nkx

oops!

i cant get the pic page to load right now, but +1 for the soapy water method.

fuel does not go through the turbocharger in a fuel injected system. youre only cooling the air in this situation.

i dont know how the old gen ecus work with this, but on my wrx, there is a point where the ecu ignores the o2 sensor and delivers fuel based on preset maps. (open loop/closed loop)

yes, yes, and YES!

i would tend to think it would lean the afr out. more o2 because the air is now more dense (cooler) than when it was originally compressed.

ditch those stock seats. heavy and uncomforable. get a set of corbeaus ftw! i will try to weigh my wagon as soon as i can. oh, and take out the sunroof if you have one.

ill see if i can get the wagon on a scale sometime soon...

you could always have the new tires shaved to the tread depth of the old tires.

this would fit in the 'product review' forum.

a boost controller cannot make the wastegate open at a level below the stock wastegate spring. in order to 'turn off the turbo' you would have to find a way to keep the wastegate open, as in force it open. you might be able to put a weaker spring in the wastegate diaphram, but im not 100% sure if they are supposed to be user serviceable.

if it aint broke, dont fix it!

i scraped off the majority of the blue stuff with my newly purchased gasket scraper. (yay forethought!) isnt a wire wheel going to mess up the surface of the block?

is there a good chemical solution to get all the gasket off? or the blue crap that was on the gasket, which im guessing was is rtv??

i was surprised to find out i actually own a 22mm socket! yay tool sales!

ok, cool. guess i get to tackle pulling the crank pulley tomorrow.

ok, bumpin a old thread here... i dont have to take the timing covers off to get the WP out, but i do have to remove the crank pulley, correct? and do i have to get a new o-ring for the water inlet tube from the dealer?

i bought a twincore from radiatorbarn.com. havent installed it yet, but it showed up promptly. the website is easy to work with too, none of that 'cyber-mechanic' askin you questions n crap.

get a boost gauge pronto!

im so jealous.... east coast gets no love

bump, because the person hosting probably forgot about the thread being on usmb too.

well i was able to get at the pass. side drain. got a face full of coolant too. am i supposed to have the car running while im pouring water back in?

ok, i checked it out today. theres 3 nuts/bolts, accessed from the engine bay side. undo those, and you should be able to slide the resevoir out without needing to take off the fender.

i bought a new 2 row radiator, so i figure it would be best if flush out all the old coolant and accumulated crap as a preventative measure before i install the new rad. what ive been doing is draining the radiator, filling it back up with distilled water, drive the car for 10 mins or so. park it, wait for it to cool, drain rad, refill with water, etc. is there an easier/faster/better way to do this? should i bother with the drain plugs on the bottom of the block?

i would remove the fender liner first. i think theres 2 bolts holding the tank in. removing the fender itself will provide the most room to work with, but you have to pull the bumper to get the front of the fender off. (which is always PITA in my experience.)