nkx

the brackets are identical. theres no difference between the brackets used in the front or back of the seats, or for driver or passenger. i double checked the application guide on the corbeau website.

the adapter brackets bolt so that they travel the width of the seat (only way they fit on), and the sliders bolt up the length. the mounting points are slightly off-center, so i installed them so that they were as close as possible, and they are still about 3/4" off.

well thats good. at least i know now that im not messing stuff up (yet).

i got a set for Corbeau Forzas and the accompanying adapter brackets. the brackets are just a plain piece of steel a bit wider than the seats are, with 2 holes, and 2 more holes with nuts spot welded on top. so i think to myself, this should be pretty straight forward... not the case! first, the holes to bolt the adapter brackets to the seats werent far enough apart, by about 1/32" or so. no problem, i punched out one hole to 3/8" which gave me just enough room to get the bolts in straight. problem solved. or so i thought. once i got the adapter brackets on what would be the passenger seat, i start to attach the sliders to the brackets. now it turns out that the holes to bolt the brackets to the sliders are spaced farther than stock. now im pissed. i cant drill holes in the sliders to accomodate because there isnt enough material. i cant modify the holes in the brackets because they arent wide enough, and i cant spot weld the nuts on even if they were. the sticker on the brackets clearly states that they are part # A22037 - 85+ GL sedan and wagon. now im hoping that im not stupid for thinking that the seat sliders and whatnot for the GL would be the same as the ones for the GL-10. im going to email the dealer i bought them from and see if theres any known issues with GL-10s, or perhaps a seperate bracket. Have any of you ever had this problem? im hoping that i wont have to get custom brackets fabricated, but im not holding my breath either.

only if you put on a matching WRX vanity plate.

oops... aftermarket shift light.

oh god, ew. i hate the seats in my buggy. corbeau makes adapter brackets that let you bolt in any seat they make. (dont hold me to that, i have yet to actually install my corbeaus, but i dont forsee much manufacturing.)

heh, if it were only so easy!

the parts car i had for a while had a grill like that. it was an ea82t 3-door. i wanted to put the grill on my wagon, but unfortunately that grill was taller than the wagon grill.

i think your best bet with that would be the spray stuff, maybe a piece of dynamat extreme along the inside of the rear quarters.

dynamat is sound insulation. i dynamatted the trunk of my cavalier, and it made my subs sound much louder. it also keeps the buzzing down when the deep bass kicks in. dynamat brand can be a bit pricey, but ill recommend it to anyone. you can buy trunk kits which have sheets of the orginal dynamat and dynamat extreme, individual speaker kits, liscense plate holders, or sometimes you can buy it in bulk (check out car audio shops). they also make a spray type which is good for around the fenders and other shapes that are hard to mold the rubber around.

my shift light blinds me a bit more than my turbo light

im not so familiar with these. is this a permanent install into the brake lines, or is it a tool you put on only when you need to purge your brake fluid?

hmm... whoda thought? im still not real keen on all the tiny little bits and pieces of engines and didnt think of that :-\ . it would be a nice investment if i could find an oil cooler that i wouldnt mangle because of a rock or something in the mountain.

ok, here are stupid questions: where does it go? and what pumps the oil through it?

i was just thinking today that replicating my hood in fiberglass, and widening the hump in the middle would be an excellent way to put my STi scoop on the buggy and shave off a few pounds. unfortunately, i dont have any experience with fiberglass, and im not sure id have the patience to work with it long enough to make something quality. if you think you could help me out, lemme know. i need to put the scoop on around the same time my intercooler goes in. otherwise im installing an interheater, which isnt a good addition to a turbo system.

i would be interested in a set of 4 SMSG wheels if you come across any.

dont forget that when youre boostin, the engine is going to get hotter. the compressor is adding heat when youre under boost, and the whole turbo is spinning at something crazy like 100,000 rpm.

if anyone has a copy of 'maximum boost', theres a section in there that addresses what angle the oil lines should be at. i would quote it, but i dont have it at home right now.

sorry to thread jack... whats this intake like? and how much are you asking?

suberdave made a PVC special: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18129&page=1&pp=10

eh, it just looks like your typical subaru wagon right now, except it has lights on it that look like they belong on a truck.

yesterday, i finally got my $15 walmart jobby foglights and my KC daylighters put on. im really surprised by how much more i can see with those fogs. as far as the KCs go, i havent really had an appropriate place to test them yet.... the bumper was the biggest hang up. a buddy was helping me, so we took it out only to discover that it wasnt really necessary to put the KCs in (doh!) ill have to post a pic or two. those KC lights make the buggy look a little bit more like a rally car now!

the wastegate is the thing that makes the 'woosh' noise when you let off the throttle under boost. it has a hose that connects to one end where a valve/diaphram is housed, which pushes on a small arm to expel exhaust gasses around the turbine (hot side of the turbo). if its stuck open, you wont make any boost because the exhaust isnt flowing through the turbine to spool it up.

hmm.... knowing that, i wish i would have kept the original hood from the buggy, i could at least use parts of it.