CIS Subaru

I'd be willing to bet that all 4cyl Subarus (boxers) have the same firing order. I worked it out one time, and there are only two physically possible firing orders for a horizontally opposed 4 cylinder engine: 1-3-2-4 and its reverse 1-4-2-3. Anything else would require all of the pistons to move the same direction at the same time, and that would NOT make for a very smooth engine!!

Just a bit of trivia here: The 1600 can also be found is some '86 and '87 2wd GL Hatchbacks in the USA. I've seen two of these cars, and my '85-'89 factory parts manual confirms their existence.

I second what Miles just said.

I have '82 Wagon seats in my Hatchback. Even though I don't have the little foot lever, I did swap the "frame" section on the passenger seat so it still slides forward when tilted forward.

I'm pretty sure that a GL-5 was just a GL with a 5-spd. There were also DL-5 cars which were... you guessed it, DLs with 5-spds. For instance, I own an "1800 DL Automatic". It has that whole name on the badge. I guess anything that wasn't a plain vanilla 4-spd was considered noteworthy in the early years.

I suppose I oughta speak up here, eh? Here's my take on all this. For an EA82, CIS was really a pretty easy swap (technically CIS-E for me). MPFI heads are pretty easy to find for an EA82, and everything else fell into place pretty well. The only wires I had to cut on the VW harness were the two power supply wires, and the only sensor I had to install was the O2 sensor since I used my existing Subaru MPFI coolant temp sensor. Putting CIS on an EA81T would be almost exactly like putting it on a MPFI EA82, but putting it on a normal EA81 would be quite a bit more difficult. Still, I believe it would be entirely possible for some brave and creative soul to accomplish. My vision of how to do this is as follows: A 3/8" hole would have to be drilled above each intake valve in the intake passages of the heads for the tips of the injectors to poke through. Then Subaru front axle nuts would need to be attached to the heads, centered on each injector hole. From what I've heard, I think JB-Weld would do a good job of adhering the steel nuts to the aluminum heads, and would provide the necessary air/fuel tight seal between the head and the nut. Tada we now have MPFI heads. From there, the VW injector holders thread into the axle nuts and the injectors just pop into place. The rest of the job is virtually identical to the swap I did on my EA82. If you don't like to make permanent mods that don't just bolt-on, then I can certainly see the benefits of the SPFI system. I just don't like the idea of the fuel and ignition BOTH being controlled by a computer that I have no control over. That, and I don't like all the integrated emissions control junk that comes with SPFI. One last thing I wanted to mention is a fabulous invention called a surge tank. No matter what injection swap you're planning, I highly recommend using one. All it is is a "buffer" of sorts that allows you to use your existing fuel pump and lines in combination with the fuel injection pump. My VW Fox fuel pump came with one attached because Foxes use a two-pump system from the factory. Here's how it works: A low-pressure pump pumps fuel from the large main tank into the small surge tank. The high pressure pump then pumps that fuel to the injection system. The return line from the injection system goes back to the surge tank so that the high pressure pump can recirculate the fuel again rather than requiring the low-pressure pump to fully keep up with its demands. A low-pressure return line is then run from the top of the surge tank back to the main tank so that the excess fuel pumped in by the low-pressure pump can escape. As long as the low pressure pump can keep up with the volume of fuel actually being consumed by your engine, then this system will always work regardless of the demands of the high-pressure pump. This system allowed me to mount my high-pressure pump in the spare tire area so that I had very little high-pressure line to run, and required no mods to my factory lines.

Wow. That is slightly disturbing. I just looked in my parts book, and it appears to be part# 32613 AA010 or 44190 7020"shifting insert" I don't know much about trannies, but it looks like this thing is one of three that fit into slots in a synchro "hub" and catch on a synchro "sleeve". In any case, it is obviously not supposed to be floating around inside your tranny.

