PCV hoses, you should be able to find suitable replacements at any parts store.

Rather than mess with an oil pressure switch, I'd just get a real fuel pump relay from a junkyard car if you want a safety shutoff. I used one from a VW Rabbit in my CIS conversion. I can tell you what to look for and give you the pin-outs for it if you want. Most carbed 4wd EA81 cars have the FP relay just in front of the drivers door near the hood release. It's a black box with a 6 terminal connector. I can give you the pin-outs for this too.

I would think you'd want to swap steering gears! Steering a non-powered PS car is much harder than steering a non-PS car.

Feel free to use that pic whenever/wherever you want. I just thought it might be handy the next time someone wants to attach an EA71 to an EA81 tranny, or doesn't know the difference between the bellhousings.

Here's a pic I took when I had this unique opportunity.

Check out my picture gallery from my CIS conversion: http://usmb.net/repair/cis/gallery.htm You can get the tranny bracket and dogbone from any year XT, but it may need to have the same type of tranny as your car (auto/manual). You will also need the shorter throttle cable from an XT with the spider intake. If you can't find one, I think I know where I can get one and sell it to you. As for the crank pulley, you really just need the little timing mark plate that bolts onto the water pump. You can then paint your own TDC mark on your crank pulley. I say this because many (most?) XTs use ribbed belts instead of V-belts.

Yeah, it was a real beauty. It has become pretty filthy lately, so I need to get back in there and scrub some more. I hadn't exactly rebuilt it... just put different heads on it, and scrubbed alot with Purple Power degreaser. I hate working with dirty parts.

I believe we only got them in the US in 1989. Just that one year. Elsewhere in the world, they had them for several other years.

As you can see, it's a two-piece bracket. In this view: you can see that the non-A/C setup used a double pulley on the alternator. If you run only one belt, and keep the belt-driven radiator fan, then you risk having the belt slip on the water pump pulley. Such slippage can easily lead to overheating. Personally, I'm not overly pleased with the setup I have because it uses the alternator to tension both belts at the same time. It is therefore impossible to get them equally tensioned. Another tip for A/C removal: Pull the evaporator core out from under your dash. You can either replace it with the piece used in non-A/C cars, or you can just remove it from its housing, plug off the holes that the lines ran through, and re-install just the housing. When I did this, I found that my evaporator core was largely plugged up with dirt. Eliminating it has increased the airflow through my heater dramatically. I no longer freeze in the winter, and actually get enough airflow to help cool me in the summer.

Here's a pic from my CIS project. It shows a pretty good view of the non-A/C alternator bracket I used (painted black).

For safety's sake, I'd replace the rubber hose sections with the stronger FI hose. I also agree that your stock hard lines should be fine. As stated above, I'll be using new hard lines in my project because I need them to go a different route, and be able to handle a constant 80-90 psi.

What year?

I was told that tranny oil coolers weren't meant to operate under as much pressure as engine oil coolers. Anyone agree/disagree? When I bought my EA81T engine, the junkyard wanted to charge me extra for the oil cooler, so I left it behind. Since then, I've been looking for a good alternative. I looked at a Volvo unit, and they are a good bit larger than the factory EA81T units. I think that's what I'll use. What type of hose are you guys using to connect your oil coolers?

That seems like excellent advice, Adam. I had already planned to replace the hard lines for my next CIS project since I'll need them both to be entirely on the passenger side. I'm going for a more "factory" look this time, so I'll be putting the fuel pump under the car where it belongs. I was also concerned about the outlet size of the carbed tank. I'm putting this into an EA81 Hatchback, so a FI tank is not an option. A surge tank would fix this, since it reduces fuel flow in/out of the main tank, but I doubt I'll have room for one under the car. So your idea for an enlarged output sounds pretty good.