nkx

i think hed be belching black smoke from the tailpipe if he had a boost leak. but he said hes making 10 psi. what about a clogged cat?

0.8 liters iirc. i bought some of the redline 75w95. its around $8 a quart from summit.

Eta?

WD40 and duct tape are staples of rigging stuff around here.

if you were closer id go. the buggy isnt real good for crawling, but it loves dirt and gravel roads! traveling in groups is always a good idea incase something breaks, someone gets stuck, accident, etc... come down to carlisle for the import/kit-car show this year and ill take you into the mountains.

if its the hose from hell, youll probably have a small puddle of coolant laying on top of the pass side of the block. it likes to pool in a small cranny near the EA82 stamping. when you noticed it leaking, was the engine running or not?

[LOTR]ahhhh.... my preciousss! hisssss....mussssst have my preciousssss![/LOTR]

what about the rears? xt also?

i dont want to slam it, just lower it a little bit so it handles better. right now its like driving a freakin truck, not good when youre goin for a race car. :-\

EA81 is the pushrod 1.8 subaru motor found in 80-84. (correct me if im wrong folks, maybe it was offered earlier?) EA82 is the SOHC 1.8 motor that subarian mentioned. just remember that and what type of fueling system you have, and youll get pretty far at auto parts desks.

ok, im thinking of workin on the suspension this winter. im gonna go with 2wd loyale springs and kyb struts to get the ride height down. i want to put on an xt RSB also, but thats the major hang up since my 89 t-wagon didnt come with a rear sway bar to start with. exactly what do i need to get to bolt everything into place? RSB (duh) some sort of endlinks brackets to tie rsb to body trailing arms (no idea what they are, just know they have to do with the RSB/suspension) rear swing arms other stuff i dont know about

i dont know about the xt, but the xt6 TB is bigger.

i could be wrong because im not familiar with TT subarus (we dont have them in the states) but you might have to run 2 bovs, which is probably going to be expensive. does it have 2 TBs? and does the car use a MAF (or 2)? if so, youre probably just better off sticking with the oem recirc valves.

thats a good point, basher. what i want to do is reinforce the tops of the strut towers so they can take more abuse so i can go jump the buggy

should be, but i think it would be overkill for the NA motors unless youre running crazy compression or maybe a lot of nitrous.

correct you are, the clutch is cable actuated. try pop starting it again with the ignition on if you cant get a charge from a good battery. i dont see how pop starting the car with the ign off would do anything except wear stuff out.

WOW! that is gorgeous! looks like a lot of time and effort were put into the welds alone. great job

ditto, i think the only difference is the plastic trim.

a $5 1/2" drive 12" breaker bar and a 3' long piece of 1x1 box steel will coherce pretty much any bolt out with little effort on your part.

im just sayin its one less piece to soak up bumps, jumps, and what have you... ie: rally

white smoke is water/coolant!

im guessing those make the car ride really hard... :-\

i have a spare turbo off of my old parts car. the wastegate actuator hose was plumbed right off the compressor side of the turbo, like in your pic. i dont know what year it was, but it was at least 1987 because it had a hotwire maf.

how much?!?! the website says $299 for a mitsu rebuild...

yeah, thers a gold foil that will say LSD plainly. it will just be open if you dont see the foil. afaik, the LSD was found on RX, gl-10 with fulltime 4wd, and the occasional turbo coupe, like my parts car. i used 75w90. as far as the actual labor, i used a 1/2" torque wrench AND my 3-ton jack to break the plugs loose.