I've had this same problem with a couple of my cars that sat for a long time. Sadly, only one of them was ever "cured" and I don't know what I did to fix it. You may find that your "low gas" warning light still works even if the gauge doesn't. After driving my car for a few weeks, and always filling the tank completely full, the gauge just started working on its own. I suggest cleaning the contacts where the sender plugs into the harness and just drive it for a while. I do not suggest trying to pull the sender out of the tank. I tried that once, and ended up with quite a mess. The sender is held on by a bunch of tiny studs that protrude through a flange that is welded onto the tank. There is no real way to replace them if they break, as they were positioned in the flange before the flange was welded on at the factory. I ended up cutting slots in the edge of the flange on mine so that I could slide bolts in, but if I had it to do over, I probably wouldn't have tried to remove the sender in the first place.

I've had a couple GL-10 cars, and have seen several in junkyards. Though most of the GL-10 goodies were options on GLs or other cars, if a car has all of the following, it tells me that car is a GL-10 (at least for EA82 cars): - Upgraded interior (height adjustable driver's seat, fold-down rear seat in sedans, rear headrests in wagons, cloth headliner) - Digital Dash with Trip Computer - Gravel Guards in front of the rear wheels. - Blackout trim panel between tail lights on sedans. - Power Windows, Power Mirrors, Power Locks. I've never seen an EA82 GL-10 without ALL of those things. Most have other options as well, but they all start with those basics.

That valve setup you describe is only correct for EA71, EA81 single carb, and EA81 Turbo engines. The EA82 and EA81 dual-carb engines use the opposite setup.

also http://www.ackerwheels.com

To answer your question about the CIS-E system... I'm planning to do a VERY similar project. I'm going to be putting an EA81T into my '80 Hatchback (same engine bay as your Brat). I'm going to be using the CIS-E system for this swap. It is my belief that CIS-E will have no problems keeping up with stock boost levels. I also believe that it would only take a small amount of tuning to make it work at higher boost levels. I should mention that CIS-E will only work if you have a stand-alone ignition system. I believe that '85-'86 EA82T cars had this, but I know for sure that the '87+ EA82T cars did not. Whether you go with CIS-E or stock ECU, you're in for a whopper of a job. I agree with Miles that you should get the wiring harness finished first while you can still drive the car. It will certainly be the most tedious part of the job. Other problematic spots will be your fuel pump, airbox/battery location, and radiator fan clearance... and those will be problems with either fuel system.

Marnix, correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought your Leone was powered by an EA71! (even though it's the body style that only came with the EA82 in the US)

My parts book indicates that you are in luck. It shows the same pump shaft for 2wd and 4wd 3spd autos.

Trying for something like this?? http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/subaru/1/WagoBrat Up until last year, that car was owned by the owner of the oldest Subaru dealership in central Ohio. He kept it in a barn and only drove it for events and parades. Apparently, it arrived at the dealership with damage to the rear roof, so he had someone do a custom job on the top for him. Then somehow it ended up on this used car lot almost 17 years later with something like 30,000 miles on it.

The 2-round headlight setup came on the following: all '80-'89 STD Hatchbacks (all STDs were Hatchbacks) '80 2wd DL Sedans, Coupes, and Wagons all '81 DL models I think the '70s cars and Gen I Brats had a 2-round setup, but I don't know the years/models for those.

Somewhere I've got a scan of the instruction sheet that came with the factory a/c install kit that's in my '80 Hatchback. It looks pretty involved. If I can find it, I'll post it for you.

The reason that project got stalled is that I bit off too much. I was trying to use an AWD 5-spd in a 2wd car. The tranny tunnel is not big enough. No, that is not going to have CIS. The EJ engines have distributorless ignition, and CIS only manages the fuel injection. That engine is the original motor out of this '97 Impreza: http://www.demeis.com/motorsport/hardware/wrxstory.html I got the computer and all sensors with it. I looked into making an adapter plate much as you suggested, but the plate isn't as much of a problem as the flywheel. The EA flywheels use a smaller bolt pattern at the crankshaft. It didn't seem worth it anymore to go through the trouble of modifying the flywheel and making an adapter plate just to mate an engine to a tranny that couldn't handle the power in the first place. I decided to switch back to the AWD 5spd, but none of it will happen until I get done with my CIS Turbo Hatchback project.

I just about went crazy trying to figure out my "no spark" condition on my '88 Wagon. I ended up blaming it on a wiring problem and converted my engine to use CIS fuel injection (see link below if interested). I did learn a little bit about the ignition systems on the SPFI cars, so I'll share with you. These cars use an optical pickup, crank-angle sensing distributor. The spark advance is controlled by the fuel injection computer. There is a very small igniter module built into the coil mounting bracket. So, if you're not getting spark, it must be a problem with either the coil, the igniter, the distributor, the computer, or the wires in between them. I'd suspect the igniter or the coil at this point. You should also check that you have 12V at the + terminal of the coil when the key is on. If not, try jumpering power to it and see if it runs.

All of the 3spd auto transmissions from '83 on came with these "locking" torque converters. Honestly, I'm not entirely clear on how they work, but there's a big write-up on them in my '83 FSM. If I get a chance, I'll scan it for you.

I asked Kennedy and they told me that the EA series trannies aren't strong enough to make it worth their while to make such an adapter. They told me to just use an EJ tranny.

I gamma corrected the picture, and it's definitely a 2wd. There's no brace bar under the front bumper, and the plastic bumper sides are the fat 2wd ones. It also appears to have a 3rd brake light which verifies that it's an '86 or newer car. Now for the interesting stuff. It's possible that it could have an EA71 engine!! In '86 and '87 they made some 1.6L 2wd 5spd GL Hatchbacks. The EA71 engine never had hydraulic lifters. If it has an EA81, you can easily see if it has hydraulic lifters by looking at the valve covers. The hydraulic lifter engines have stickers on the valve covers that say not to adjust the valves. It has recently come to my attention that models with different transmissions came with different transmission tunnels in the floor, so I would only try to do a 4wd swap on it if it has an automatic transmission. The 2wd manual models had a smaller tranny tunnel that would need beaten out to accomodate a 4wd tranny.

I assume this is on the '86 GL-10?? If so, it seems that the '85-'86 LCD digi-dashes had a problem with the solder joints for the fuel and temp gauges. I fixed my temp gauge by pulling the cluster and holding a soldering iron on the temp sender pin on the back. I sold the car soon after, so I'm not sure how long the fix lasted. Naturally, the correct solution would be to tear the cluster apart and properly solder the pins, but that would be quite a large job. You might consider swapping an '87+ LED digi-dash in its place as they are much more reliable, but I don't know if the wiring would be the same or not.

No. The '83+ EA81 automatics (2wd and 4wd) had a different bellhousing to accomodate the larger "locking" torque converter. ("Locking" because it incorporates centrifugal clutches.) From what I've seen, the '83+ EA81 auto trannies use (visually) the same torque converter as the EA82 cars. No grinding should be needed here since your '85 Hatch should already have the correct bellhousing.

Actually... I was working on just such a swap last year. I didn't get to finish it, but here's what I learned: (The following notes assume the use of an EJ22 transmission.) -If you use an EJ22 transmission, you'll need to use custom modified front axles. You'll also need to make a custom transmission crossmember to mount it in the car. I ran into tranny tunnel clearance issues, but I think that's just because I was using a 2wd chassis. -The engine will drop right in. You may want to slot-out the engine mount holes in the crossmember for a better fit for the EJ22 engine mounts. -There is acceptable clearance with the frame rails. The only spot it even gets close is the #4 cylinder area, but it's still not a problem. I've seen 2 people's cars with EA82 engines in them and no frame mods, and the EA82 is even wider than the EJ22. -There is clearance for the stock radiator. You might need to use a slim-line fan, or a push-type fan mounted on the other side. Check out the pics I took at: http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/subaru/1/ChemX/V1/ Someone on the board says they can make an adapter to mount an EJ22 onto an EA81/EA82 transmission. This involves a modified flywheel as well. I believe that the use of this adapter pushes the engine forward, so this application may require moving the radiator.